Stihl 260 Pro clutch self disassembly

[User Name Here]

Yesterday my assistant brings in our Stihl 260 pro and says "I think I burnt this thing up". Said he thought that it was making a funny racket and didn't want to run. So I take a look at it after lunch - try to crank it and it fires but immediately dies. I crank it again and it runs and sounds horrible - like it's trying to run with the compression release engaged. I turn it off immediately. I take the clutch cover off and the clutch drum and sprocket fall off in my hand. apparently some how the "E" clip and retainer for the sprocket/clutch has just fell off somehow and let everything go. It toasted the cage bearing and broke 2 clutch springs in the process.

So we have an identical twin in the basement that had been retired, so I go cannibalize it for the clutch assembly, cage bearing, retainer, E clip, etc. I put it all back together and go outside to test run it. Fires right up, sounds great, I rev it a few times and something just ain't right. I engage the chain brake and flip the saw over and I can see the clutch drum dancing around behind the clutch cover. "What the...", I turn it off and remove clutch cover, lo and behold, the e clip and retainer are gone... again. I walk back outside and find them easily enough. Apparently, the e clip had been stretched out or something and was barely holding onto the end of the crank. I checked it on the other saw and it's the same way. I just take my pliers and gently squeeze it further closed and seems to have fixed the issue. If it happens again I'm going to get a new e clip.

I have never seen an E clip get loose but I'm sure it's possible, especially with repeated disassembly. Neither of these saws have been taken apart THAT often to stretch them out. I just thought it was odd the way it happened.

Here is the remains of what I initially found

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I would guess that the technique being used to remove the clip is where the problem lies. I have never heard of such a thing.

 

[Ozhoo]

The 0000 958 1032 washer has a lip in that keeps that from happening... even on worn out e-clips.

 

[User Name Here]

I would guess that the technique being used to remove the clip is where the problem lies. I have never heard of such a thing.

I dare say my technique for removing the clips is just like everyone else's - using the scrench to gently pry the e clip out of the slot while holding a finger on it to keep it from flying halfway across the room. At least that's the way everyone that I've ever seen does it...

The 0000 958 1032 washer has a lip in that keeps that from happening... even on worn out e-clips.

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From the looks of my e clip and retainer - I have the one on the right. After squeezing the ends closed a little it seems to stay on well. Here is the culprit in question:

 

[HarleyT]

Can you take a pic of the rim sprocket? The edge of it, where the drive links engage?

It looks pretty bad from what little I can see of it, but that may just be an illusion.

 

[User Name Here]

It's not real bad - had a lot of cutting on it.

 

[kevin j]

buy a new one or three.
its been stressed beyond yield opening then squeezing closed. might be ok but probably a fatigue crack in the future.
dollars worth clips compared to clutch or case. and have the others in the spares bag. they have a special attraction to snow and leaves covering the ground

 

[67L36Driver]

‘E’ clips have a rounded side and a flat side. From being stamped out of sheet metal.

Install ‘flat’ side out to resist thrust.

 

[User Name Here]

I'm sure it could use a new e clip and I'll likely get one the next time I go to the shop, along with a new cage bearing as well, but it'll do for now no problem.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

‘E’ clips have a rounded side and a flat side. From being stamped out of sheet metal.

Install ‘flat’ side out to resist thrust.

That's right. Few people know this. Same on round circlips.