Cjbuchholz
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey there... stihl 362C cuts great when wood is up against the dogs, doesn't cut worth a darn at the tip end. Any suggestions?
Stihl 362c not cutting at tip for limbing
- Thread starter Cjbuchholz
- Start date
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Type of chain?
rolled out bar rails may need dressed up with a flat file?
Any chance your chain just isn't sharp enough? Does it pull out chips with very little pressure on the bar or do you have to use a lot of pressure with dogs and it still only makes sawdust?
homemade
Certified Chainsaw Tester
Take the rakers down.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Possibly those safety humps on that cheap anti kickback chain, seen lots of that crap on cheap Poulan saws, I don`t know who makes it and don`t care to.
I'm thinking the OP is cutting near the tip while limbing, not doing plunge cuts or using the very tip of the bar. I actually just got one of those anti kickback chains that was on a cheap Poulan, it was badly filed and only a little nub left of the cutter, the safety link seemed to be the same height as the raker. Don't see how it cut anything.
We will never know what he is cutting with without pics, only guess work going on the original post.
If properly sharpened, anti-kickback chain will do bore cuts. But it's significantly slower at those than regular chain. It will make other cuts just as fast.
But I doubt the OP is doing bore cuts. Likely the chain is just dull. You can make up for that by levering the chain into the wood with the dogs. The chain rakers should be lowered using a gauge or after measuring. Don't just do it because the chain is cutting poorly.
But I doubt the OP is doing bore cuts. Likely the chain is just dull. You can make up for that by levering the chain into the wood with the dogs. The chain rakers should be lowered using a gauge or after measuring. Don't just do it because the chain is cutting poorly.
From Oregon: "Kickback is a rapid upward & backward motion of the chain saw that can occur when the moving saw chain, near the upper portion of the tip of the guide bar, contacts an object such as a log or branch." It does this by blocking the cutters from engaging the wood at the radius of the bar tip. You can sure scratch the wood with it. I do not like the term, "Safety Chain". It is too misleading to a novice, giving a false sense of security. I don't know what type of safety chain you are using, but in my limited experience, using safety chain & trying to utilize the bar tip to cut with, is an exercise in futility.
With the Stihl anti kickback chain I have used, bore cuts are about half as fast as with regular Carlton chain. Both sharp.
It cuts fast enough to be doing something and slow enough to make me wonder what's wrong until I remember what kind of chain it is. If I am planning on bore cuts I will use regular chain, but sometimes I wind up doing it when I didn't plan for it.
It cuts fast enough to be doing something and slow enough to make me wonder what's wrong until I remember what kind of chain it is. If I am planning on bore cuts I will use regular chain, but sometimes I wind up doing it when I didn't plan for it.
You can fix a safety chain.
Please excuse the safety gear.
Please excuse the safety gear.
