Kebo57
Retired Engineer MOD, BAE, Paper Mill.
Hi I’m thinking of getting a longer bar for my MS460
& came across the 1.3
& came across the 1.3
stihl guide bar 36" 1.3mm our 1.5mm
- Thread starter Kebo57
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I've often questioned the chain 'gauge' thing before. From my understanding, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, the kerf is the same width between the two gauges. The difference is stouter (thicker) metal is used for the drive links.
Don't know. That's the part I don't understand. My Stihl 038 came with a 0.063 (1.5) B&C not a 0.050 (1.2). And my MS 170 has a 0.043 on it and not a 0.050 which seems easier to come by.
These measurements relate to the thickness of the drive link and typically have nothing to do with the kerf. Post your questions in the chainsaw forum if you want a lively debate over the merits of the various thicknesses.
Ron
The .05 is the thickness of the driver. That number by itself does not indicate the kerf.
For what it's worth, I sometimes have a 3/8", .05, 36" bar on my MS461 for milling and it is just fine. Normally the saw wears a 25" bar of the same 3/8" .05 specs and it too is just fine.
My MS261 uses 3/8" .063 chain... thicker drivers than what the MS461 uses but the kerf is narrower.
My MS170 uses 3/8" .043 and has the narrowest kerf.
You aren't locked into those sizes if you are willing to change the bars and chains, and if you change the spur or rim gear you can change the pitch (i.e., the 3/8" dimension) too. That said, if you are new to chainsaws, sticking with the manufacturer's suggested gauge and pitch is not a bad choice!
For what it is worth, a heavier gauge chain (.063 vs .058, .050) is going to outlast a lighter chain. The thicker steel in the drive link will wear just slightly less than the thinner steel, it will stretch less and break less frequently as a consequence. All other things being equal, it will wobble less in the bar's groove, too.
If being zippy and fast is your only concern, a lighter gauge chain is lighter and will accelerate and decellerate a bit quicker. They are cheaper as well.
I gave up putting .375 pitch chain on my 3120 Husqy many years ago, since the powerful saw frequently broke the chains, and it was a big pain to change the sprocket when converting down to a smaller bar from my 50" bar in .404 chain. So far as I recall, the .404 pitch chain (.063 gauge) has never broken. I didn't keep any .063 gauge .375 chain back then, either.
If being zippy and fast is your only concern, a lighter gauge chain is lighter and will accelerate and decellerate a bit quicker. They are cheaper as well.
I gave up putting .375 pitch chain on my 3120 Husqy many years ago, since the powerful saw frequently broke the chains, and it was a big pain to change the sprocket when converting down to a smaller bar from my 50" bar in .404 chain. So far as I recall, the .404 pitch chain (.063 gauge) has never broken. I didn't keep any .063 gauge .375 chain back then, either.
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