Stihl MS 250's

[anderson3754]

Picked up 2 Ms 250's over the last few weeks. Saw #1 used, but never having fuel or oil put in the tanks. Saw #2 in like new condition used.

Took saw number 2 put fresh fuel and oil in the tanks attempt to start it on full choke after 5-7 pulls no false start, take it off full choke to high idle, pull 15-20 times, will not start. Put it on the work bench pull the plug, it's flooded Hmmm.... Take the Chinese Bosch spark plug and threw it in the garbage can, installed a new NGK and check for spark, nice bright blue, blow out the cylinder with compressed air, reinstall the plug put control lever on choke, 3-5 pulls still no false start. Put the control lever on high idle, pull another 15-20 times nothing. But it back on the work bench pull the plug it's flooded again. Now I am really hacked off. Run compressed air through the cylinder again, blow the plug out, put the plug back in and tried again. This time put control lever on high idle pull 3-4 pulls and starts right up. Reset the carb, the saw really runs nice, shut the saw off and set it aside..

Took saw number 1 put fuel and oil in it and it was a carbon copy of starting saw #2 including throwing the Chinese Bosch plug in the garbage can.

Following morning.......... go to start both saws, same crap all over again. Blow out the cylinder and plug on both saws, reinstall the plug, put control lever on high idle both saws start and run on the second pull, no false start, they just start and run.

The next morning go to start both saws again, put them both on just high idle, pull 2 times and their both running like raped apes, but again no false start.

****I did whole bunch of research and find out the MS 250 is prone to severe flooding on full choke and almost never give a false start, to let you know on the next pull, it will start and run.

Now I own 10 Stihls and a couple of Echo's and Husky's, I know how to start a chainsaw, but never owned MS 250's till now. So the multi million dollar question is what is Stihls problem, and why don't they correct this issue. I have my own ideas on how to modify the chokes so as not to flood them. Both these saws if you put them on full choke for one pull, they are flooded, no false start, and will not start, till you use compressed air to clean out the cylinder and plug.

Let them sit for 12-14 hrs, put them on high idle, pull them 2 maybe 3 times and their off and running, ready to cut wood, never having a false start while pulling the starter cord. Using the choke position to start is a big NO NO.

Okay i'm done venting now.

 

[Crispexx]

Interesting, my friend has a 250 that i used and when I went to start it on full choke it wouldn’t start for me. Took it home to clean and work on it for him (he’s deployed currently) and got it to start right up the next day. So sounds like his does exactly like yours. Wish I knew why! Maybe I’ll find out on your thread.


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[RED-85-Z51]

I worked on a stihl early this year, had the spring assist recoil. Carb pressure checked fine and the saw had maybe 2 tanks thru it total. I fixed the broken recoil and immediately flooded it. Next day.. Flooded it. Then like you i put it on fast idle and pulled once..fired right up. If it sat 2 days or less it needed no choke. If it sat longer..one pull on choke and then choke off and it fired next pull.

Im not a fan

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[anderson3754]

I worked on a stihl early this year, had the spring assist recoil. Carb pressure checked fine and the saw had maybe 2 tanks thru it total. I fixed the broken recoil and immediately flooded it. Next day.. Flooded it. Then like you i put it on fast idle and pulled once..fired right up. If it sat 2 days or less it needed no choke. If it sat longer..one pull on choke and then choke off and it fired next pull.

Im not a fan

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This is not the way a chainsaw is suppose to start. These 2 I just acquired can sit for 3-4 days and all it takes to start them is 3 pulls, maybe 4 pulls on high idle and they just start running, ready to cut wood as if you had been cutting for a 1/2 hr, shut the saw off and restarted it 2 minutes later. For a couple weeks now it has been in the mid 90's and humid. Cold saw 2-4 pulls, no choke and it's running. I feel bad for the guy who insists on starting one of these MS250's the correct way. Hard to believe I can flood both these saws with 1 pull on choke. If it was just one of them I'd probably tear into the carb to see whats wrong, but they both act like identical twins. The used one has a EPA sticker for 2017, and the new one has a EPA sticker of 2019.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

This is not the way a chainsaw is suppose to start. These 2 I just acquired can sit for 3-4 days and all it takes to start them is 3 pulls, maybe 4 pulls on high idle and they just start running, ready to cut wood as if you had been cutting for a 1/2 hr, shut the saw off and restarted it 2 minutes later. For a couple weeks now it has been in the mid 90's and humid. Cold saw 2-4 pulls, no choke and it's running. I feel bad for the guy who insists on starting one of these MS250's the correct way. Hard to believe I can flood both these saws with 1 pull on choke. If it was just one of them I'd probably tear into the carb to see whats wrong, but they both act like identical twins. The used one has a EPA sticker for 2017, and the new one has a EPA sticker of 2019.

Every ms250 ive worked on has been hard to pull but needed choke cold. The one i worked on had the easy 2 start recoil (E)...and acted just like yours

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[anderson3754]

Every ms250 ive worked on has been hard to pull but needed choke cold. The one i worked on had the easy 2 start recoil (E)...and acted just like yours

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Mine have the standard start, traditional start pull cord. They do appear to have a stout compression ratio along with their peculiar starting procedure.

 

[rocketnorton]

been a 230 & a 250 here.
found both to be pretty finicky w/lever setting.
once set, they started normally. new kits in both.

 

[cranman1951]

fixed a 230 this spring and used it for a month....really nice little saw once I got used to the easy start feature.....I learned really quickly to keep away from the choke...other then that, a light little saw that cut well
I'm putting a new piston and cylinder into an almost brand new ms251 this weekend.....I'l be interested to see how this one behaves.

 

[Pioneer]

Have had 2 ms250's. One would on occasion give no false start. The other always gives the false start. Both required only 2 pulls on choke/high idle to get fuel in them before switching to 2nd position and then only 1 pull more to start. Correct idle mixture is essential though, I have mine set so that the saw almost lean stalls after the high idle comes off, and will stall if the ambient temperature gets too low. Once warmed up, idle mix is just enough to prevent bog when the throttle is slammed open.

 

[SteveSr]

Mine have the standard start, traditional start pull cord. They do appear to have a stout compression ratio along with their peculiar starting procedure.

Sounds like these might have carb needle issues. Try to pressure test the fuel inlet on the carb. Should hold 7-10 PSI indefinitely. If not heat is pushing gas into the cylinder and flooding it.

These saws are known to be finicky on cold starting. While it can be hard to get them to "pop" they will usually let you know to take the choke off by tugging on your arm . If you don't get the hint the next pull on choke will flood the saw.

 

[sundance]

Sounds like y'all have the same issues with the MS 250 I have with mine. Super easy to flood and then I can't even pull it over without removing the plug and turning upside down to drain excess fuel. Nice saw when I can get it running. Wondering if it has a carb issue? Maybe the metering lever needs attention? Thoughts?

 

[dmb2613]

Just adjust the low idle and you should be good, it has to be spot on and most other saws crank better if the carb is adjusted right

 

[SteveSr]

Sounds like y'all have the same issues with the MS 250 I have with mine. Super easy to flood and then I can't even pull it over without removing the plug and turning upside down to drain excess fuel. Nice saw when I can get it running. Wondering if it has a carb issue? Maybe the metering lever needs attention? Thoughts?

Hear an echo?

 

[sundance]

Hear an echo?

Perhaps I was too obtuse @SteveSr . My direct question would be: Will re-setting my metering lever help my issue? Or should I concentrate on the low setting?

 

[lone wolf]

Perhaps I was too obtuse @SteveSr . My direct question would be: Will re-setting my metering lever help my issue? Or should I concentrate on the low setting?

Start with the L which is easier.

 

[HarleyT]

Perhaps I was too obtuse @SteveSr . My direct question would be: Will re-setting my metering lever help my issue? Or should I concentrate on the low setting?

Yours is more than getting the saw flooded/hard to start. You have a leaking needle or something. A new carb from the Stihl dealer would be the best bet.

 

[lambs]

I've worked on a few of these saws for friends, and although I'm no mechanic, the tried and true start procedure from cold seems to be 2 pulls on full choke, then switch to half choke to start it. More than two pulls on full choke will flood it whether or not it pops. Set the carbs to standard settings and go from there.

 

[sundance]

I've worked on a few of these saws for friends, and although I'm no mechanic, the tried and true start procedure from cold seems to be 2 pulls on full choke, then switch to half choke to start it. More than two pulls on full choke will flood it whether or not it pops. Set the carbs to standard settings and go from there.

Trust me....two pulls on full choke on mine you won't be making any more full pulls (if you would happen to get two full pulls, not likely)! It will be locked up. I'm past believing I've suddenly become too weak to start a saw and ready to try a carb swap.

 

[stihl86]

Perhaps I was too obtuse @SteveSr . My direct question would be: Will re-setting my metering lever help my issue? Or should I concentrate on the low setting?

If the lever is set too high, yes it could be the problem.
Also, the saw should run and run well with the initial settings.
Any major variations from them is masking another problem.

 

[SteveSr]

Perhaps I was too obtuse @SteveSr . My direct question would be: Will re-setting my metering lever help my issue? Or should I concentrate on the low setting?

Sounds like you have another problem which a pressure test on the carb fuel inlet would confirm. You likely either have crud holding the needle open or a bad/stiff metering diaphragm holding the needle open. I see a new carb in your future.