Stihl MS 290 question

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roysha

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I installed a new cylinder and piston. Pretty much a straight forward job on this "plastic wonder" New kit in the carb. New fuel line and pulse line.

Fired it up. Adjusted carb. about a 1000 off max. rpm so I could sort of ease in the new stuff. Took it out and cut some 6"-7" diameter DRY Russian Olive. A true gutless machine. I could stop the chain if I put any pressure on the saw at all. Messed around with the carb settings (it does respond to the adjustments) and got it to run under load a little bit better but still not like it should. My old MAC 310 does better. So frustrated I put it on the bench and walked away before I took a hammer to it.

It has an 18" bar with 3/8 pitch chisel that someone has cut the rakers back pretty far on. Not real bad, but more than my gauge says is correct. Oiler is working sufficiently. Personally I would prefer a bit more but the chain is a wee bit oily so I'm sure that is ok.

Next morning, about 25* temp, I tried to start it. Not even a pop. Checked compression. 90psi cold. Removed muffler to inspect cylinder and it looks just as it should. Perfectly smooth and clean. Gave it a shot of gas through the carb and it started first pull. After that, during the day when ever I would try to start it, it fired immediately. Ran it to get it hot and compression is still 90psi. Had some other stuff to do so left it till this morning. Same thing. Wouldn't start until I primed it. Then, first time every time.

Pressure tested. No leaks.

So... My question is, can anyone give me some idea(s) as to what I may have done wrong?

Although this is the first time I have had any major experience with this family of saws, I have built quite a few Stihls over the years, particularly the 024/026/034 series. I worked for the Stihl dealership for years before they sold out and I retired. This is not chainsaw country so these saws (for the Stihl brand) were by far the most common at that time.

In many ways this reminds me of the string trimmer engine issue that Mccullough (sic) had in the late 90s. They shipped a batch of them with engines that had the ports in the wrong place. Although they would run, they had no power. We replaced, probably, a dozen or so upper ends under warranty. If I recall correctly, when we called Pac-Power, the distributor, they said if the compression was 85-90psi and fell within a certain ser. no. range it needed replacement. The only difference is that this saw will respond to carb adjustments which the trimmers would not do.

HELP!!!
 
Was the piston/cyl. kit oem or aftermarket? look at the sprocket and read all of the numbers/etc. plus how many teeth?

Can you show a pic of the chain/sprocket?
 
How about some more info:

1.) What kind of piston/cylinder kit did you install?
2.) Why did you replace the original?


And some add'l questions:

3.) Did your kit come w/ a decompression plug hole? If so, is it adequately plugged?
4.) How are the spark plug threads?
 
1. OEM
2. Engine worn out. Very low compression
3. No compression release
4. Plug threads clean and tight. No leaks.

The chain (obviously not the the same chain but same style (Stihl) and sprocket are the same as when the saw was new and it ran and cut fine for a long time. The sprocket has been replaced once No the sprocket is not worn or notched.

I guess my main question is why the low compression. According to an email I have from Stihl tech folks, the hot compression should not be any lower than 110psi for optimal performance. I'm not even there cold.
 
1. OEM
2. Engine worn out. Very low compression
3. No compression release
4. Plug threads clean and tight. No leaks.

The chain (obviously not the the same chain but same style (Stihl) and sprocket are the same as when the saw was new and it ran and cut fine for a long time. The sprocket has been replaced once No the sprocket is not worn or notched.

I guess my main question is why the low compression. According to an email I have from Stihl tech folks, the hot compression should not be any lower than 110psi for optimal performance. I'm not even there cold.

Did you put the rings on? Did you get a complete piston and cylinder kit from stihl?
 
I'd say your compression should be north of 150. What caused it I do not know, but 90 psi isn't going to cut it. No pun intended.
 
You should be about 1-1 1/4 turns out on the H side of the carb. What's the compression on the Mac 310? Do you have any other saws to test your tester with?
 
I'd say your compression should be north of 150. What caused it I do not know, but 90 psi isn't going to cut it. No pun intended.

My new ms290 was at 135 psi when I got it... just as a reference.
 
Is your compression tester giving a true reading?

It sounds like the saw starts and runs good once you prime it. Is the choke closing all the way?

Is the metering lever adjusted properly in the carb and are the gasket and diaphragm installed in the correct order?

Did you adjust the H needle on the carb so that the saw 4 strokes at WOT then smooths out in the cut?

Is the spark arrester screen in the muffler clean?
 

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