Stihl MS180, What rpm is your's running?

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Trigger-Time

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Stihl MS180 Has no H or L screw.
I have run about 10 tanks, I thought I would check rpm at WOT last night.
No load it's running 13,500 to 14,000 rpm. I don't know, but thought
this would be about a 12,000 to 12,500 rpm saw. It sounds a little lean.
It also acts lean on the low side. It won't pick up the rpms very well
until saw is good and warm

What rpm is your's running?
 
A guy I work with had a 180 acting similar. Never ran right from the time he bought it new. Hard starting, fuzzy comming off idle, sounded lean @ high revs,... He gave it time to break in, plus a few trips back to the dealer who said it was fine (BS!). He was ready to throw it away. He sent it with me to see what I thought and it really was crap. I took the carb off, thoroughly cleaned and blew through everything, put it back together. Now it's a completely different saw. Starts right up, idles great, good throttle response, good power, etc. It's actually a great cutting saw. Figured it would be hard to get to run right withoug the H/L screws, but it really turned fine. Not sure why that would have to be done to make a new saw run right. Probably a light coating of something from assembly got into the jets/passages?? Anyway, you might give that a try. But a carb with adjustmens would be nice.

RPM's after cleaning about the same as yours (don't remember the exact number), but quit making that "I'm about to sieze my piston" sound - if that makes any sense.
 
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Gary on one of mine that I bought used that had been sitting . It was running PMN It ran about 14,500.. Plug looked real good ..




.
 
A guy I work with had a 180 acting similar. Never ran right from the time he bought it new. Hard starting, fuzzy comming off idle, sounded lean @ high revs,... He gave it time to break in, plus a few trips back to the dealer who said it was fine (BS!). He was ready to throw it away. He sent it with me to see what I thought and it really was crap. I took the carb off, thoroughly cleaned and blew through everything, put it back together. Now it's a completely different saw. Starts right up, idles great, good throttle response, good power, etc. It's actually a great cutting saw. Figured it would be hard to get to run right withoug the H/L screws, but it really turned fine. Not sure why that would have to be done to make a new saw run right. Probably a light coating of something from assembly got into the jets/passages?? Anyway, you might give that a try. But a carb with adjustmens would be nice.

RPM's after cleaning about the same as yours (don't remember the exact number), but quit making that "I'm about to sieze my piston" sound - if that makes any sense.

This one starts very easy and idles good, cold 3 or 4 pulls, warm or hot
1 pull.......I just did'nt think that they would run that fast, I like the
little saw allot.......just wanted to be sure.
 
I had one that had a bad carb so I did some looking and found out a WT325A was on a few early ones...I had to try it and that one runs great with that carb..I switched them all to 3/8 LP....




.

I will keep my eye out for one. (WT325A)

So you switched to the .050 Picco?
 
Yes ......I didn't like the cheesy PMN chain and I had two running the .050 LP and they were fine with it....So they all were switched over.....



.

Did it hurt the power much, going to the PM BC?
I do have a 14" 16" and 18" .050 PM BC's

I'm running a 12" PMN BC, It works good flush cutting 1/2" to 10"
Eastern Red Ceder's.......less bar to get into dirt and rocks. :chainsaw:
 
Stihl MS180 Has no H or L screw.
I have run about 10 tanks, I thought I would check rpm at WOT last night.
No load it's running 13,500 to 14,000 rpm. I don't know, but thought
this would be about a 12,000 to 12,500 rpm saw. It sounds a little lean.
It also acts lean on the low side. It won't pick up the rpms very well
until saw is good and warm

What rpm is your's running?
bypass the compensator port
 
A Stage 2 modded 180 is a great little saw , especially for only 31cc's
 
Stage 2 is freeing up both the intake and exhaust ,, this little saw benefits mostly by plugging up the comp port and drilling a 1/16th hole in carb top to allow the diaphram to move
 
Stage 2 is freeing up both the intake and exhaust ,, this little saw benefits mostly by plugging up the comp port and drilling a 1/16th hole in carb top to allow the diaphram to move
move to the rich side
 
Remove the intake insert ,, install a 3 stage stihl air fiter ,, remove air filter housing ,, drill a 1/16" hole in carb snorkel top ,, plug upper part of snorkel with rtv silicone ,, reassemble ,, remove spark arrestor ,, open up exhaust louvers on muffler wit a screw driver ,, you'll have a totally different saw
 

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