Stihl MS180C chain rotating on idle (and other problems)

[keeweechris]

Hi guys,

First time poster and just about first time chain-sawer here. Dad gave me his 5yr old MS-180C saw the other day, as the shop said it was cheaper to buy a new one than fix... haha, don't they all. So I'm trying to fix it.

4 main problems:
1) Leaks bar oil - I've traced that down to that pesky oil hose. Got a new one on the way.
2) Chain doesn't stop rotating at idle.
3) Revs its nuts off when started with choke in first position. Shifting to 2nd position, fully down, stalls it.
3) Blows what I'd consider too much white smoke from exhaust after starting up. Quite oily inside the muffler too, and on the metal gasket and bolts behind the muffler.

I've had the clutch off and cleaned out all the muck in there. Clutch springs in tact, and nothing looks cooked. Oiler cog/screw looks good and rotates freely, and clutch bell housing spins freely by hand. But after starting, the chain turns at idle, so I figure it's idling too fast and clutch is engaging. Tried to turn idle down, with that little screw accessible from the outside, but even at max low the chain still rotates.

So, are the clutch springs simply worn/stretched, or is it idling too fast? And is the white smoke anything to worry about?

Cheers for any help!

 

[rupedoggy]

@ bob hedgecutter

 

[RED-85-Z51]

All the way down is choke/high idle.
One click up is no choke, high idle.
Squeeze throttle and it should snap up into the low idle position, then up for off.



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[keeweechris]

Right, so even at Low Idle the chain is turning. I'll get a vid tomorrow so you can tell me if it is running too fast.

 

[Toyboy]

If the chain is moving at idle, it's idling too fast. Back off the idle screw a tad

 

[SteveSr]

Could also be dry/bad clutch idler bearing or clutch springs caused by overheating. Post a pic of the outside of the clutch drum and of the clutch with the drum removed.

 

[rupedoggy]

It seems to have an air leak.

 

[SteveSr]

It seems to have an air leak.

Another good possibility... Depending on age could be crank seals or more likely pan gasket.

 

[Pioneer]

If the clutch springs are weak it will engage the clutch at low idle speeds. Replacement ones are cheap, or you can try heating the old ones dull red with a propane torch and dropping them in 5-20 oil. Worked for me in the past when old saw parts were hard to find.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Okay, the Stihl shop your Dad took the rooted 180 to was not lying- for their labour and genuine parts- it IS cheaper to buy a new consumer saw.
AND they would have told your Dad what they suspected was the problem and WHY it would be uneconomic to repair.
How about we start with what the shop told your Dad was wrong with it?

 

[farmguywithasaw]

 

[Rein]

If the clutch springs are weak it will engage the clutch at low idle speeds. Replacement ones are cheap, or you can try heating the old ones dull red with a propane torch and dropping them in 5-20 oil. Worked for me in the past when old saw parts were hard to find.

Would there be much of a difference if I used 10W-30 oil or ATF, both of which I happen to have on hand?

 

[Pioneer]

The thicker the oil the slower it will cool down, this will affect the hardness. The ATF is probably really close to 5-20, I would try that. Cooling them too slow will make them soft, cooling them too fast will make them brittle and they will break.
If you're worried about them getting too brittle, you can always try the thicker oil first and then redo them with thinner oil if you find they turned out too soft.