Stihl MS180C smoking/overheating?

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glenintenn

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Pulled my 180C out to cut some oak ... have never had an issue with it getting too hot.

After 10 minutes of cutting I noticed that I could feel heat through my glove holding the front handle coming from the exhaust manifold . Stopped, Sat it on a stump and it was smoking a bit from the exhaust Let it sit for 15 minutes. Started again...cut for 5 and it was smoking again- a little bit of smoke from the exhaust. No smoke coming from the chain.

Chain is sharp...it's peeling nice sized chips out of hardwood. Checked gas mix (50:1) and an Echo chainsaw using the same gas is running fine

There is no H/L carb adjustment on these 180C carbs to get a better mix (normally I would think this is a sign of too rich or too lean carb mix).

Suggestions?
 
yeah. I figured HIPA == "Amazon crap shoot brand" / Random "guy" somewhere in a certain country who reverse engineered Zama (who ripped off Walbro) and now sells these things. But.. they have a more polished website than most flybynight-ists... $20 is pretty low risk so may give it a shot if I can't stop it from overheating after cleaning up the exhaust.
 
still navel-contemplating the matter... had a bunch of work to do so couldn't get in the shop with the 180 to look it over.
Google pushed this video short of a guy moving "the snorkel" top port of the MS 170/180 over to an MS 210/250 carb and indicating (didn't show it mounted and running in a saw) that this would yield an adjustable carb for a 170/180.

 
still navel-contemplating the matter... had a bunch of work to do so couldn't get in the shop with the 180 to look it over.
Google pushed this video short of a guy moving "the snorkel" top port of the MS 170/180 over to an MS 210/250 carb and indicating (didn't show it mounted and running in a saw) that this would yield an adjustable carb for a 170/180.


The Wt215 I got for my 170 needed the brass plug removed from the needed impulse circuit and needed to epoxy the other impulse hole. Believe it was 021/3/5 carb
 
Hundreds of thousands of these running just fine with the 1 screw (BIS) carburetor. You may need a new carburetor, but same type will be fine. That air filter gets dirty from the bottom side.
A little more diagnosis is needed
 
The issue with most of these is that they sit from one storm until the next in a lot of cases. They do not take well to sitting because the orifice is just so small. Does not take much to lean it out or close it completely. The carb is about $45 , so unless you are just bored it is hard to justify rebuilding when that may not fix it anyway.
 
Id try a carb rebuild - even just a basic job will help - carefully remove the screws from each side in turn, liberal use of carb cleaner in all the holes, screens and crevices and reassemble
 
Had an interesting time with a Stihl 180. I have only run it once, and it ran fine.few months later I ran it again. It ran fine for about 10 cuts through small diameter limbs, and it quit and would not start. Since it was still under warranty I returned it to the dealer for repair. They said it was something in the gas, put the canned gas in it and it started and ran. I don't have it back yet. Two other saws, a fairly new 261 and a much older Echo CS 352 ran fine on the same gas mix. Perhaps the180 is more sensitive to gas mix. I use Stihl grey oil mix to get the extended warranty. (just wanted to add this to this interesting discussion.
 
Just this week my partner in crime who is a certified Stihl tech spent about an hour and a half trying to clean a carb on a MS180. No luck. So, at $65 and hour which is cheap relatively, he pissed away rather than just replacing a carb we have at least a dozen of, get $45 , and I can do in three minutes. Timed it.

If you want to let your saw set for a year or two, or have **** in your fuel can, don't expect anything other than the obvious.
 
Those little saws also have a weak chain brake band.Maybe not enough force to stop the chain, but still enough drag to build up heat.
 

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