Stihl MS200T fuel tank repair suggestions.

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My MS200T has a small crack in the fuel tank that leaks a drip every few minutes. It may have had it for years and gone unnoticed but today I was cleaning it up as it was a bit oily and now I know why. I thought it was the fuel cap leaking but after changing it out today I discovered the real cause. The damage may have been caused by another saw's chain.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to repair this leak.

Thanks.

Stihl MS200T fuel tank crack 001.JPG
 
My MS200T has a small crack in the fuel tank that leaks a drip every few minutes. It may have had it for years and gone unnoticed but today I was cleaning it up as it was a bit oily and now I know why. I thought it was the fuel cap leaking but after changing it out today I discovered the real cause. The damage may have been caused by another saw's chain.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to repair this leak.

Thanks.

View attachment 895889
Scuff it, clean the spot with Brakeclean after dumping the fuel out, apply JB weld, wait 24 hrs( don't use the quick dry formula ) should be good to go.
 
i would v the crack and fill it in with quick steel epoxy putty or use a plastic welder..any method will require cleaning the tank of all gasoline residue and leaving the cap off until fully cured. whats a tank cost?
 
With a careful touch using a soldering iron.
I did so with a considerable leak on this fuel tank. Firstly go along the crack line and melt a shallow “V” then come back either side melting and pushing that melted plastic back into the “V”.

Don’t go too hot with the iron and be patient, it will give you a solid repair. I think it’s better than adding any adhesive to it. You completely negate adhesion issues.


029C86F7-BB88-4A94-9052-7F99C7A23C98.jpeg
 
If you do decide JB weld, don't forget to remove the amine blush with soapy water between coats, IF the epoxy has cured. If you are applying it before full cure, then you don't. Key well in between coats (only if cured) too. I have never had good luck using epoxy on stihl "plastics" (glass reinforced fiber)
 
Thanks for the great techniques!

I'm going the scruff and epoxy route. I figure if it doesn't work I can try another method the second time around.
Maybe, maybe not.
I have fixed many plastic tanks, handles etc. And I find that soldering, very slowly, works best by far. If you do use donor plastic, make sure its exactly the same.

Good luck
 
Maybe, maybe not.
I have fixed many plastic tanks, handles etc. And I find that soldering, very slowly, works best by far. If you do use donor plastic, make sure its exactly the same.

Good luck

I've got a few soldering irons and a soldering gun and like the soldering idea, too.

What is a good source for donor plastic?
 
A part from another Stihl.

Agree.
But, this little repair should not require any part/donor.
Just gently "weld" it together. (gently, meaning don't burn it too hot etc)

Picture here is from a Husky 40, with torn apart oil tank.
No donor, just welded together.
No leaks so far, 6 months after.
 

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The soldering iron it is!

I've got a pencil iron that is 25w and a 200w iron I use to finish off the ends of ropes.

I still would like to have a little donor plastic on hand and I don't.

I'm going ahead anyway but not for a few days.
 
Opt for the 25 watt iron and only have it hot enough to melt the plastic fully. If it starts to go dark brown turn it off and then go back to it a minute or so later. Plug it back in when it’s too cold to melt efficiently. It’s a case of back and forth, but I believe that it’s the most superior method of fixing a leak. No donor plastic is required.
 
Plastic weld it, if you need some filler, cut off an extra bit from another part of the tank, where the seam has an overlap, you can shave off some excess plastic off that.

had a clutch damaged 180, punched thru the plastic chassis into the oil gallery.
cleaned, and then with soldering iron, folded over and filled the hole, and then worked out around that, been fine now for 5 years.

1803.jpg
 

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