Stihl MS280 running issues

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

got2dv8

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
4
Reaction score
1
Location
midwest
Once again, a had an issue with running and idle problems. This time it is with my MS280. Like last time with my HS81R, I searched the forum for previous posts regarding idle problems and because of this I found the cause of the problem (clogged muffler screen). This time my saw would zing really high and not come back down to idle...(that sucks having the blade spinning up) and it would not idle at all. I rebuilt the carb, new plug, fuel and air filters (decent compression).. but still had the problem...even after trying to adj the carb multiple times. After reading some posts I checked the intake boot going to the cylinder and it is cracked (broken). There is my lean issue. This site rocks. I will be so happy once I get my saw up and running again.

Thanks for the great site!

Robert
 
Any time you put a carb kit in the carb needs to be re tuned. If it is a newer 280 it has one of those auto tune carbs. If you tune the carb right and it still does it you need to pressure and vac test it.
 
:clap::clap::clap: Excellent !
It's always satisfying when a person can search and solve a problem so don't forget to pay it forward and pass something you have learned to help someone out .

:cheers:
 
Stihl MS280 problem fixed

Chainsaw is fixed and running strong. The new intake manifold did the trick. Too bad the cylinder has to be removed to remove/install manifold. I didn't have Stihl's recommended red sealant so I used ThreeBond 1104. I use ThreeBond on my motorcycles and it worked fine on the chainsaw. I had to buy a T27 screwdriver from Sears as the one I have from Stihl is too thick to reach the cylinder base screws which I ended up tightening by hand as there was no way to properly torque the cylinder screws. In the end all it well, no leaks or issues. Saw idles good now (I did have to reset the L and idle screws to get it to run correctly after a carb rebuild of course) and cuts well at speed.

Robert
 
Hey Robert welcome to the fun house we call AS. You did good find and fixing your saw.

I have a hint you can try if you ever need to do it again. I replace those things all the time and don't remove the jug. A set of forceps is needed. I fold the new boot in half long ways and stick it in from the carb side. New they are easy to fold there not all hard and junk.

Fish the clampdown onto the neck of the jugg with the screw facing out to the right side so you can get a screwdriver on it. Grease the boot a dab and work it around the neck. Move the clamp up and tighten it. Then pull the other end back thru the carb hole if it pushed all the way in and stick the ring and the carb back on.

It's not as hard to do as it is to explain how to do it. Maybe next time you can try it out.
Saw Safe,
Joe
 

Latest posts

Back
Top