stihl ms660 dual port

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diesel00

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I have a ms660 dual port . Both the porting are on the sides. this is some after-market deal I am looking for a replacement shroud for on of the ports fell out while cuttin. all the port wants to do now is melt the hell out of my chain brake . any help would be great. Thanks
 
I dont want to spend the 150$ if i dont have to . I would like to get te replacement part i possible. I am not sure what outfit builds a dual port with both ports on the side maybe madsens ?
 
1 1/2" or 1" emt conduit (Thinwall) cut @ a 45 deg. angle, makes a good hood to put over the hole and re-direct the exhaust flow forward. mig or braze in place I will try to post some pics of how I've done several of mine this evening,, just grind or belt sand the galvinized finish off at the weld junction abit and you are good to go!!!!!!!!!!!! :givebeer: and paint it with the high heat paint!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Sorry, I didn't read your post correctly. Yes, you should be able to weld on a new shroud made of pipe or whatever.
 
Tell me you mean 1/2 of 3/4 inch. 1 1/2 conduit would be a very big hole. Probably bigger than the exhaust port itself.

if ya have a big pipe you only use a portion of the angle cut to cover the existing hole and shoot the exhaust gas forward and away from his brake handle,,, if 1" pipe makes a good or big enough deflector that great if it's 3/4",,, some people like several small holes leaving some metal to run a sheet metal screw through ahd hold their Spark arresting screen in place then grind off the screw shank that's Protruding.. or you can buy a ready made deflector from husky for about 15.00- 18.00 quid
or get a 3.00 piecec of pipe and have enough material to do about 200 mufflers...
 
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Will do,,,,

Post a pic of one of those mufflers with a 1 1/2" pipe in it. It just seams to me that it would be too big and look dumb. But I could be wrong.

Tomorrow or Sat,,, I will be working @ the Stihl dealership .,Right now the saw is still packed from PNW trip and I always play with a few of my project saws @ lunch and after closing a bit,,, I have to pull the muffler anyway and I'll shoot and post some pics then,,, I only use a slice of the side of the pipe cut on an angle to cover the additional holes, and I use stainless screen wire mesh 1"x 1" square to cover the holes from inside the muffler can. It is very simple yet effective......

River
 
Here ya go!!!!! Mufler pix,,,

Post a pic of one of those mufflers with a 1 1/2" pipe in it. It just seams to me that it would be too big and look dumb. But I could be wrong.

the pipe is not really in it,,,, only a slice of the side wall is {on it} covering 4,,, 3/8" holes

This is the 044(bottom/460top all stihl big bore WHS stageII saw we built at Washington Hot Saws while I was on the PNW tour,, 1 1/2" EMT conduit dual port muffler exhaust deflector Pix

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If you use this approach remember that the screen obsures a good % of the outlet. The screen I use is 43% obscuration... and if you don't have the system where the screen FREE AREA is many times the outlet size (the one shown above is an example of not having this) , take that into account when sizing the outlet, and keep your screen clean.
 
If you use this approach remember that the screen obsures a good % of the outlet. The screen I use is 43% obscuration... and if you don't have the system where the screen FREE AREA is many times the outlet size (the one shown above is an example of not having this) , take that into account when sizing the outlet, and keep your screen clean.


Andy,
Would enlarging the 4 holes and re-attaching the screen suffice or just remove the screen all together and let it rip????????????????

or stihl yet,,,, larger screen mesh????
its very easy to access under the front cover...
 
Depends on how large your holes are already.. but.. in general, yes. Better to have a large internal screen, an "air" gap, then controlled outlet hole sizes. In addition to being restrictive by design, screens have way too much surface area to accumlate particles and change your effective outlet size.
 

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