Stihl rollomatic ES/ grandberg mk3 clamping

[Hunt4lumber]

Two question guys
How close to sprocket nose roller can i clamp w/ my milling clamp before it binds up?
Im tempted to remove double dawgs to gain an extra 1.5" and try that before drilling sprocket bearing in conjunction w/ bark removal prior to making my very first pass?

 

[BobL]

Two question guys
How close to sprocket nose roller can i clamp w/ my milling clamp before it binds up?

The clamp can be right up against the sprocket tips inside the bar..

If you drill a hole through the middle of the sprocket you can put a short 1/4" bolt through the hole.
Drill a 1/4" hole into one side of the middle of the outboard clamp pad and then clamp onto the bolt head on one side, and allow the bolt to pass through the hole in the clamp pad on the other.
High clamping pressure is not needed as the end of the bolt through the mill clamp pad hole stops the bar moving sideways.
When you flip the bar you will need to flip the bolt or drill holes in both outboard clamp pads.

Better than a bolt is a short length of threaded rod that pokes through on both sides of the bar and drill holes in both clamp pads..
This allows the threaded rod to register into both holes.
Recommend using high tensile bolts.

Even better, ditch the clamp pads completely and bolt the bar direct to the mill. This will allow the chain to be swapped out with removing the saw from the mill.