Does stihl make a rollomatic ES, RSN bar in the .325?
Stihl RSN bar in .325?
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sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
No
Grande Dog
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Does anyone think there would be a market for a .325 replacement sprocket noses for Stihl brand bars?
Grande Dog
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Grande Dog
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Stumper
One Man Band
Beats me.-I can't even figure out why anyone chooses to run .325 chain ( Not that there is anything wrong with it-I've used up a couple of 325 chains on saws that came to me equipped with .325. It just seems like a useless additional choice. If the saw doesn't have the grunt to pull 3/8ths then 3/8ths Low Profile is a nice narrowkerf option. If it can pull 3/8ths then why bother with crowded little .325?I guess the big advantage of .325 is smooth running in the kerf. Yup, remind me again that my 3/8ths is rougher in the cut-I just can't seem to notice that.
Lewis Brander
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.325" chain:
I have a tendancy to agree with Stumper. My saws don't run that high an rpm. But I don't notice that much vibration with 3/8" or .404 chain. I do notice a lot of vibration with the 1/2" chain on my older saws. The .325" chain, as far as I'm concerned is for the smaller homeowner saws ( less cubes) and for use on electric saws or for homeowner use only. Can't personally see why anyone would want to run it, unless it came on your saw, then I would upgrade to 3/8" chain, bar and sprocket if I had the option when buying a new saw. JMO. Lewis.
I have a tendancy to agree with Stumper. My saws don't run that high an rpm. But I don't notice that much vibration with 3/8" or .404 chain. I do notice a lot of vibration with the 1/2" chain on my older saws. The .325" chain, as far as I'm concerned is for the smaller homeowner saws ( less cubes) and for use on electric saws or for homeowner use only. Can't personally see why anyone would want to run it, unless it came on your saw, then I would upgrade to 3/8" chain, bar and sprocket if I had the option when buying a new saw. JMO. Lewis.
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
Lewis and others, 3/8' is NOT an upgrade if your saw won't pull it. My 026 came with .325, I tried 3/8'" on it a some expense , bar, chain, sprocket, the saw was FASTER with .325 on it. My 026 was neither a homerner saw nor electric. BTW, electric saws have have torque a plenty where a 2 cycle 'developes' power through high rpm. 50cc seems to be about where the switch can be made, my 026 liked .325 a lot of Husqvarna 346's run 3/8" with no problem. I now have an MS361 and would not think of running .325 on because it does so well with the 3/8" it came with.
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
Older reed valve saws have more low end grunt than newer piston ported engines at the expense of high rpm performance. This may be why Lewis is a fan of 3/8.
jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
I find that I could do without 3/8lp vs .325 chain. I`ve never seen anything but really small lo pro but .325 can be had as small as Carlton 20NK to as large as Stihl 36RS which is almost as large as a good 3/8 chain.
I agree with Sedanman, there is a valid place for .325 chain. 3/8lp seems toylike.
Russ
I agree with Sedanman, there is a valid place for .325 chain. 3/8lp seems toylike.
Russ
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The only place for 3/8 LP is on saws under 40cc. That includes all the top-handle saws and saws like the Husky 136 and 141. I have not experimented a whole lot with 3/8's on a 50cc saw with the exception of my Solo KD651P. I have a 13" bar with 3/8's for it. It is just for toying around. That saw pulls that just fine. It should considering that Ken Dunn did his magic to it. I think there is a place for .325 and why shouldn't there be!
Lewis Brander
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Smaller saw:
Hi to Paul and everyone. It just seems to me that if your running a 2 to 2 1/2" cu in saw or less, that the .325 would probably be better used on them. A bit larger and the 3/8" chain would be better. JMO. As Paul said my saws are slow, heavy reed valve saws of 4 cu in or larger. I just feel that the larger chain can cut and clear the chips better. I've seen .325" chain that was in good shape (sharp and good raker depth), throw out what appeared to be meally sawdust instead of chips and wasn't that impressed with it. It looked like it was continually recutting the chips in the cut. Guess I'm more old school, I like to see those chips flying. Smaller saws do have there place, but not that impressed with them. I see saws at various places for sale that have the smaller chain on them and just feel thay would be better with larger chain. My old Poulan, 3400 (3.4 cu in), has 3/8" chain and would handle it well. Then I opened up the muffler a bit, readjusted the carb and she really make the 3/8" chain fly. OK, rambled on enough, again JMO for what it's worth. Take care. Lewis.
Hi to Paul and everyone. It just seems to me that if your running a 2 to 2 1/2" cu in saw or less, that the .325 would probably be better used on them. A bit larger and the 3/8" chain would be better. JMO. As Paul said my saws are slow, heavy reed valve saws of 4 cu in or larger. I just feel that the larger chain can cut and clear the chips better. I've seen .325" chain that was in good shape (sharp and good raker depth), throw out what appeared to be meally sawdust instead of chips and wasn't that impressed with it. It looked like it was continually recutting the chips in the cut. Guess I'm more old school, I like to see those chips flying. Smaller saws do have there place, but not that impressed with them. I see saws at various places for sale that have the smaller chain on them and just feel thay would be better with larger chain. My old Poulan, 3400 (3.4 cu in), has 3/8" chain and would handle it well. Then I opened up the muffler a bit, readjusted the carb and she really make the 3/8" chain fly. OK, rambled on enough, again JMO for what it's worth. Take care. Lewis.
I was dinking around a while back and timed brand new Stihl 33RS (3/8) / 7-pin rim vs. brand new 26RS (.325) / 8-pin rim and the .325 was faster, even with a brand new Oregon bar that was dribbling most of the oil out the tail. The rims are almost exactly the same diameter for the same chain speed, and as Russ said, the 26RS kerf is about indistinguishable from the 33RS. That was on my 036. I don't doubt that on the same 10" hickory rounds the same comparative results would be found on the 066 (I'd have done it but the spline is larger on the 066 and I don't have a .325 rim for it).
What do you know, the notepad is sitting right here.<ul><li>6.75 -- ½ used-up Glen-(round)filed 3/8<li>7.25 -- new 3/8<li>6.50 -- new .325<li>8.25 -- new Oregon safety .325 what came with the bar</ul>Maybe not raceworthy times, but they were all within the amount of time it takes to change the bar/chain of each other, and since I'm so consistent, they're truly comparative.
Glen
What do you know, the notepad is sitting right here.<ul><li>6.75 -- ½ used-up Glen-(round)filed 3/8<li>7.25 -- new 3/8<li>6.50 -- new .325<li>8.25 -- new Oregon safety .325 what came with the bar</ul>Maybe not raceworthy times, but they were all within the amount of time it takes to change the bar/chain of each other, and since I'm so consistent, they're truly comparative.
Glen
Crofter
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Glen that Stihl .325 is a pretty fast chain, right out of the box. As the 3/8 wears down it gets faster. The 325 does seem to start to suffer as it wears back. Many other LESSER chains in 325 have a much smaller cutter than Stihl. Put a 10 pin .325 sprocket on your 066 and you might raise a few eyebrows!
