Storing saws

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What I read was that oil, not gas, protects carbs.
I'd not feel comfortable putting oil in a carb. New carbs come bone dry. Some of the passages are very very small and oil could clog some of those. Old gas can dry and drop resins (if alcohol doesn't corrode something). If manufacturers wanted to 'protect' a new carb, they would come coated with oil like new chains.
 
This could be an endless topic.
I've done it both ways and could never tell a difference.
All my equipment started either way whether I dumped the fuel or filled the tanks.
I have a $70 push mower bought new in 2011 that has never had the fuel drained and starts on 1st pull every spring after sitting outside for 6 months under roof.
Yes, non ethanol.
Maybe we're talking a year or more.
 
Most canned fuels straight or with mix added, have a shelf life (are viable) for at least a year and some say (Echo Red Armor) a shelf life of 5 years in a sealed can or enviroment. No corn squeezed gas (without some sort of stabilizer) to prevent phase separation which is what happens inside your saw or other gas powered equipment that cause the carb gunking **** that plugs them and destroys fuel lines to form. Besides stale corn squeezed gas stinks too.
I have dozens of 2 stroke power heads including 6 chainsaws that I never run dry for storage. Until last year, I always used ethanol free premium fuel, however, with almost no issues. Even 25+ year old machines. Up here in Canada, they have mandated ALL fuels must have a minimum of 10% ethanol in them, (as of Jan 2024). So we’ll see how many diagrams I replace in the coming years. One important point to make regarding comments and the use of canned fuels. At +$10 litre ($35 or/gal) I don’t see how this is makes any sense. Carb repair kits are dirt cheap, so are fuel lines. In the interest of Time, (and money) I will continue to store them no differently than before.
Having a few carb kits on hand is about all I’m changing.
-Dan
 
Based on a marine technique, I fog my saws with seafoam. Unless they're all getting used within 3 months, I'll add a little stabilizer to my gas can. When I know I'm putting a saw on the shelf longer than 6 months, I will dump the tank and add 1 capful of seafoam to the tank, and then idle & blip throttle until it dies. The last 10 seconds of runtime smoke like a typical seafoam job. I'll crank it a few times afterwards also. Should get a layer of seafoam somewhat evenly spread around on all the metal bits, and it is also claimed to keep rubber parts pliable and in good condition. The idea is to leave everything sitting with a thin film of seafoam on it. When I get the saws back out and fill them with the usual mix, they start right up with a couple puffs of smoke and then go just fine. Lately as an experiment I've been running 91 E free with Belray H1R, but will probably switch to red armor once out of it. I nervous of fouling rings with H1R. I always use 91 E free 50:1 in my higher compression or ported stuff. Tried 40:1 on a couple during break in, but am satisfied with oiling at 50:1. Cheap stuff gets 40:1, and even have 16:1 in a 80s poulan.
 
This could be an endless topic.
I've done it both ways and could never tell a difference.
All my equipment started either way whether I dumped the fuel or filled the tanks.
I have a $70 push mower bought new in 2011 that has never had the fuel drained and starts on 1st pull every spring after sitting outside for 6 months under roof.
Yes, non ethanol.
Maybe we're talking a year or more.
Lol, my toro walk behind mower gets the same treatment, but it cost a lot more than $70
 
What I read was that oil, not gas, protects carbs.
Over thinking this. Alot of agreement Alkylate canned fuel is good stuff. All the fuss to dump tank & prime carb in straight oil. What a mess to restart saw for little gain.
If you're wanting carb protection & prolonged storage, just do an after-run heavy ratio fuel mix. Something that still runs the saw & will restart easily.
Being very conservative on recommendation here. Go out & buy 32oz VP 50/40:1 canned fuel. $6.99 at TSC. Add an extra amount of VP 2-cycle or Red Armor to create after-run mix. Shake it up, dump regular mix pump gas, pour in bit of after-run mix & run saw minute or two. Shut down on choke as suggested. Done. Can optionally dump special fuel back into VP can. To use same of TruFuel or Echo etc.

Pick your liking of extra oil. Here's the math..
32 oz of 50:1 has 0.64 oz oil, 50/40:1 if 45:1 has 0.71 oz oil, or actual 40:1 has 0.80 oz oil. [1 oz = 30 ml]

After-run mix, round figures. {added oil to 32 oz, 50:1}
32:1 -- add 10 ml more oil to 50:1
24:1 -- add 20 ml more
20:1 -- add 27 ml more

Hot tip, save your Stabil empty bottles or other squeeze measure bottle. Cut off the small Vial, usually marked 1/4 to 1 oz, back side 10ml / 20ml / 30ml (=1 oz).

Give it a try. Easy solution for storage worries.

Before asked... yes that is straight unmixed 100LL AvGas pictured of blue tint
 

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With all these great ideas, makes me wonder which is actually the best? My 8 or so Stihls are stored either in the heated rec room closet, or semi-heated garage. I leave about 1/2 tank in them, then dose a touch of Stabil for e-free fuel. Seems to work, for me at least. They all start readily, except for the 500I which has always been stubborn
 
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