stump killer chemical

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grayhayter

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Am interested in lastest info regarding stump "killer" chemical that

a) produces minimum long term residue in ambient soil and
b) minimises harm to operator (any such substance?)

Graham
 
There is some stuff you can get at any garden shop called 'stump rot', costs about $5 for a little jar. Doesn't seem overly effective, but it helps speed up the rotting process. From what I remember the instructions say something about using it then burning out the stump a month later or something.
 
The "safest" herbicides contain glyphosate (Roundup, Rodeo) which have little or no persistence in the soil.
Herbicides with less than one month persistence are; 2,4D; dichlorprop (Weedone 2,4-DP); flauzifop-butyl (Fusilade); sethoxydim (Poast, Vantage)
 
roundup undiluted applied to the stump will keep it from resprouting . Do not use Tordon stump killer if there are any other valuable trees or shrubs in the root zone of the stump because it will travel through the roots and up into other vegetation. I know from experience. john
 
I gotta disagree with you on the Roundup, John. First of all, undiluted Roundup is approx. $100 per gallon. Second of all, it is a SYSTEMIC herbicide- that means it is absorbed through the leaves. Pouring it on the ground or on a stump is the same as pouring it down the drain. :(
I'm no chemical expert, but I have 20 years experience using Roundup (had my own lawn business for 8 years before going into trees full time). In that time I have seen many people use it improperly then complain that it didn't work. Especially as expensive as it is in the concentrate form.
 
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Roundup has been shown to be effective for stump kill in many invasive control studies.

http://search.dogpile.com/texis/search?q=invasive+control&geo=no&fs=web

I have found a 1:5 rate to be best. Applied as a basal paint. You have more control as to where it is going. I use a toillette brush.

Some of the studies say 100% rate gives 100% control, but it does not hold through out all of the studies. 1:5 gives consistant control around 80-90%.

Bets timing is in fall when there is graetre translocation to the roots. I've also done large foliar apps on Buckthorn and Honeysuckle since they hold there leaves longer then most native plants, or for lot clearing.

Glyphsate breakes down fast in organic soils but i have read that it can persist in heavy clays. Being a phosphate, soil biota will decompose it. but something has to be able to feed on it.
 
treeclimber, you are right if roundup is applied to the bark of a stump. but if you apply roundup to a fresh cut stump, on the actual cut, the stump will take it in and it will kill the tree. thanks for responding . john paul mcmillin
 
Garlon 4, if you're just trying to stop it from suckering. They say you can drink this stuff, but I wouldn't recommend it. Works fairly well ,but some species will still sucker off of the root system.
 
I was reading in one of the tree trade mags about a chemical that stops suckering. Do any of you have experience with this? Does it work on only specific trees? I have a cottonwood that I cut down in my back yard this year, thats suckering all over.
 
I have had good results with "Tree Hold" sprout inhibiter, I have used it on birch, Linden, Crabapple and apple. I use it on living trees , why dont you use a herbicide if the tree was already cut down. Those cottonwoods can really sucker all over the place and far out too.
 
I've used it as Sucker Stopper by Montery Chem. Smae stuff as JPM uses under a brand lable. costs around $260 a gallon and mixes at 15 rate. It is NAA, been around for years.

Harris says that it can be used to control honeylocust pods too.
 
Garlon 4, i think is part deisel and if i recall correctly it can spread through root graphs. we carve a circle around the inner bark and through the sap wood of fresh cut stumps with the tip of our chainsaws and apply undiluted round-up. this leaves a good surface for absorbtion and seems to keep them from suckering.
 

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