Stupid question??

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pbuehning

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When I added the double dog kit (with ceramic chain catcher) to my 361, I left the original alum. one in place. I've noticed that most people seem to remove the alum catcher. Should I remove it or not? I have yet to lose a chain and safety is something I don't take for granted. Please advise!!!:confused:
 
The roller takes the place of the stock chain catcher. No need for it anymore. If you take yours off, put the screw back in the hole and tighten it down, it's not just for the catcher.

Ian
 
Same answer for either saw; you can leave the original alum. chain catcher in place with the new upgraded roller type catcher. You would just have a "dual catcher" arrangement, no real effect on each other. Of course the inner, less substantial original will not really be doing anything. Now many on here remove the original as soon as the install the roller type because those bent alum. tab type chain catchers are brush suckers. If you do much small limb cutting, brush cutting or slashing down brush piles small twigs tend to get sucked into the space between the catcher and chain then hang up the chain, a natural chain brake if you will. The problem being that bent alum catcher is too close to the chain, clutch cover, etc. and once the twigs get sucked in these's no way for it to clear itself. It can happen with the roller catchers as well, just not as prevalent.

Now if you remove the original catcher be sure to re-install the screw as that is a case AV mount as well (either saw you mention). In fact I'd add a washer beneath the screw too(where the catcher was)....
 
Would the same apply when mounting roller on ms390 please?

Yes. I believe it will work on the 390. I put one on my 12 yr old 036, simple bolt on, no mod. I lined it up with my 028s, it would work on them too, no mods.
 
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Do you haVe to mod that to get it on a 390...and how much is it?

Not sure, but would guess not. Do you have a 028, 036, 034, 026 nearby to compare? Or simply remove your bumper spikes and take them into your Stihl dealer and compare them to the 361. If they would bolt up to it, they will bolt onto your saw. The only question would be your clutch cover, Magnesium? Does it have holes or blind holes for outter dogs?

Around $30, well worth it.

Here it is on my 12 year old 036.......
 
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Since the title of this thread may be appropriate for my question, and on the subject too, exactly how does a chain catcher function?

I've tried to visualize a chain breaking, and the chain of events (pun intended) that unfolds when it does. It would seem to me the chain would get whipped off the bar with or without the catcher, and hit your leg. The only difference I can imagine is the catcher would jam the chain and prevent it from being dragged across your leg.

Then you got roller catchers, and ones made of ceramic? This seems counterintuitive to me, since I visualize the chain litterally rolling over the catcher. I must not have this gizmo figured out.
 
Having just bought a ms390, I had to replace the original cover with a mag cover (PN 1125064017010) as advised here on AS. Thankfully this was available in my local dealer but at a cost of approx. US$70-00. The double dogs are not available in Ireland but Baileys will be sorting me out thankfully.
:clap: :clap: :clap:
More anon....
 
Hey

My 390's I bought about a month a go came with Magnezium covers..... like in the Pic sombody posted above of a 361... but I still don't know if it will work... If it will that would be great get some good stump cuttin levrage
 
Since the title of this thread may be appropriate for my question, and on the subject too, exactly how does a chain catcher function?

I've tried to visualize a chain breaking, and the chain of events (pun intended) that unfolds when it does. It would seem to me the chain would get whipped off the bar with or without the catcher, and hit your leg. The only difference I can imagine is the catcher would jam the chain and prevent it from being dragged across your leg.

Then you got roller catchers, and ones made of ceramic? This seems counterintuitive to me, since I visualize the chain litterally rolling over the catcher. I must not have this gizmo figured out.

I've only had two chains break in my years of cutting and they both flew off the end of the bar into space, from hitting hardware in the wood. Broke on bottom of bar, if the break were on top the sprocket would continue to pull chain back to the saw and the chain catch would do it's job. More often than not the chain catch captures a chain that has de-railed off the bar, either from being too slack or can happen when cutting in brush. Depending on B/C length it saves your fuel tank and leg from getting whipped by the chain. The longer the B/C the less effective a chain catch is. I've slapped by long chains before, not fun, but just one more reason to wear chaps.:clap:
 
My 390's I bought about a month a go came with Magnezium covers..... like in the Pic sombody posted above of a 361... but I still don't know if it will work... If it will that would be great get some good stump cuttin levrage

My pic is of a 036, but exact same bolt pattern as a 361. And I believe the resident guru, Lakeside, confirmed that it will fit a 039 as well. If you've got the Mag cover you'll either have holes already drilled or blind holes w/bevel for screw head depending on vintage of your replacement cover. The blind holes take less than a minute to drill out, you can almost do it by hand.
 
Wouldn't you just get the same leverage from the original single factory fit bunper spike? Any extra leverage won't make the saw cut if the chain's not sharp.

It's not a leverage thing, or least shouldn't be if you want your bar to last very long... When your flushing stumps, cutting along the stump flare as close to ground level as possible it is usually impossible to get the inner(above) bumper spikes to bite into anything but air. So an appropriate set of outter spikes in necessary for safe ingagement of the saw to the stump. It can be done w/o obviously but much safer, more consistant cut and easier on the saw when done right. If you're "levering" the saw through the wood, somethings wrong, stop (dull cutters, improper angles, rakers off, etc....)
 

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