Super EZ Project

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Drive_1305

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I bought a Super EZ off ebay I thought it would have electronic ign, but after I got it I find its an EZ Automatic #20451335-oh well. It didn't have a plug in it and at first it seemed like it was locked up. I pulled the rope off and it seemed hard to pull- a little oil on back helped. I squirted some oil in the cylinder turned it over by hand several times and it loosened up. It still feels a little stiff to me. Think this is a problem? Maybe its the screw that works loose I've read about? The piston looks good to me, but I could see a few fine lines in the cylinder but they didn't look deep- more like scuffs if anything . Do you think that's a problem or normal? It has got a good blue spark and I pulled it over with a plug in it and it seems to have a lot of compression. I could hold it up by the rope easy and it held up pretty good with the compression release on- it seems to have a lot of compression. The paint is flaking off pretty bad here and there but overall the saw doesn't look bad.

Im no expert but I think its worth fixing up. A cleanup, fuel line, and carb kit would probably get it running, but Im kind of concerned about air leaks. I know I need to leak test it but I don't have the equipment. Im kind of afraid if I take a shortcut to fixing it I'll toast it later. How would you guys suggest I fix it? Tear it completly down or just tune it up? Can you still get gaskets and crank seals for it?
 
You should still be able to get parts from ordertree.com as far as I know. I have a SEZ where the piston is cooked pretty good. When I find a cheap new piston or good used one I will start on it. If it will hold a steady slow idle I would say the seals are decent.
 
Drive_1305 said:
I bought a Super EZ off ebay I thought it would have electronic ign, but after I got it I find its an EZ Automatic #20451335-oh well. It didn't have a plug in it and at first it seemed like it was locked up. I pulled the rope off and it seemed hard to pull- a little oil on back helped. I squirted some oil in the cylinder turned it over by hand several times and it loosened up. It still feels a little stiff to me. Think this is a problem? Maybe its the screw that works loose I've read about? The piston looks good to me, but I could see a few fine lines in the cylinder but they didn't look deep- more like scuffs if anything . Do you think that's a problem or normal? It has got a good blue spark and I pulled it over with a plug in it and it seems to have a lot of compression. I could hold it up by the rope easy and it held up pretty good with the compression release on- it seems to have a lot of compression. The paint is flaking off pretty bad here and there but overall the saw doesn't look bad.

Im no expert but I think its worth fixing up. A cleanup, fuel line, and carb kit would probably get it running, but Im kind of concerned about air leaks. I know I need to leak test it but I don't have the equipment. Im kind of afraid if I take a shortcut to fixing it I'll toast it later. How would you guys suggest I fix it? Tear it completly down or just tune it up? Can you still get gaskets and crank seals for it?

I would just tune it up and see what happens. Fuel line, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, carb kit. Clean it real good and make sure nothings cracked, broken or missing.

A couple of lines on the piston is probably OK but its really hard to tell without seeing the saw. It may only feel like it has good compression. It could just be un lubricated and stiff from sitting so long.

If you can keep a steady idle once you redo the carb you probably don't have any air leaks.

I have lots of good used parts for SEZs if you need anything along the way :)
 
I rubbed and scrubbed about all day trying to clean out the tank but that goo is pretty tuff. I cleaned a plastic motorcycle tank once with auto paint thinner- it cut it pretty good but Im out. I also put in a new carb kit so its comming along.

I noticed at the acres site it shows about five EZ and Super EZ saws all about the same size (~35cc to 40cc) all made during the late 60's 70's. They all say aluminum cylinder with chrome plating and use 32:1 mix except the Super EZ Auto which says use 16:1. Wonder why?

The SEZ Auto cap says 16:1. Does any one know what the E-Z or Super EZ says?
 
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My EZ has the S style clutch on it and Im wanting to put a .325 sprocket and Baileys bar on it. Cutters Choice has the spur sprockets, I suppose they're 7 tooth it doesn't say http://www.cutterschoice.com/cgi-bi...&s=new_us&category=Sprockets&s_category_id=25

I read in another post that that the S style clutch doesn't grip good. If I wanted to change to the 3 shoe type later would it work with my new sprocket? I've looked at some IPL's and it show the 3-shoe has some spacers you have to use. Maybe with the .325 setup the S clutch would hold a little better. Compteruser if your looking what type clutch does yours have?

What would you guys ask for a good used clutch?

Also Baileys 16" bar shows 68 drive links. The origional was 59 or 60. Why the extra 8 links?
 
Different bars have different overall dimensions, theirs may be thicket top-bottom than the origonal.



Ive got plenty of nos "S" clutches, but have yet come across a three shoe for my SEZ. I would also much like to find one.


I also have a few 8 pin .250 clutch drums(not for sale) that Im wanting to use to set a very nice (cute) lil homelite up with some .250 chain if I ever get the chance.


Good little saw you have there, congrats!
 
Drive_1305 said:
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Also Baileys 16" bar shows 68 drive links. The origional was 59 or 60. Why the extra 8 links?

Because the bar you are looking at is .325 and the bar that was original was 3/8. A .325 bar takes more links as the pitch is less that the original .375.

Bill
 
Good call on the chain Bill. Not sure what I were thinking, Oh yeah, I heard clutch and got all excited.


Which leads me to say THANK YOU DRIVE!!!!

Never thought about looking for the clutch at Jacks.
 
Another place that has the clutch a bit cheaper than Jacks is serviceproparts. Select chainsaws and under this clutches. I think their shipping is a bit less also.

Dan
 
Hey, stupid question:
I too have a Super EZAO, I'd like to replace my clutch sproket, however, I can't for the life of me get my old clutch off. How do I go about removing a clutch. I made a spanner type wrench that fits the holes in the side of my clutch, but what do I do to keep the engine from turning over?

I also need a new flywheel. When I got mine it didn't run, upon disassembly I noticed a broken/missing fin on my flywheel. The saw has electronic or solid-state type ignition. I finally got the saw running, but I don't want to run it too much with that flywheel the way it is, unless it wont bother the saw that much, that one little aluminum fin can't weigh that much to throw it off balance too much, but still.......I'm just not sure.
 
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