super wrap gaff pad w/steel inserts

[(WLL)]

whats with the wicked angle? man these pads hurt! how can this be corrected? I have used these pads for 3yrs and so far Buckingham has made no improvements. does anyone else have this problem? my new foot plates make this problem hurt even more wtf:angry2: i also want to find a shoe/boot that works good with and without hooks. ems makes a great mountaineering boots the best i ever used and they are great 2 foot-lock prune and remove but cost 225$ and the sole starts 2 peal off after 2 months ems states they stand behind there boots and will replace, refund or fix what ever the customer wants, but this is a crock of chit they have replaced them once 4 me but took 1hr or arguing so i put them on the don't ever do that again list. please:help:

 

[jomoco]

Hard to get both in one package

whats with the wicked angle? man these pads hurt! how can this be corrected? I have used these pads for 3yrs and so far Buckingham has made no improvements. does anyone else have this problem? my new foot plates make this problem hurt even more wtf:angry2: i also want to find a shoe/boot that works good with and without hooks. ems makes a great mountaineering boots the best i ever used and they are great 2 foot-lock prune and remove but cost 225$ and the sole starts 2 peal off after 2 months ems states they stand behind there boots and will replace, refund or fix what ever the customer wants, but this is a crock of chit they have replaced them once 4 me but took 1hr or arguing so i put them on the don't ever do that again list. please:help:

Like most professions, you'll have to spend some money on quality equipment to get it right.

For me it was a combination of Wesco lace to toe steel insert High Climber boots, with Buckingham titanium gaffs and Bashlin steel insert leather spur stays on the gaffs, that allowed me to climb removals with a degree of comfort I was happy with.

For foot locking and climbing trims, Red Wing high top boots with the mechanic's non-skid sole worked best for me, though many other rock climbing boots by various manufacturers are widely used and liked by my friends that trim on a regular basis.

It aint cheap, but if you do it for a living it's well worth the cost to do it right and be comfortable so you can concentrate on your work, not your aching feet etc.

Comfort is the key!

jomoco

 

[(WLL)]

Like most professions, you'll have to spend some money on quality equipment to get it right.

For me it was a combination of Wesco lace to toe steel insert High Climber boots, with Buckingham titanium gaffs and Bashlin steel insert leather spur stays on the gaffs, that allowed me to climb removals with a degree of comfort I was happy with.

For foot locking and climbing trims, Red Wing high top boots with the mechanic's non-skid sole worked best for me, though many other rock climbing boots by various manufacturers are widely used and liked by my friends that trim on a regular basis.

It aint cheap, but if you do it for a living it's well worth the cost to do it right and be comfortable so you can concentrate on your work, not your aching feet etc.

Comfort is the key!

jomoco

thanx jocomo rock climbing boots in usa what r these? u meen moutaineering boots/ice climbers look at page 12 in sherrill 2006 fall catt that is what i want well i think bottom left not top

 

[kkottemann]

Ditto, Wesco or bailey's climbing boots (16" high) with buckinham velcro pads. I like the ones with the steel insert to hold the climbing spur in one spot on my schin. Also the super climbing pads in combo with klein steel climbers works well. for footlocking and spikeless climbing I have an old pair of redwing loggers that I had send back to the factory and put a low heel on. Also danner mountain II hikers are comfortable.

 

[treeman82]

Possibly you need to replace the pads? A few years ago I had some MAJOR problems with my super wrap pads because the padding had just worn out. The steel was starting to dig into my calves and it took several months for the wounds to heal up and go away. My current pads actually need to be replaced soon to avoid the same problem.

 

[Dadatwins]

Could the length of the shank not be adjusted properly? The shank should be adjusted so the pads come right under the knee. Also the pads are left and right so make sure you have them on the right leg.

 

[Manco]

A pair of Geckos and a pair and you will never notice you have spikes during a climb again

 

[GASoline71]

Don't know if you guys like 'em, or have tried 'em... but the cast aluminum "caddie" pads are what I use, and the are very comfy! I am climbing on an older pair of Buckingham permanent spikes.

I'm a big guy 6'5" and around 240 lbs., with high arches. So I make sure my boots have a good steel shank in the instep. I wear logger boots made by Georgia boot. Seem to work well for me, but I doubt you could FL with them.

Wessco carries the "caddies" at a reasonable price. I think Bailey's has them listed too.

Gary

 

[(WLL)]

are ya changin footwear on the job my hook pads are worn and stretched. like i said very strong angle and at bottom of pad where shank is inserted has wear mark in the corner where shank is pushing hard against the angle must be to hard

 

[beowulf343]

are ya changin footwear on the job

You bet your a?? I do. Usually bring a couple pairs of boots/shoes on the job with me. Wescos for the takedowns, hiking boots for spikeless, if a long drag a pair a low-heeled workboots, working in a creek a pair of rubber boots, dragging brush in winter a pair of winter boots with good lugs, etc. Take care of your feet (ie, the right shoes for the right job) and they won't cause you any problems. For example, long brush drags with a high heeled boot kills my back by the end of the day. Simply change to a different boot and it save me alot of pain. (Of course my groundies think I"m crazy.)

Now about the buckingham velcro wrap pads-if the angled design hurts so bad, seems I remember they make a straight design wrap pad with the metal insert. I like the angled though-spent alot of years with the leather L pads and anything feels like heaven after those! Like others have said also, a pair of highliner boots helps alot-an extra bit of leather between the pad and your leg.

 

[(WLL)]

You bet your a?? I do. Usually bring a couple pairs of boots/shoes on the job with me. Wescos for the takedowns, hiking boots for spikeless, if a long drag a pair a low-heeled workboots, working in a creek a pair of rubber boots, dragging brush in winter a pair of winter boots with good lugs, etc. Take care of your feet (ie, the right shoes for the right job) and they won't cause you any problems. For example, long brush drags with a high heeled boot kills my back by the end of the day. Simply change to a different boot and it save me alot of pain. (Of course my groundies think I"m crazy.)

Now about the buckingham velcro wrap pads-if the angled design hurts so bad, seems I remember they make a straight design wrap pad with the metal insert. I like the angled though-spent alot of years with the leather L pads and anything feels like heaven after those! Like others have said also, a pair of highliner boots helps alot-an extra bit of leather between the pad and your leg.

i just started yesterday bringing my gor-tex scarpa hiking boot and wearing my georga gor-tex logger but i got a yellow sherrill bag full of stuff well almost full bag weighs about 2ton and goes every where w/me, and the cold weather dont help. ems moutaineering boots are great, but sole peels in 2 months i wish i could find boots with the agility of rock shoes and the tugged stiffness of moutainboots. did u c the shoes in the bottom left corner of page 12 in the sherrill fall 2006 innovation booklet? spikes on ascent boots is this just 4 show or what if not i need a pair of them

 

[beowulf343]

i just started yesterday bringing my gor-tex scarpa hiking boot and wearing my georga gor-tex logger but i got a yellow sherrill bag full of stuff well almost full bag weighs about 2ton and goes every where w/me, and the cold weather dont help. ems moutaineering boots are great, but sole peels in 2 months i wish i could find boots with the agility of rock shoes and the tugged stiffness of moutainboots. did u c the shoes in the bottom left corner of page 12 in the sherrill fall 2006 innovation booklet? spikes on ascent boots is this just 4 show or what if not i need a pair of them

You're lucky you're only filling a bag. I've got to carry around so much gear (saws, ropes, blocks, tools, etc.) that it fills the back of my truck!
Yeah, I did see those spikes on the ascent boots in the sherrill's magazine. Would probably work as long as you double wrap your lower strap around the shank to keep your spikes from sliding off the back of your foot. I mentioned in a previous post that i've climbed a few times with sneakers-worked ok but would hate to spend any amount of time with them on-the stirrup KILLS your arches! But the foot plate might help alleviate some of that.
Of course, maybe you can only use ascent boots with the geckos-a new selling point!!
But personally, I don't know why you would want to climb with spikes on those shoes-they are not made for it.

 

[JonnyHart]

Don't know if you guys like 'em, or have tried 'em... but the cast aluminum "caddie" pads are what I use, and the are very comfy! I am climbing on an older pair of Buckingham permanent spikes.

I'm a big guy 6'5" and around 240 lbs., with high arches. So I make sure my boots have a good steel shank in the instep. I wear logger boots made by Georgia boot. Seem to work well for me, but I doubt you could FL with them.

Wessco carries the "caddies" at a reasonable price. I think Bailey's has them listed too.

Gary

Second that. Caddie pads and a pair of well made logger or linesman boots.
I've tried the cheap L pads, the T pads, the velcro wrap w/ cinch loop with and without steel insert, and the steel insert leather C pads. The cast aluminum caddies are the most comfortable.

 

[jmack]

Ditto, Wesco or bailey's climbing boots (16" high) with buckinham velcro pads. I like the ones with the steel insert to hold the climbing spur in one spot on my schin. Also the super climbing pads in combo with klein steel climbers works well. for footlocking and spikeless climbing I have an old pair of redwing loggers that I had send back to the factory and put a low heel on. Also danner mountain II hikers are comfortable.

do not use the baileys red dawgs knock offs, the pic does not show this but the heel is shaved making them extremly painful for gaffing

 

[jmack]

whats with the wicked angle? man these pads hurt! how can this be corrected? I have used these pads for 3yrs and so far Buckingham has made no improvements. does anyone else have this problem? my new foot plates make this problem hurt even more wtf:angry2: i also want to find a shoe/boot that works good with and without hooks. ems makes a great mountaineering boots the best i ever used and they are great 2 foot-lock prune and remove but cost 225$ and the sole starts 2 peal off after 2 months ems states they stand behind there boots and will replace, refund or fix what ever the customer wants, but this is a crock of chit they have replaced them once 4 me but took 1hr or arguing so i put them on the don't ever do that again list. please:help:

make sure your pad in fact has a insert, they sell em both ways, boots go with chippewas loggers inexpensive enough, 100-140 depending on the sale

 

[CwbyClmr]

Geckos are the way to go

A pair of Geckos and a pair and you will never notice you have spikes during a climb again

I just bought a pair of Geckos II climbers and I couldn't even tell that I had them on while taking down a huge rock elm last weekend. The combination of the aluminum shank and the fiberglass wrap w/ plenty of cushion really makes them comfy!!!!!
One problem, they came with pole spikes which worked fine on an elm but I'm trying to find the tree gaffs to go on them. Maybe I bought the pole model instead of the tree model. Regardless, I wouldn't trade them for any of those older ones!!!!

 

[TreeTopKid]

Ouch! No pain no gain!

Could the length of the shank not be adjusted properly? The shank should be adjusted so the pads come right under the knee. Also the pads are left and right so make sure you have them on the right leg.

..........

My first pair of spikes years ago were a cheap pair of generic things from a UK supplier. When I took them out of the box I put the pads on thinking it would be nice and comfy with that cushion pad behind the knee! Every step used to hurt!

A voice of experince about six months later explained it would hurt me far less if the pads were on the right way round. The scars lasted a while!

 

[hobby climber]

Don't know if you guys like 'em, or have tried 'em... but the cast aluminum "caddie" pads are what I use, and the are very comfy! I am climbing on an older pair of Buckingham permanent spikes.

I'm a big guy 6'5" and 240 lbs., with high arches. So I make sure my boots have a good steel shank in the instep. I wear logger boots made by Georgia boot. Seem to work well for me, but I doubt you could FL with them.

Wessco carries the "caddies" at a reasonable price. I think Bailey's has them listed too.

Gary

The "Caddie" (Aluminum) pads are the way to go IMO! I've tryed a few other types but nothing...NOTHING... comes close to the comfort & support of the aluminum pads!!! I'm 6'4" & just over 250lbs (fit). My boots have a steel shank so with the buckingham spikes w/Amuminum pads, I hardly feel them on my legs!

Just get them & be done with it! HC