Pull your rubber grommet deal out and look down in there. You'll see two red slot heads. Those are your limiter caps. You'll need some extra light, so shine a light down in there, and turn each in whatever direction you need to in order to see the little tang on each cap line up with the little slot in the carb's body. As you see the tang line up with the slot, you can easily pull the caps off. You may have to put some back into it, but pull, and they'll come out. This will expose your actual carb screws. Cut or sand or grind or whatever the tangs off the caps and you're good to go. It's not a bad idea to have a handfull of extra caps as well. They're dirt cheap from your dealer.
I recommend the proper limiter cap tool from Stihl. At least for myself, as I'm adjusting my carbs, and playing with things often enough to justify the proper tool for the job. That, and the tool costs about $5, so it's cheap as well, and it'll save you the headaches of the sheet metal screw technique and all that. The P/N is 5910 890 4500 A. (I think it's "5910." It's kinda worn off of mine.) It's a left hand thread, so you'll thread it into the caps counter-clockwise. Some dealers will tell you they can't find it, or it's not available, or it doesn't exist or whatever. That's BS. Stay on them until they get it, or find a dealer that can.
As for the dual port cover. It's the best bolt-on power in the chainsaw industry. It jives with warrantee, it takes two minutes to install and you're good to go. I've got one on every saw of mine that will take one. I also increase the hole on the dual port cover as well as the hole on the back shell. Don't get crazy with it, but using some common sense will get you in the ball park. I recommend it as well. It's about $30 from a dealer and is nothing but good for your saw. The P/N 1128 140 0801. Again, some dealers don't even know about it. Stick with him until he gets you one, or find a dealer that will.
Welcome to AS.
Jeff
