The best way to remove the Stihl Seals?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

camel

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
52
Reaction score
1
Location
Germany
Hi,
I am rebuilding my 036 at the moment. To prevent air leaks, i like to change the seals locatet around the Crankshaft (clutch and Ignition)
What is the best Way to remove them without disassembling the body of the saw and seperating the halfes.
Drilling a small hole in them and pull with a hook?
I cant manage it with a small screwdriver....

Thx

ign.jpg

clu.jpg
 
On this same topic, is there a key to separating the two main case of a saw like this?

Joe
 
Camel, Provided that the stihl crank seals can be removed externaly( I do not know if they can) I would heat the area around the seal with a small propane torch to help loosen the seal. Dont get it too hot though. Then take a small seal pulling tool or a small screw driver and pry the seal out. extreme care must be taken not to scratch the crank shaft or the crank case sealing area in any way. If you do it will cause cronic seal leakage problems. bTW clean the thing up before you remove the seals or dirt will migrate in to the crank bearings. Not eactly healthy for bearings to be spinning 13,000 rpm with dirt in them.
 
@walker...
That is extactly the question.
Is it possible to remove them without making Damage?
I think is is a question how tight they are....
They look well, mabe i let them stay there......but i dont want to make half (bad) work.
J.
 
Camel, by looking at the photos you posted it appears that they could be moved without splitting the case. I am not positive though. Just be very careful and for gods sake clean that dirty bugger first. Its really a bad idea to rebuild a saw while its dirty.
 
Camel,
Since you have the saw apart why not go ahead and split the cases? If your going to do a full rebuild do it right. You can then remove both seals without damage to the crank. Also you'll be able to clean that mess up without all the dirt getting in the bearings, and it will. I'd check the main bearings out then they are cheap to replace.
 
@walker
i am at the start of rebuilding the Body. Shurely i will clean it before i do the rebuild.
J.
@pioneer
Maybe you are right...I will split them...
 
If they were not leaking to start, I would have left them alone.
Seal pullers can be had, for a price. They resemble regular
inside pullers, except for their small size. The seals can be pulled
by other devices as well, an offset pick for example. Splitting
a crankcase to remove the seals seems like the hard way to
do it as well. The novice attempting the task can do more harm
than good. If I have a saw with a lean seizure, I determine the
cause, fix it, then replace the piston/rings/ and/or cyl. I do not
waste a lot of time stripping the saw down to individual parts,
to replace gaskets that are fine. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
To split a crankcase is a chore, to reassemble it correctly a
greater chore, and you may create more problems than remedy.
Fish
 
seals

VERY CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the metal shell of the seal. Install a sheet metal screw of the correct size in a short distance (do not screw into the bearing cage). Pull on the screw to remove the seal. The seal on the clutch side will install flush, but check the flywheel before removal and measure the amount of recess, if any.
As for splitting the cases, warm the whole case up before heating around each bearing. Use a plastic dead blow hammer to tap the crank out of the case. The bearings will come out with the crank.
 
Back
Top