timberwolf outdoor stove

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diggindirt

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
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Roscommon,MI
Hi guys kind of new here, just wondering I have a outdoor wood stove,(Wood Eater.) just wondering if any one has made some kind of a propane insert. To take the place of burning wood, in case they go away for a week or so. My Propane furnace went south and do not really want to buy another one. I hope everybodys having a good winter...Thanks Ron.
 
I know my furnace and probally others offer a supplemental fuel hookup for an additional fee. It would cost me around $1,000 to 1,200 to add natural gas/propane/fuel oil kit to my furnace. I just have a switch to kick on my oil furnace for those chilly late spring/early fall nights when the wood furnace is not opened up for the season.
 
LP/NG/fuel oil option for OWB

On the Central Boiler OWB there is a dual fuel option for burning either natural gas, LP gas or fuel oil. But that is when you order them form the factory. I do not think that they are available as a retrofit upgrade later on, becasue you would have to pipe fuel into the sealed boiler somehow to burn it in there.
 
on a timber wolf you could put an pipe in the frount of the stove under the door and put an small burner on in... what size is it 3500 or 5000 or what???

You say it eats alot of wood? what type of underground pipe you running.
Did tim handy sell it to you?
 
Hey MS 310 I bought the stove in Hersey I can not remember the mans name who sold it to me. Really nice fellow though. The stove works very well and does what it says it is suppose to and has not failed me yet in going into my second season of heating with it. I also heat my Hot water and usually have plenty of hot water for the four of us. It does eat alot of wood, but it is still cheaper than propane. I am using 1 inch white pex and the styrofoam box with the two slices for the pipe that was supplied, the total loop is about 160' from my house to the furnace and back, I do believe that (And I am only making an unscientific guess, that this is where i am losing a lot of heat.) I would like to add two more gauges in strategic places so I for sure where it was going(heat). Anyways back to the propane oufit . I know I am picking your brain here but could you explain a little more. Thanks Ron Sergeant.
 
MS310, Oops I am pretty sure it is the 3500 has two feeds and two returns And I did go ahead and put valves on so I do not have to empty the unit when I am ready to heat my small shop. One other question how often should I have to add water at say a water temp of high 180 and low 160.
 
diggindirt said:
Hey MS 310 I bought the stove in Hersey I can not remember the mans name who sold it to me. Really nice fellow though. The stove works very well and does what it says it is suppose to and has not failed me yet in going into my second season of heating with it. I also heat my Hot water and usually have plenty of hot water for the four of us. It does eat alot of wood, but it is still cheaper than propane. I am using 1 inch white pex and the styrofoam box with the two slices for the pipe that was supplied, the total loop is about 160' from my house to the furnace and back, I do believe that (And I am only making an unscientific guess, that this is where i am losing a lot of heat.) I would like to add two more gauges in strategic places so I for sure where it was going(heat). Anyways back to the propane oufit . I know I am picking your brain here but could you explain a little more. Thanks Ron Sergeant.


I have never done the propane thing but Im sure you could rig some thing up...... yes tim handy is a nice man. I going to say it will make your 10 year warnt. go bad. Call Tim handy at timber wolf and ask him about it. if you cant find out my cell is 269-838-2011 and maybe we can hash it out/.
 
Energy losses in OWBs

There are several places that you may be losing energy in your OWB system. One is the boiler itself. If it is not well insulated it will radiate the heat out into space. Next is the PEX lines to the house. If they are well insulated and buried deeper than 2 feet in a cold area (18 inches around here where the ground rarely freezes more than an inch), and kept dry, they should not lose too much heat. From what I know, the biggest place to lose heat on an OWB is through ground water contact with the PEX lines. For that reason I insulated my one inch PEX lines (I used one red line and one blue line for hot out and cool return) with foam and then shoved them into 4 inch corrugated plastic drain pipe. Then I sealed up both ends with that spray foam stuff. The R value is not that great, but the fact that they are away from any water that can rob heat is important. Also the ground is a pretty good insulator.

Another issue can be the wood itself. If you are using wet or green wood it will not heat nearly as well as seasoned dry wood will. Also wood heat value will vary by species. Oak and madrone have 2x the heat value of cottonwood or light pine. That being said, OWBs tend to be wood eaters, and we go through about 5 cords here in fall/winter using ours. That is a mix of medium and hard heavy wood (oak, madrone, doug fir, alder, grand fir, and hard and soft maple). But that is better than the ten cords that the neighbor burns in his fireplace for heating. Milder climate here in the west; temps lately here have been high 20's at night and high 30's during the day. Snowed already here this year two weeks ago. We do not get much snow here. Maybe half a foot of snow a year total. Rain is another matter... we get lots of rain. 6+ feet a year on average.
 
windthrown said:
There are several places that you may be losing energy in your OWB system. One is the boiler itself. If it is not well insulated it will radiate the heat out into space. Next is the PEX lines to the house. If they are well insulated and buried deeper than 2 feet in a cold area (18 inches around here where the ground rarely freezes more than an inch), and kept dry, they should not lose too much heat. From what I know, the biggest place to lose heat on an OWB is through ground water contact with the PEX lines. For that reason I insulated my one inch PEX lines (I used one red line and one blue line for hot out and cool return) with foam and then shoved them into 4 inch corrugated plastic drain pipe. Then I sealed up both ends with that spray foam stuff. The R value is not that great, but the fact that they are away from any water that can rob heat is important. Also the ground is a pretty good insulator.

Another issue can be the wood itself. If you are using wet or green wood it will not heat nearly as well as seasoned dry wood will. Also wood heat value will vary by species. Oak and madrone have 2x the heat value of cottonwood or light pine. That being said, OWBs tend to be wood eaters, and we go through about 5 cords here in fall/winter using ours. That is a mix of medium and hard heavy wood (oak, madrone, doug fir, alder, grand fir, and hard and soft maple). But that is better than the ten cords that the neighbor burns in his fireplace for heating. Milder climate here in the west; temps lately here have been high 20's at night and high 30's during the day. Snowed already here this year two weeks ago. We do not get much snow here. Maybe half a foot of snow a year total. Rain is another matter... we get lots of rain. 6+ feet a year on average.



I dont want to be a pain but, the ground is not a good insulator. Dont talk about R value with conduction heat loss. Im sorry but im really picky on under ground ins. it really is a big deal. I like the pre made stuff (micro flex) but I do agree about the water being the biggest robber.
Holy crap you get alot of rain!!!!!

dont take any of my words as rude. Ok? just maybe clearing up.
 

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