Time to venture into milling

[TraditionalTool]

Yes. They will eventually hold my collector saws that I don't normally run. How thick do you think I should make them?

I would go 8/4 at least, myself. In fact I'm going to cut some ponderosa pine from a cant I have, for similar shelving (not to put collector saws though ), and I'm going to cut them 8/4. I have some maple I had laminated for the corbels. Depending on the length, weight is a consideration. Walnut ain't light.

 

[blsnelling]

I've got to ask a newbie question. What's 8/4? I was thinking something along the lines of 1 3/4".

 

[blsnelling]

I just found this. POST. So basically eight quarters.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I've got to ask a newbie question. What's 8/4? I was thinking something along the lines of 1 3/4".

Brad,

In addition to that link you found, consider that most lumber requires some size for the process of finishing. So an 8/4 piece will only be 1 3/4" in finished size, typically. If you get a finished 8/4 that is a full 2", consider that a blessing (when buying from a store).

There is also an entire list of categories of timber/lumber as well. S2S (surfaced 2 sides), S4S (surfaced 4 sides), S1E (surfaced 1 edge), S&E (side and edge), etc...there are way too many to list...as there is also formulas for calculating for size of knots, how close they are to edge, length of splits at the end, etc...and that will determine that grade as well (#1, #2, or less).

Not trying to confuse you, but buying wood is one of the most complicated ordeals for one to experience, IMO, and it always seem you have to pay for some shortage some where along the line. Whether you like it or not!

Another thing to consider is that you can't just slab them and make shelves out of them unless you will accept good size checking, the wood your cutting will be wet. So plan to let it dry and/or find a kiln to help speed that process up. 8/4 will take 2 years to completely dry out enough to use to build with. You have space, so might be able to build a small kiln in the backyard, possibly, or your garage, or find someone in your area with a kiln. I would make sure to get the ends sealed and let it dry.

 

[mtngun]

I would make sure to get the ends sealed and let it dry.

Ya, add some kind of end sealer to your list. If nothing else, latex paint.

Brad, did you intend to plane these boards ? Got a planer or access to a friend's planer ?

Before attacking the walnut, you might want to practice milling on a less valuable log, to get a feel for how to set up the mill and what kind of things can go wrong.

Please, please, please, don't post a pictures of yourself milling on your knees.

Or you may receive a few ergonomics pointers.

 

[Kicker_92]

I've got a 3/8 sprocket tip ready to put on the 36" bar. 7-pin, or 8-pin rim on this 084?

I'm using an 8-pin with 3/8" chain on the 880. On the 385xp I have a 7-pin also using 3/8" chain.

I would suggest going with the 8-pin unless you get into some really big slabs. With the shorter pitch chain and milling, you need to keep the chain speed up. The 084 should have no problems pulling that setup in 20" hardwood.

 

[Daninvan]

I think the thickness that you should cut your wood depends on the details of how you plan to "hold your collector saws". I'm assuming as are the others that this means shelves? So, how much weight are you expecting them to hold and what will the span between supports be? You can Google shelf span chart and gets lots of info to help you decide what thickness you need to minimize sagging.

I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons. Of course it still may be desirable for aesthetic reasons, or if you are intending to span a long distance. The thinner you cut your slabs, the more of them you are likely to get.

In any case, I'd probably start with a cut that is 1/2" over my final desired thickness (I don't cut as smoothly as many others apparently! :hmm3grin2orange, dry it for a year or two, then flatten one side (with a wide jointer, planer sled, etc) and then use planer for the other side. Cut the back edge flat so it'll snug up against the wall. The front you can cut parallel to the back, or leave the natural edge exposed if you prefer that.

Sounds like a fun project. I think the time required for drying may be an issue for you though.

Dan

 

[BobL]

I think the thickness that you should cut your wood depends on the details of how you plan to "hold your collector saws". I'm assuming as are the others that this means shelves? So, how much weight are you expecting them to hold and what will the span between supports be? You can Google shelf span chart and gets lots of info to help you decide what thickness you need to minimize sagging.

I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons. Of course it still may be desirable for aesthetic reasons

If that is the case then another approach is to cut the slabs at 1 1/4" finish to 1" and then glue 2" wide strip across the front of the shelf, quicker to dry and looks almost as good.

 

[huskyhank]

Its time to:

1) Visualize your shelf project in the place where it will reside.
(look around the web at some slab furniture builders)

2) Then make a scale sketch on graph paper.
(big pad, 2 X 3 feet of 1" squares)

3) Then a cut list to near finish dimensions.

4) Then a milling list to fulfill the above.

5) A drying scheme.

You have complete freedom at this point to make anything you want. You could go rustic and build it green and let it dry in place. You could make it as simple or as elaborate as you choose.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I doubt that you would need something as thick as 1 3/4" for structural reasons.

That is true, I hate 4/4 shelves, they look so friggin whimpy!

Bob's way would work, but 8/4 looks way better, IMO. Live edge that is drawknifed looks cool...

BTW, not a bad idea to think about splitting the slabs down the middle/pith if the log is big enough.

 

[blsnelling]

I thought I would probably make supports out of milled wood as well, perhaps a blonder wood to add some contrast. There's a hard Maple log I plan to mill as well. That would add nice contrast. How far apart I put them is up in the air. The can be as close as every 16".

I figure I'll have a saw every couple of feet. I'm talking about saws like my 07S, 08S, both S10s, 076 PHO, 048, 038 Mag, 028. They will all have bars, sans the 076. So I figure there'll probably be a saw every 18" or so, with them setting at an angle.

I had thought that I would leave the outer edge uncut for a more rustic look. But I do like Bobs idea of making the shelves 1" and gluing a front on them. That would make me a lot more pieces of lumber out of this log too. You've got me nailed, it will be very hard for me to let this wood dry for 2 years, lol

 

[BobL]

RE: "I will not be accepting port work for a while. Here's why."

Brad, now that you have entered this forum you could be doing even less porting work - this milling stuff stuff is all consuming.

 

[1947wdx]

RE: "I will not be accepting port work for a while. Here's why."

Brad, now that you have entered this forum you could be doing even less porting work - this milling stuff stuff is all consuming.

Given that

1. Bob is thinking about starting to design and build a new mill,
2. Brad is one of the resident experts on saw modifications

I propose that you two guys put your heads together and come up with the most bad AS* chainsaw mill out there.

Then instead of everyone wanting to cut cookies, they'll be milling slabs...

 

[BobL]

I had thought that I would leave the outer edge uncut for a more rustic look. But I do like Bobs idea of making the shelves 1" and gluing a front on them. That would make me a lot more pieces of lumber out of this log too. You've got me nailed, it will be very hard for me to let this wood dry for 2 years, lol

There's no reason why you cannot have both. Mill half at 2" and half at 1" - then rip the wain off both and glue the 2" wain to the 1" boards. You get what you want and also have a a heap of 2" boards left over to do something else with.

 

[TraditionalTool]

There's no reason why you cannot have both. Mill half at 2" and half at 1" - then rip the wain off both and glue the 2" wain to the 1" boards. You get what you want and also have a a heap of 2" boards left over to do something else with.

:agree2:

I wouldn't cut yourself short of larger stock, but if you want to get at it sooner, 1 inch will reduce that in half, approx. Laminating lumber sucks, so why I prefer larger when possible.

Unfortunately milling is not an instant gradification, unless your building with green logs, then it doesn't matter!

 

[MostShady1]

Support it as best you can (every stud) and build it green, Brad!!! I'm dying to see pics of the new display!opcorn:

 

[blsnelling]

I had every intention of buying a 36" mill, and even had one in my Baileys shopping cart. But tonight I dropped a beautiful 32"-36" Oak, and am now thinking perhaps I should go ahead and get the 48" mill. I've already got a 50" bar, so why not? It'll be a little bulkier to handle, but there won't be much it can't handle.

 

[BobL]

I had every intention of buying a 36" mill, and even had one in my Baileys shopping cart. But tonight I dropped a beautiful 32"-36" Oak, and am now thinking perhaps I should go ahead and get the 48" mill. I've already got a 50" bar, so why not? It'll be a little bulkier to handle, but there won't be much it can't handle.

You can always put a 36" bar on a 48" mill - I leave my 64" rails on my mill for bars between 36 and 60"

 

[Brmorgan]

Brad, since you're getting set up to mill a Walnut log, this PDF might be of interest to you:

Walnut Logs and How To Prepare Them

Or at least that's how it was done in 1888!


I'm not sure how you'll find the time to fit milling into your schedule! You might end up not taking any port work for longer than planned, it can be addicting!

 

[blsnelling]

Would a 48" mill be significantly harder to handle and keep level in 20" wood than a 36" mill? Or would the added length just help balance out the power head?