To Wrap or not to Wrap?

[Lanelle]

I was looking at the specifications for a commercial bid and the LA is spec'ing the use of tree wrap paper (crepe type) on the newly installed trees. Seems that I have heard opinions both ways on the advisablity of doing this. Does it protect the tree or just invite rot and insects? There is also the spec to use black corregated plastic pipe on the trunk just above the root flare. I'd love to hear your opinions.
Thanks,
Lanelle

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Short term used of tape and pipe will protect the trunk durring transport and instalation. I would recomend adding criteria to remove protection as a final step in the instalation.

Another thing I would like to see is a requirment for basal fair to be exposed, at least in specimine trees so to reduce girdling root mortality in the future.

 

[jimmyq]

Usually I recommend the temporary tree wrap (paper or fabric style) for the first three months after install. It helps to prevent "Mower and Trimmer disease" that befalls many trees. Also it definately helps during shipping to use the coroplast protective sleeves on the trunk during shipping, too many marked and damaged trunks from the B+B wire baskets smacking and rubbing their neighbors. There is a type of trunk protector that is rigid plastic coiled over the trunk with holes cored through it to enable air flow (Monrovia Growers use these), I think this might be a good protector for damp areas to help prevent bark decomposition that the other wraps may incur.

 

[jimmyq]

To follow on JPS's basal flare comment, I would love to see a more in depth planting detail for most trees followed to a letter by "landscrapers" that do most of the commercial installs. Basal flare could be worked into a mulching detail easily and may even be followed at the site!

 

[Dan F]

"I would love to see a more in depth planting detail for most trees followed to a letter by "landscrapers" that do most of the commercial installs. Basal flare could be worked into a mulching detail easily and may even be followed at the site! "

Paul,

It has been a while since I have seen specs for a bid job like what was being described. However, most of them that I have seen specify that the root flare be at the proper height at the time of planting.

The problem comes when the LA firm/project management firm doesn't do their job and lets things slide. I have seen it happen all too often.

Unfortunately, many landscapers either aren't educated enough or don't care enough to ensure proper planting. Plain and simple, it just takes too long. Auger the hole with the skidsteer, pick up the tree with the forks, drop it in the hole, stand it up straight, have the migrant labor backfill and throw another 4-6 inches of soil on top of the ball and then mulch. The tree is lucky if it is watered. As long as it lives a year (typical warantee period), the company is usually fine with it.
As a landscaper, I know the proper techniques and am fortunate enough to work for a company that cares about the long term and lets me do things properly. I just wish there were more like us.


Dan

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I think the biggest problem is growers not doing anything prior to harvest.

If they would use something like an airspade a few months before, they could probably add an inch to caliper and make more money.

I regualrly say that the 1 year warrenty is a marketing red herring.

I wish we could find a rich client who would sue an installer to set presidance in court. "Oh they planted my $3000 trees too deep 5 years ago!!!"

 

[Dan F]

" I wish we could find a rich client who would sue an installer to set presidance in court. "Oh they planted my $3000 trees too deep 5 years ago!!!" "

Hmmmm...... Almost had that early last year in the spring.

The company I was laid off from last fall was contacted by a builder early last spring who was doing some remodeling for an NBA player. Another company had come in and planted 100 trees, charged $400 per tree, mostly 6-7' spruce trees. In walking around on the property, I don't think we found a tree that wasn't buried under less than 4 inches of soil and at least 6 inches of mulch.

We were supposed to come in and install some lighting and then fix the trees. The original company would have then been back-charged for fixing the trees. We never did do anything more than install some lighting due to our unwillingness to put up with the BS from the "manager" of the NBA player though. I still don't know what ever happened on the site as far as fixing things.


"I think the biggest problem is growers not doing anything prior to harvest. If they would use something like an airspade a few months before, they could probably add an inch to caliper and make more money."

I would have to agree with this. If they would use Round-up for weed control instead of cultivators they wouldn't have the problem to begin with. Or, if when they originally lined them out, they planted them at the right depth and staked them. It all comes down to education. Most growers don't know they could easily sell what they have tagged as an 1 1/2" tree as a 2" tree if they would remove the soil from the top of the flare. Or they could sell it as a 1 1/2" tree a year or two earlier. Some of the growers here in Indiana are starting to change their minds on how they are growing trees, but it is a slow process.

I almost don't want them to start growing them right though. In our case, we know what we are looking for, and if we get a 1 1/2" tree, plant it right and it turns out to be a 2" tree, we can charge for a 2" tree. The downside to that is if the grower thinks they have a 1 1/2" tree, they will dig it per ANSI standards for a 1 1/2" tree, not the 2" tree it really is. Which means you are not getting as many roots as you should, which affects the long term viability of the tree.

I don't know how many girdling roots/potential girdling roots I have found in the process of uncovering the root flare. Too many to count, that is for sure. Two weeks ago I planted a small Japanese maple. I found the root flare and with it, two roots that made a perfect box around the trunk. I cut the roots, and hopefully the tree will live. It would have lived a full and happy life otherwise -- at least for about 5-10 years until it started choking itself!


"I regualrly say that the 1 year warrenty is a marketing red herring. "

Going out on a limb here, but the 1 year warranty for most landscapes won't affect 99% of the trees that are installed, but it will take care of a significant percentage of the shrubs and perennials. If the shrubs and perennials are going to die, most will do it in the first year after installation.

The aforementioned company I used to work for did an installation 2 years ago that totaled well over $300k. The clients were given a two year warranty. Last spring we probably replaced between $20-$30k (labor included) worth of plants, mainly due to poor site conditions (i.e. heavy clay soils, p*ss poor drainage). I have no idea how many they replaced this spring, but I'm sure that number wasn't low either.

Another company I worked for while in college was talking about (though I don't know if they ever did it or not) giving a lifetime warranty on all plants installed as long as they did the maintenance. That would be the way to go, if you were confident in your ability and in mother nature!


Dan

 

[Gopher]

suits me

I've got a client (JPS air-knifed there for me!) who are ready to file to receive their money back three years after a local landscape firm planted three good sized evergreens. Note that I did not mention the word "tree". One spruce is forked at the base and everything possible was incorrectly done at planting (we didn't spend five seconds on this one.)

These people called me in and want all of their trees cared for. She said it must be difficult in a small community to bring up some of these issues. I said "No it's not. You did not call me here because your trees looked great. I found out why they don't, and there really isn't any problem discussing these finds with the installers."

Thank you all for pushing what you know.

Gopher

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I think the life warrentee is overdoing it, unless it is worded that you will replace with juvenile stock, not replcement cost or CoC.

I have often talked about a 4-5 year warentee if you have a management contract, maybe sell the plant at 4x cost vs 3x (the usual practice around here). My feelings aon this are that transplant problems can manefest this far out, after that the internal CHO reserves are usualy gone.