Tractor mounted saw box

[Bigsnowdog]

I use a four wheel drive utility tractor as my mule in the trees. I would like to build something for it to carry two saws, log chains and related items, including oil and fuel. My thought was that I would build a new ballast box for the tractor with accommodations in it to properly hold the saws.

What other items, based upon your experience, would you accommodate in such a box? It will be about 5 feet wide and 18-24 inches deep, 24-36 inches tall, made from 1 inch plate, with enough concrete as necessary to bring the total weight up to 1,500 pounds.

I am curious as to your opinion on this. Should I just make rectangular spaces with some dividers and cover all the surfaces with old carpet? Keep in mind that when moving over the terrain, traveling along, there could be some bumping around of the tractor and the contents of the box. Or, should I make this up so the saw bars are clamped to hold the saws still? I will be using this to carry a Stihl 460 and an 009 [someday to be replaced by a 260].

I have also considered fitting a good sized bench vise to this ballast box somewhere, as well as fittings to attach log chains The reason is that when I have done chain filing, it has worked well to put the chain bar in a big vise. I know there are these things you call stump vises, but I wonder if people actually use them. Do you just put the saw on the ground, or the tailgate, and file away? The neighbor farmer’s kids used to rest while sitting on the ground, and when they were not sawing, they were filing. They had no vise.

Any thought on any of this would be appreciated.

 

[Husky372]

i only have one suggestion for you. when you build it take it to your nearest rihno or line x dealer and have the inside done. i did the tool box that rides in my truck and it helps keep things from sliding.

 

[Bigsnowdog]

Originally posted by Husky372
i only have one suggestion for you. when you build it take it to your nearest rihno or line x dealer and have the inside done. i did the tool box that rides in my truck and it helps keep things from sliding.

That is a good idea.....

 

[redpowerd]

this is going on the front of the tractor, or rear?
if your not using your three point hitch for a winch, mount it there.
it would be detached easily in the woods.
if your fenders are large enough, you may be able to mount saws.
are the tires filled, is there weights on the front? weights on the rear rims? theres ways to balance/ballast tractors without the inconvience and space of a box that large.
id look into mounting an equipment box away from the buisness end of your mule.
i think the rear of my tractor( IH684-62.5hp) has close to 1000#of ballast in the tires and on the rims. the front is powerd axle and bucket iron.
hope this helps
need more info.

 

[Bigsnowdog]

Originally posted by redpowerd
this is going on the front of the tractor, or rear?
if your not using your three point hitch for a winch, mount it there.
it would be detached easily in the woods.
if your fenders are large enough, you may be able to mount saws.
are the tires filled, is there weights on the front? weights on the rear rims? theres ways to balance/ballast tractors without the inconvience and space of a box that large.
id look into mounting an equipment box away from the buisness end of your mule.
i think the rear of my tractor( IH684-62.5hp) has close to 1000#of ballast in the tires and on the rims. the front is powerd axle and bucket iron.
hope this helps
need more info.

The ballast goes on the rear, since there is a loader on the front. The fenders are fiberglass and really not large enough to present enough space to mount such things, either.

I don’t like ballast in tires for several reasons. There are times when traveling across soft turf that it is good to not have ballast. This is a John Deere 5500 73hp four wheel drive utility, which typically came stock with cast wheels. I special ordered it with steel wheels, which are lighter [they were also less money], so I could have it as light as possible during certain circumstances.

I also don’t like the complications in tire repair that result from ballast, and the complications that result in tractor service, maneuvering a very heavy, fluid filled rear wheel in my shop.

Thanks....

 

[redpowerd]

understood with the ballast problem, we have some very large tires on the farm, so we have a tire guy for that.
you can get removable cast weights for your rims.

so i guess your box will be of the 3 point hitch type? suppose you could encorperate whatever you wanted in it. cement on bottom, sawbox on top.
dont forget about hitch sway, and the lessend mobility with the box sticking off the back.
you use the tractor for skidding?
does the loader detach in a snap?

 

[Bigsnowdog]

Originally posted by redpowerd
understood with the ballast problem, we have some very large tires on the farm, so we have a tire guy for that.
you can get removable cast weights for your rims.

so i guess your box will be of the 3 point hitch type? suppose you could encorperate whatever you wanted in it. cement on bottom, sawbox on top.
dont forget about hitch sway, and the lessend mobility with the box sticking off the back.
you use the tractor for skidding?
does the loader detach in a snap?

If I had a tire repair issue, I would phone a tire service, but for other matters, that is not practical.

So, yes, it will be a 3-point mount, as short as possible so it does not stick out to the rear any more than necessary. There is absolutely no sway because there are struts that adjust like turnbuckles. You have to have that for something like a 3-point mower.

 

[Mange]

If you have a loader, perhaps foks monted amost always, Why not make a box you can put on/off extreamly easy?

Mange

 

[Bigsnowdog]

I have thought about that, but when traveling along in the woods it is often useful to be able to push things upon arrival, so it is good to not have to unload the box first. Still a possibility, however.

 

[Bobcat]

Northern Tool has a 3-pt hitch unit for under $100. It is a cat-1 and the two legs are not the strongest. I bought one, but now thinking of getting a set of 3-pt forks for on back to hold the "saw box" I plan on making. The forks are obviously much heavier metal and should not crumble if I back into something. When you get the "saw box" built. how about posting a picture. I have a JD 6220 and loaded the tires --just too much weight digging into soft gound with R1's. Bob

 

[Mange]

There is only one I have seen, homemaid that he simply put on the forks. He had waire (handy if you get stuck) and small legs to put out (when pulling down), upon arraival he set it down and used forks loading wood on trailer, when moving he stuck forks in it and off he go. To me it`s as simple as it gets.

Mange

 

[Bobcat]

That was going to be my attachment design. I was going to make a couple of very spacious areas for the forks to go in & out so that the box could be load & unloaded quickly. No need for precision fitting here. I figured that would give me a easy on-off saw box, and a set of forks is always useful. bob

 

[redpowerd]

if you have a tire repair service,
then whats the prob with calcium?
why worry about heavy tires when you have someone who deals with them?
confused

oh, i have a third hitch mower that runs off the ass of my 460D
i havent detached it in 5 yrs

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I made a ballast bar for the front of my ATV. It was a piece of 4x6 tubing filled with concrete. After I built it I realized that steel is denser and I had some nice pieces of three inch diameter round stock that would have been nice looking. Use steel instead of concrete, its heavier.

 

[BigSawMan]

He could put 1000+ lbs of lead shot in it, I think that it might take up less room, and leave more room for your tools.


Neil

 

[sedanman]

Go to a tire shop and ask for their used wheel weights. They are often happy to get rid of them.....................FREE!