Trying to start off CSM'ing on the right foot!(sprocket and raker question)

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Ibow

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Hi All!

I'm ready to get started on my first attempt at CSM'ing I'm using a Husky 395xp with 37'' bar, Alaskan Mill, with an auxillary Oiler and converted full comp .58 chisel tooth to milling chain.
However I'm confused about 7 or 8 tooth sprocket... I was told that switching the 7 out for an 8 will increase the RPM that the huskies like.....? Is that true? What are the pro's,con's of the two?
Also, how does different raker depth affect the milling process?

Thanks again! and happy milling!
 
i run a modded stihl 084 and i stepped down to the 7 tooth as far as the husky goes they are more of a rpm machine but in cs milling grunt is what you want when it comes down to it...for the price prob wouldnt hurt to have both.....goodluck and make some sawdust
 
Hi All!

I'm ready to get started on my first attempt at CSM'ing I'm using a Husky 395xp with 37'' bar, Alaskan Mill, with an auxillary Oiler and converted full comp .58 chisel tooth to milling chain.
However I'm confused about 7 or 8 tooth sprocket... I was told that switching the 7 out for an 8 will increase the RPM that the huskies like.....? Is that true? What are the pro's,con's of the two?
Also, how does different raker depth affect the milling process?

Thanks again! and happy milling!

My experience with the different sprockets is chain speed. My mill is 134cc's and operates now at about 8,200rpm with lots of torque. I had been using a 7 tooth sprocket and jumped to an 8 tooth. As per BobL's calculation, it increase the chain speed to a bit more that 14%. The sprocket did speed up the chain speed, thus reducing milling time.

Since you have a 95cc motor and the Husky's have good torque, swapping out to a 8 tooth sprocket is an expensive way to try speed up milling production. Can't hurt to try one...

jerry-
 
7 tooth. The engine speed will adjust to match the load.

If your rakers are too high, you'll have to push hard on the CSM to make it bite.

I'd suggest a minimum of 6 degree rakers, and 7 or 8 degrees might be appropriate depending on your wood.
 
The drive tooth count and raker depth (or more correctly angle) are closely related.

If you use an 8 tooth sprocket you won't be able to use as high a raker angle and vice versa.
The engine adjusts its rpm to match the load applied so either way you should end up with the same cutting speed.

However it is easier to swap drive sprockets than adjust the raker angles so in small diam logs where chain speeding is the limiting factor you can use both a higher drive tooth count and a higher raker angle so its worth keeping an 8 tooth handy for this situation. In large dia logs you will find a 7 does a bit better.
 
Hi All,

Thanks for all the advice!

I'm really going to have to do some real reaserch on all that can been done with chainsaw's. It's really amazing how differently you can tune these machines.
I'm mostly milling LodgePole pine, Sub Alpine Fir and perhaps the occasional Birch.

I'll order both and switch them in and out as per suggested.

Thanks!
 

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