TS760 conversion to dedicated milling saw or cut saw.

[betterbuilt]

I bought a TS760 last year and have been robbing parts from it for a while. I decide to put it back together as a dedicated milling saw. I plan on adding auxiliary oilers because the saw doesn't have any provisions for an oiler.

This Case also doesn't have anywhere to put a chain tensioner so I plan on adding it to the mill. I'm still in the planing stages so I'd like some input on how to add an a tensioner between the bar/mill and the saw.

I plan on running .325 .063 chain on a 42 inch bar.

I'm Milling a 48 inch sycamore this weekend and I plan on trying it out on the first few cuts.

I'm also working on converting a TS760 to a 076 and might finish tomorrow if all goes well.

 

[SawGarage]

BOB?? where are you bob? :dunno: :help:

I think he's set up off-the-saw tensioner on his mill....

opcorn:


Nice stuff Bill!

J

 

[betterbuilt]

BOB?? where are you bob? :dunno: :help:

I think he's set up off-the-saw tensioner on his mill....

opcorn:


Nice stuff Bill!

J

Thanks J

I was wanting to put the tensioner between the saw and the up right on the mill. I was thinking it could be similar to how Grangberg helper handle works. Bill

 

[820wards]

BOB?? where are you bob? :dunno: :help:

I think he's set up off-the-saw tensioner on his mill....

opcorn:


Nice stuff Bill!

J

Here is the chain tensioner I built for my mill. Hope this helps.

jerry-


The pin that fits into the bar to adjust the tension protrudes on the back plat that is next to the bar.

You can see that the back plate is also slotted to allow for chain adjustment.

 

[betterbuilt]

That's pretty cool Jerry. I like that even better than what I was thinking. I wont even loose bar length that way.

 

[SawGarage]

Jerry,

That rearmost plate is bolted to the crankcase, correct?

ehh.. nevermind. I see how it's built :bang: took me a FEW minutes!! LOL


cool man!

J

 

[820wards]

That's pretty cool Jerry. I like that even better than what I was thinking. I wont even loose bar length that way.

Betterbuilt,

I found that design in a book my daughter bought me about chainsaws. It is easy when changing chains because there is no cover to remove, just loosen the bolts and the adjustment bolt loosens the chain. I made the pieces from 1/4" thick flat stock. The piece where the adjustment bolt goes through is made from 3/8" thick stock. It could be made from 1/4", I just used 3/8" because I had some small pieces that worked for me.

Be sure to make the pin that adjusts the bar from round stock the same diameter as the hole in your bar. Also, don't round of the protruding edge too much, you want the shoulder to be square because the bar is not that thick and it could slip out if your bolts aren't tight enough when adjusting. I looked to see if I had a picture of that piece, but I guess I never took one.

Let me know if you have any questions. Once you start making the pieces you'll see it isn't going to be difficult.

jerry-

 

[820wards]

Jerry,

That rearmost plate is bolted to the crankcase, correct?

ehh.. nevermind. I see how it's built :bang: took me a FEW minutes!! LOL


cool man!

J

SawGarage,

That plate is on top of the bar, then the adjustment plate.

jerry-

 

[betterbuilt]

SawGarage,

That plate is on top of the bar, then the adjustment plate.

jerry-

I think he might be talking about the piece of aluminum in the back.

 

[BlueRider]

Another option would be to look for a 051 or 075 with a blown top end. if you go with an 051 you need to use the later version. on a 051 all the parts will transfer over from a TS 760 with the only nessesary mods being to drill and tap the cylinder mounting holes for the larger M5 studs. The carbs from the 051,075,076, and ts 760 will all interchange with no problems or mods.

The other modification you will need to make to the ts 760 is to add a spark arester to the muffler, at least the 760 i picked up for pards didn't have one.

 

[betterbuilt]

This 076 was a striped down version. It didn't have any provisions for and oiler or a chain adjuster. It did have a make shift spark arester. I kinda like it because there is less to go wrong. I have plans on converting a Ts510 and I have another Ts760 that has the provisions for an oiler and a chain adjuster. Well I finished the chain adjuster and have pictures but I'm having computer issues. I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow. I'm planing on taking some data so I can compare it to dual power heads in the future. I'm excited to see the difference in the .325 vs the .375. I'm planing on running them both tomorrow.

 

[Timberframed]

Godspeed with the Sycamore. You should rip right through it with your arsenal. Might be Scottish Plane. Little difference but a difference it might be. Two fruits to a bunch or three. I milled a Sycamore that had been felled for 6 months or so and it kind of splayed apart after 2 months of dry time. Highly sought after wood for furniture and such.

 

[betterbuilt]

Godspeed with the Sycamore. You should rip right through it with your arsenal. Might be Scottish Plane. Little difference but a difference it might be. Two fruits to a bunch or three. I milled a Sycamore that had been felled for 6 months or so and it kind of splayed apart after 2 months of dry time. Highly sought after wood for furniture and such.

I was Just thinking about end sealer. that one thing I didn't pack yet. This is my first suburbia tree. Land of lookie-lous and 20 penny nails. I'm told there are a few different types of sycamore. I have worked with some spalted sycamore before but I don't have a lot of experience with it.

 

[BlueRider]

The case on the TS 760 abd the 076/075 are the same, which means all the provisions for a bar adjuster and oiler are there. To add a bar adjuster all you need are the two parts,what looks like a section of threadded rod with a screw drver slot in on end and a nut with a tab on the side that engages the bar adjuster hole in the bar. The cover plate is only necessary to direct the bar oil from the oil pump. these parts should all be available from you local dealer or ebay. In my mind the original bar adjuster would be the easiest solution and should only cost about $10-15. if you look at an IPL you could probably fabricate someting that would simulate the stock parts using the stock location.

It has been a while since I replaced a oil pump on one of these saws but from what I remember the crak on the TS 760 looks different from the 076. The oil bump consists of a work wgear that goes on the crank and te pump and a seal the are inserted throughthe access opening at the end of the case> it has a odd shaped plastic plug. There would be no need to add the manual oiler. The oil pump parts are not avaiable from a dealer and are pricy when you find them in good condition. A remote bar end oiler worl probabe be the best choice.

 

[betterbuilt]

This saw has no place for the adjuster. It also has not place for an oiler.

In this picture you can see than there is no place for the oiler to go.

To add an oiler to a TS760, that has the hole for an oiler you have to split the case and add a oil pickup/sump. I have one on the bench that has all the provisions. I have a few spare oil pumps just in case I ever need them.

 

[BlueRider]

Interesting that they would leave the oil tank but go to the expence of removing the acces port for the pump. seems odd that that part of the case where the pump is would be a solid block of metal.

I have a Ts 760 case with the pump and bar adjuster areas intact. it is yours for the cost of shiping. The bearings are shot, but the crank is still in the case.

I have two differetn 051's. One is an early model and the other is a late model. The reason I mention this is that they have different bearings on the flywheel end of the crank. Since you have two different versions of the TS 760 you might wan't to check the cranks before accepting my offer of a free case.

 

[betterbuilt]

Interesting that they would leave the oil tank but go to the expence of removing the acces port for the pump. seems odd that that part of the case where the pump is would be a solid block of metal.

I have a Ts 760 case with the pump and bar adjuster areas intact. it is yours for the cost of shiping. The bearings are shot, but the crank is still in the case.

I have two differetn 051's. One is an early model and the other is a late model. The reason I mention this is that they have different bearings on the flywheel end of the crank. Since you have two different versions of the TS 760 you might wan't to check the cranks before accepting my offer of a free case.

I have a crank here that is good but it is different than all the other cranks I have. It has the 1111 stamped on it just like all my other cranks. I'm realizing there is something different with them. I also have two different size oiler gears which is kinda irritating because one size doesn't fit my saws. I'm interested in the case but now you have me wondering if I want it. Do you think they just changed the inside diameter of the bearing and the cases are the same? I'll check on the odd ball crank I have because it had one of the bearing still on it.

 

[820wards]

I think he might be talking about the piece of aluminum in the back.

The aluminum piece you see in the back is what I milled to thickness to center the bar with the drive sprocket. This picture is before it was cut to match the curved profile of the bar. The piece is drilled with the oiling hole for the manual pump I built. It is drilled and tapped from the back side for the oil line connection. I used a porting tool with a pointed carbide tip to create an oil channel on each side of the hole so as I adjust the bar-chain tension it will always find the oil hole in the bar.

jerry-

 

[Timberframed]

Before I left the shop today I was looking at my mills and saws and got to thinking.....You just might be a redneck if.....











Your chainsaw is worth more than your pickup truck!

 

[betterbuilt]

Well here's a picture of the tensioner I put together. It worked really well. However the day I was to try it out It did not start. I ended up switching the sawmill over to the 076 stihl.

Well I did make 6.5 slabs that were pretty amazing but I spent the day pretty much having one thing after another go wrong. I made a video a posted it. What you can't see is the TS760 not starting and me having to switch over to the 076. I'd have to say this was one of my worse days milling. I couldn't seem to file a chain like I was last year. I'd have to say Murphy was hanging around all day long. I hope My luck changes because I have a lot of trees to mill.

I couldn't seem to file a chain like I was last year. I never received milling Nirvana(self feeding). Mostly because I couldn't lift the 5300lb log with my floor jack that decided to stop lifting that day also. That floor jack has earned it's keep. I normally wouldn't have had anyone on the other side of the mill.
[video=youtube;SkTAOBO6cBQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SkTAOBO6cBQ[/video]

What you don't see is:
I decide to stop for the day half way down the Pith board. I shut the camera off and cleaned up my tools. I went back and started my saw and about 6 more inches it shut off. Well I knew something was wrong so I didn't try to start it again.




Back to the shop I went. Upon the brake down of the Ts760 I found the coil wire Had disconnected at the plug. I can't believe I missed it. The little wire thing that clips on the plus had some how slipped next to the wire in the boot. Just in case I broke it the rest of the way down and pressure tested and vacuum tested it. It came out very good.

The 076 didn't fare a well. I broke it down and pressure tested it and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't hold any pressure. Well I then vacuum tested it and I could hear it sucking at the decompression plug. Well now that I knew where it was leaking I finished the break down. It seems the decomp plug had just given up and It melted the Stihl Piston. The cylinder is fine.


On a better note: I found a bottom end for my 066 yesterday.