TW-P1 questions

[e-d0uble]

Greetings all. Long time no post. I'm lucky enough to have gotten a TimberWolf TW-P1 splitter for a great price, just in time to split up the 8 or so cords of rounds in my driveway for this winter. The splitter came with the log lift and the table grate. I have a few questions, and would truly appreciate any help.

- I did notice that there is a slight fluid leak on the opposite end of the control handle. It seems the round recessed end spins and can't be tightened - this is where the fluid leaks from. Would I need to replace this part or is there perhaps a way to fix? I can provide a picture tomorrow if need be.

- The table grate works well, but mounting it seems a little odd with the ball coupler attached as it sits funny and falls off after a while. Would I need to remove the ball coupler/hitch to mount it properly? It seems that way.

thanks all!

 

[Jon E]

I have a P1. The fluid leak appears to be normal, I have it too. I wouldn't worry about it. The table grate is indeed awkward and it sits on top of the latch on the ball coupler. What I do is take the safety chains and hook them into the end of the table grate so that it at least stays on the splitter. I've had it get pushed out by a wedged split and fall on the ground, until I started using the chains. It's not an ideal solution but it works. I haven't come up with a better solution yet.

 

[goosegunner]

My table grate has a 1/4" pin that goes through the beam of the splitter and both sides of the table grate i-beam material. It is a small version of a hitch pin.

The table grate cannot fall off, but you do have to be careful not to lodge a piece against it when pushing through.

gg

 

[e-d0uble]

Thanks for the replies. Just so I'm sure, is this (picture attached) the source of your leak as well? I ran the splitter for a few hours today and I'd say several tablespoons of fluid wept out. I hope this isn't an issue. I spoke with the dealer who originally sold the splitter to the fella I got it from and he said that it was likely no big deal either, but I could likely get it fixed for very little $. My table grate has no pin, would be great if it did - but as Jon E mentioned, I've used the chains to somewhat secure it in place.

 

[blacklocst]

I know if I had a leak I'd want to get it fixed, especially if it was for little money. A couple of table spoons here and there and the next thing you know your missing a gallon of hydraulic fluid$$$

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Leaks are like life,

They just happen. Most likely getting a little blow by from either wear or contamination on one of the spool seals.

That valve should be a Prince model LS 3000-1. They can be found online for around $100 or less if you decide to replace it. That valve can also be rebuilt, not difficult, just be sure to keep any dirt or crap from getting in while it's apart. Pretty sure the Prince part number for that valve's seal kit is 60530001.

Another alternative, should you decide to replace the valve, is to install the Prince Auto-Cycle valve. Speeds up the splitting process by allowing you to stage the next piece while the machine does its thing. I've installed several on the TW-P1. Takes about an hour and total cost for the valve, hoses and fittings runs about $350 if memory serves.

Should you decide to rebuild or replace the valve at some point, be sure to install a gauge in the system while you're at it. Will be a tremendous help in diagnosing any hydraulic issues down the road should they occur.

Take Care

 

[e-d0uble]

Great,and thanks. I think I'll go the route of replacing the LS 3000-1. If I were to do this, aside from installation, would I need to adjust it? I see there's an adjustable relief valve, and I'd be a little nervous about not setting it up properly.

Leaks are like life,

They just happen. Most likely getting a little blow by from either wear or contamination on one of the spool seals.

That valve should be a Prince model LS 3000-1. They can be found online for around $100 or less if you decide to replace it. That valve can also be rebuilt, not difficult, just be sure to keep any dirt or crap from getting in while it's apart. Pretty sure the Prince part number for that valve's seal kit is 60530001.

Another alternative, should you decide to replace the valve, is to install the Prince Auto-Cycle valve. Speeds up the splitting process by allowing you to stage the next piece while the machine does its thing. I've installed several on the TW-P1. Takes about an hour and total cost for the valve, hoses and fittings runs about $350 if memory serves.

Should you decide to rebuild or replace the valve at some point, be sure to install a gauge in the system while you're at it. Will be a tremendous help in diagnosing any hydraulic issues down the road should they occur.

Take Care

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Great,and thanks. I think I'll go the route of replacing the LS 3000-1. If I were to do this, aside from installation, would I need to adjust it? I see there's an adjustable relief valve, and I'd be a little nervous about not setting it up properly.

Yup

When you replace the splitter's valve buy a 3/4 NPT close nipple, 3/4 NPT Tee, a 3/4 MNPT X 1/4 FNPT reducing bushing, and a gauge 0 to 3000 psi or 0 to 5000 psi would be my preference. All must be steel, (not black iron or brass), with a working pressure of 3000 psi min. Install the tee and gauge in the pressure line between the pressure side hose end and the valve inlet port. Cost for the gauge and fittings probably in the $25 range.

With the gauge installed you'll be able to set the relief valve pressure, I'd start in the 2500 psi range and adjust up or down a few hundred psi as necessary. No gauge in the line you're flying blind when trying to set up the system's relief pressure.

Take Care

 

[e-d0uble]

Again thanks for the information. I suppose this is when I admit to not being mechanically inclined enough to set the relief pressure per your above instructions. =) Looks like I'll need to shell out a few bucks to get the dealer to replace the part.