Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
I remember reading that it is possible to improve a Mac 6-10's performance by "tweaking the points. what I'd like to know is what exactly does this mean?
Tweaking older saws
- Thread starter Lawn Masters
- Start date
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I think that means you adjust the gap to control the ignition timing. Wider gap means advanced timing.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Now that I think about, I not sure I 'm right about a larger gap advancing the timing. I may have that backwards.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Re "tweeking"
My method,works for me.Set the coil air gap at about 5 to 6 thou.[ about 2 or 3 sheets of printer paper],move the coil in the max possible opposite the direction of rotation .Set the points about 3 to 5 thou.Moving the coil in ,increases the intentsity of the magnetic field,a combination of the closer points and shift of the coil,effectively advances the timing. A word of caution here,too much advance will cause the engine to "kick like a mule",could ruin the engine,and in the case of a large engine [sp 125 etc.] could cause pysical harm to the person attempting to start the saw.There is a fine line between easy to start and running slightly "souped up ".If you attemt this,procede slowly,it might take several attemts of removing the fly wheel to get to the points etc.McCulloch made advance degree fly wheels,used on cart engines,but bear in mind that these engines were normally started by a portable electric starter via a starting cup.In closing,let me reiterate that this is my method,I don't recommend it,nor do I accept any responsibility for anyone using this method.Al
My method,works for me.Set the coil air gap at about 5 to 6 thou.[ about 2 or 3 sheets of printer paper],move the coil in the max possible opposite the direction of rotation .Set the points about 3 to 5 thou.Moving the coil in ,increases the intentsity of the magnetic field,a combination of the closer points and shift of the coil,effectively advances the timing. A word of caution here,too much advance will cause the engine to "kick like a mule",could ruin the engine,and in the case of a large engine [sp 125 etc.] could cause pysical harm to the person attempting to start the saw.There is a fine line between easy to start and running slightly "souped up ".If you attemt this,procede slowly,it might take several attemts of removing the fly wheel to get to the points etc.McCulloch made advance degree fly wheels,used on cart engines,but bear in mind that these engines were normally started by a portable electric starter via a starting cup.In closing,let me reiterate that this is my method,I don't recommend it,nor do I accept any responsibility for anyone using this method.Al
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Al, that is somewhat confusing, but I'll figure it out.
Thanks to everyone who has any advice/methods of their own.
Thanks to everyone who has any advice/methods of their own.
has anyone tried the so-called atom modules? i've also heard something about stihl using some kind of a clock in their igntiton modules.. i have been considering retrofitting a mac with a chrome bore to this assembly. i have a 790, and a 6-10, and want a super pro 125 or 105, as i am going to be logging in unity oregon... i need a heavy duty saw.. amd maybe even something tuned up a little bit, seeing as i am going to be going head to head against stihls and huskies..
i got my 1-71 down today. does anyone kn0ow about the makeup of mac blocks, and who might be able to weld them?
i got my 1-71 down today. does anyone kn0ow about the makeup of mac blocks, and who might be able to weld them?
Those atom modules work pretty slick. No changing points for me. Pretty much wired parallel to the kill switch. Hardest part is figuring where to mount it.
Don't know if the timing is improved, but I have heard stories of original owners saying their saw has never run so well. My 050 is happier with it.
Chris B.
Don't know if the timing is improved, but I have heard stories of original owners saying their saw has never run so well. My 050 is happier with it.
Chris B.
Bob Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi guys, I have run an Atom module for 20 years in my Echo CS-60S. When my dad was an Echo dealer we put them in older saws in the 80's when the factory was switching over to electronic ingitions. They seem to work well. I think I saw them in the http://www.cutterschoice.com catalog...Bob
My local auto parts dealer stocks them in his store. About $15. If your guy orders through the Primeline small engine parts catalog, it's in there. I can get you a part number if you like.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Atom modules electronically open the primary of the coil at the moment of max induction. That could be slightly different timing than what would result if the primary were interrupted by the points opening, so there can be slightly different performance. It takes a few impulses to charge one of the capacitors in the unit before it fires so gives a chance for flywheel to build a bit of momentum before firing and helps prevent kickback. There are some specialty ones built for saw engines used on 1/4 scale RC model planes where you need a 1500 rpm idle and sure dont want any kickback when you are hand pulling a 21" propellor!
Frank
Frank
cbfarmall; yeah number would be good... i can't talk at length because my box of parts arrived tonight.. in the morning, my 1-80 may be in one piece.. or as close as i can be without the starter cover..
