U Trim It manual pole saw

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Kaptain_K

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Are any of you guys using a "U Trim It" 21' extension pole saw from Accu Measure? http://utrimit.com
Now that's one long reach.

I'm a groundie and will trim what I can reach from there. I'm sure I'll eventually get a nice(er) powered pole saw, but even then will only get half that reach.

Kap't K
 
I don't need one, I climb. Besides it is difficult to make proper cuts on trees with one.

As for the powered pole saw. Do you mean a chainsaw on a pole? I think those are not a good idea. #1: Where is a person standing when using a pole mounted chainsaw.--In the danger zone. #2: The majority of cuts are not going to be done properly.

Personally, I think pole saws and pole mounted chainsaws are not professional. I think they are gimmicks for ignorant home owners.

Please, reconsider your arboriculture practices.

Too harsh? :Monkey: Don't take it that way.
 
Ouch man. I'm just a learnin'.
I don't know if I should be sad, or maybe just go pour another tequila. I opt for the tequila. /brb
 
notahacker said:
Personally, I think pole saws and pole mounted chainsaws are not professional. I think they are gimmicks for ignorant home owners.

Please, reconsider your arboriculture practices.

Too harsh? :Monkey: Don't take it that way.


its clear who the ignorant one is here.....thats utter nonsense

kaptain, pole saws have their place. it is true that they are mis-used though and a lot of people make bad cuts with them. dont become one of them! learn when its right to use one and when not, and resist the urge to get the pole pruner out just cos its "easier".
 
we use the ars alloy rachet poles @ 5m and saw head also have bahco pruner heads fitted to the same poles
 
notahackler, if you can't make a proper cut with a pole saw, you need some pracitce boy. It may be harder than with a hand saw, but most of the time you can get just outside the collar.
 
(all refers to non-powered pole saws)
One of the silliest things is using pole saws on lower limbs, just to climb on past them to get the ones that can't be reached. Cutting dead wood with a pole is really much more difficult than attacking it with a handsaw. You have little control using the pole where in a climb you can rope it, sling it, etc to control it. With a pole, many would come in from the top and you'll create underside 'peels'. An undercut is difficult because you can't really cut on the underside of the limb when you're under it, I don't care how good you are.

If I have a partial snapoff limb hanging on cable or phone lines and the diameter is too big for pole pruner/bull loppers, the pole saw is indispensible. Cut to this side of the line, cut to that side of the line, you're off the line.

I find pole saws really hard to use, so I'll use it as a last resort, generally speaking. When it comes in handy, it comes in very handy, but it's not a tool I'll use all day long. It depends on the guy, but myself, I'd far more prefer to climb the tree and get more intimate with it. A pole saw definitely has it's place in the arborist's tool arsenal.
 
I wunder how these saws compare to the HAYAUCHI 21-Footer? Im curious if there 21'
has enough rigidity to it at full extension?
 
Well the FedEx man just showed up with it, less than 24hrs from out of state. I'm impressed so far. The saw looks to be of great quality also. I can tell you it's gonna be a bear to place the blade exactly where you want it with this pole fully exended. That's a long ways out there.

K
 
Hard to say. They claim to be the longest (at 21 feet) where the Hyauchi is 21 feet and they tell you to compare severel others at $200 where the Hyauchi is $159. They have one price for a standard blade and another price for a premium blade. A Silky will always have a premium blade.

I'm wary of marketing that's less than truthful. I'll give it one plus, it has a hang hook. Only one way to know is to give it a try. the price is realy good, but just remember that saying about how you get what you pay for.
 
I've got a cheap ($40) 14' Corona polesaw and I love it. We use it all the time for setting lines on dead pines w/ no lower limbs. I've used it for deadwooding up in the tree. And I think it's great for cutting those dam sucker limbs off the trunk, before climbing up.
 
Silky HAYAUCHI 21' is my saw of choice. It gets a little flexible at full extension but I would not leave the yard without it. The locking mechanism is prone to jam/lock up if not kept clean, but it is easy to fix. I have last years model , I think Silky have improved it this year. Worth $200 in my book.
 
Well, I'll tell ya, Slick (heh heh.) For the same reason you give the threads of a screw a scrape of soap before you drive it into wood, lubrica-shone. I don't use soap, but hit my Silkys with silicone spray now and again. I've heard of guys pouring veggie oil in the infeed chute of their chuck 'n ducks, and I do this on my power pruner bar, rather than just lube the chain, the whole thing gets coated with veggie oil. As soon as it's worn off the bar I can tell a difference.

All these things for the same reason.

When you have wood and metal coming together, there's a degree of friction that can be lessened with the use of a lubricant. As minor as it may seem, it does make a difference. Acts as a rust preventative, too.
 
Lube, good info! Thanks. Hayauchi 21" all the way. Just a great took to have with ya. BTW, you can swap the blade of the hayachi with the blade of a Ibuki hand saw if ya ever have the need! HC
 
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