Ulmus parviforlia, Chinese Elm

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

suprherosndwch

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
45
Reaction score
3
Location
norcal
Here where I live in Northern California, there is hardly any elms around. I have room to plant one large shade tree in my back yard and was thinking of planting one. I know there was hope that the Chinese Elm would someday be a suitable replacement for the America Elms lost to Dutch Elm Disease in our landscapes. I have never actually seen one though, and was wondering if anybody had and any experience with them, especially full sized ones, and if they would recommend planting one.
 
Are you sure you are talking about the true Chinese elm? In the midwest, they planted zillions of Ulmus pumila, and most people around here still call them chinese elms, but they are mistaken: they are correctly called Siberian elms.

Not a very good shade tree, they are much weaker than the American elm and are constantly broken down from ice storms. Not as big, prone to weeping sores called "wetwood". It might be different in your area.

The true chinese elm is pretty small (at least around here) and seldom seen. I don't have any real experience with them.
 
It's a beautiful tree and gets to be pretty large if the weather is right. Check what zone you're in and then check out if the tree is suited for it. There are few trees around that have better looking bark. Here in Austin there are quite a few, and I've never had to worry about weak limbs or bad structure when working on ones that have had proper care from the start. During the last big storm, I saw many other types of trees down and out, but no Chinese Elms. I'm sure some got hit, but I didn't see any. I planted one for a client a couple of years ago and it's doing great.
 
The Ulmus parvifolia Chinese elm or Lacebark elm is a better specimen than the Ulmus pumila Siberian elm, however, it is much more cold sensitive. So if you have a nursery in your area that stocks it, really scrutinize the cultivar and hardiness rating.

There also are a few hybrid American elms out there which are more Dutch Elm Disease resistant that we are going to try ourselves. The Ulmus Americana 'Brandon' and a cross (forgive my lapse of memory here) with a Ulmus Wilsoniana are being sold in our area of Zone 4.

Good luck.

Sylvia
 
If memory serves me correctly there is an American Elm now available that is not susceptible to Dutch Elm Disease. American Elms are beautiful when healthy. If you are in town in a average size lot and want less headaches, I would stick to a full crown tree as apposed to spreading or large vase shaped trees. Also, keep in mind that shade is given based off angles. Too many people think they need a 100 foot tall tree to get this. If you are a single story ranch 30-35 feet will do you fine, two story add 15 feet go 45-55 feet max height. The bigger they are the harder they fall and the more they cost to deal with later. Now if you can do the work yourself it won't physically cost you anymore however if you are like me, my trees, lawn and all other honey do list items are the last to get done.
 
If memory serves me correctly there is an American Elm now available that is not susceptible to Dutch Elm Disease.

Those cvs, are more tolerant to DED then the native varieties. All of them are more cultivated hybrid then true cv. They are getting better, but will get it in high pressure environments with secondary stresses.

We also need decades for the evaluation to truely show results, they told us Homestead was going to me the one, but it has almost no apical dominance and grows all over the place. I would like to see some QS wood from one, they get a lot of fines sprouts and the pinknots should look cool and have a high flake.
 
I've been told that as long as it isn't near other elms you should be able to plant a native. Here in RI we still have a bunch of big old elms, but the only ones that survived are single plantings(not close enough for root grafts). Does this sound reasonable to anyone else?
 
I've been told that as long as it isn't near other elms you should be able to plant a native. Here in RI we still have a bunch of big old elms, but the only ones that survived are single plantings(not close enough for root grafts). Does this sound reasonable to anyone else?

Yes,...and no.

The big story behind the american elms many years ago was that there were "mono-cultures" of elms: nothing lining a street but the same tree, often for miles. Once the pathogen was introduced to an area, it continued to spread from root grafts, and it wiped out all the shade trees for entire neighborhoods.

Nowadays, there are so few of the trees left, that the insects that might transmit the pathogen from tree to tree don't often come across another susceptible tree. In this case, isolation is a form of deterent, but it is not protection. If your tree is unlucky enough to catch a boring beetle that came from a diseased elm, it's all over with (after a few years)

Planting a young elm in a diverse planting area is not a bad idea either, as the younger trees are much less susceptible to the beetles that spread the disease. They aren't likely to get it until they are a bit more mature.

I am working on a trimming an apartment project right now that has ONE american elm on 33 acres of miserable looking siberian elms, about 8 monster pinoaks, and several decent linden trees. My lead climber and I were walking down the street and looked at the only great looking shade tree, and discovered that there was one survivor of the dutch elm disease.

I sort of wish there were more of them there: we didn't hardly have to touch that tree, the siberians are all pitiful excuses for shade trees.
 
Most of the elms we have here in Colorado Springs are Siberians. Im my humble opinion they are just one step up from not having a tree at all. They arnt as subceptible to DED, but the European Elm Scale and Elm Bark beetle will still tear them up. It never seems to kill them, they are pretty resiliant but they are high maintence. We had the state champion American Elm taken down not to long ago because of DED. It was a shame. She was an awesome specimen.

Kenn
 
Elms a great trees, look into "Liberty Elm", a cultivated variety of American Elm, "Emerald Sunshine" is a new cultivar worth looking at. American elms around here last about 25 years, aside from a few loners that were far enough away from other elms to not get infected.
 
The oldest Chinese Elm in the country is located on the UMass Amherst campus. Gorgeous tree, it is right next to the library if any of you ever are out that way. I believe it was 83 feet 10 years ago when it was last measured with an equal or greater spread.
 
Do any of you guys out east have a problem with Elm Scale? Its the vector of a nasty fungus that causes the bark to look burnt and scortched. Nasty stuff to work with. We also have a problem with bacterial slime flux in our elms out here. Slimy, gooey, stinky nasty stuff.

Kenn
 
We always have slime flux, if there is an inclusion.

I've heard that some companies are going with insecticidal controls now, thinking that if you kill the bugs, the healthy trees can fight off the fungus.

I've worked some monsters around here, some that have been on 3x ArboTech for decades. Now they hit it with Imidicloprid every 2 years.

If you have heavy scale problems that need to be knocked down ASAP, and Imidicloprid is too slow, the Metasytox by soil is a good fast big hammer approach. It is good on mites too, if you are on a merit cycle and are having mite problems crops up. Nasty stuff though wear all possible PPE respirator with proper filters for VHOC's
 
We pretty much just stick with the Merit, It seems to work well and its one of those things you dont need to spray. THe boss is pretty much old school and really hard headed. Trying to talk him into trying anything new or something out of his comfort zone is like trying to talk Bush into pulling out of Iraq. I have been trying to talk him into starting a better PHC program for the last two years, but he is a business man and in our neck of the woods Mountain Pine beetles are tearing up the mountains and its all about the money spraying Astro. Both our chippers suck but he just dropped some serious coin on a second spray rig. Sometimes judgement is the better part of valor and I will just try and get through this years trim season without gettin griped at about low man hour rates. Sometimes all you can do is all you can do.

Kenn
 
Elm Scale...no. Slime flux, oh yes...

We've got quite a few Siberians around and they all have slime flux. Nasty stuff. I agree with pdqpl's assessment of the Siberians, not much better than a weed. Twiggy, messy weak wooded things with not a lot of nice structure.

Do any of you guys out east have a problem with Elm Scale? Its the vector of a nasty fungus that causes the bark to look burnt and scortched. Nasty stuff to work with. We also have a problem with bacterial slime flux in our elms out here. Slimy, gooey, stinky nasty stuff.

Kenn
 
The American Elm is a great old tree, I miss it from when I was working in Denver. My favorites were the trees that grew out on the golf courses, they had all the room in the world to grow into that perfect picturesque form. That is why I was thinking about letting one tree have my whole back yard, hoping that it would use the room to grow into that shape. But there are a few Siberian Elms around town, enough to hold a beetle population, so I am a little skiddish about planting an American Elm, and was hoping the Chinese would be a good replacement. It looks like there is a nursery up in Oregon that grows them for a zone 5, I'm in a zone 7, so hopefully that will work. Thanks for insight everybody.

S
 

Latest posts

Back
Top