Undoing Low-Profile Setup

[Kicker_92]

I'm looking at converting a small saw that came with 3/8" low profile chain to run standard 3/8" 0.050" chain. (16" bar)

There's been a lot of discussions about running low-profile chain on a standard sprocket nose, but what will happen swapping the other way?

 

[mtngun]

A lo-pro nose has a thinner sprocket, so it might work on 3/8. Drape some 3/8 over your lo-pro nose and see how it looks.

You'll need a different drive sprocket, of course.

 

[Kicker_92]

A lo-pro nose has a thinner sprocket, so it might work on 3/8. Drape some 3/8 over your lo-pro nose and see how it looks.

I actually don't have the saw yet, trying to figure out if it'll take too mny parts to be worthwhile.

You'll need a different drive sprocket, of course.

That would be a problem, these little electric saws use a spur type drive sprocket that can't be replaced.

I'd like to setup an electric saw with the alaskan & mini-mill for cutting timber frame joinery indoors.

 

[Brmorgan]

Well someone's gotta ask... Why do you want to switch to standard 3/8" on a small saw?

 

[BobL]

I actually don't have the saw yet, trying to figure out if it'll take too mny parts to be worthwhile.

That would be a problem, these little electric saws use a spur type drive sprocket that can't be replaced.

I'd like to setup an electric saw with the alaskan & mini-mill for cutting timber frame joinery indoors.

It sounds like you should direct your energies towards getting yourself a bandsaw.

 

[Philbert]

I like electric saws. But a 'little electric saw' may not have the power to drive a chain with larger cutters, especially with the constant demand that a mill puts on it.

I would look at one of the larger electric saws that already drive the chain you are looking to use or one of the worm drive saw modifications made for this purpose (http://praziusa.com/beamcutter.html)

Philbert

 

[Kicker_92]

It sounds like you should direct your energies towards getting yourself a bandsaw.

All the bandsaws I've seen have a slight problem plunge cutting for mortices...

Might look at going with a Prazi to attach to our worm drive saw as an alternative. Want something without fumes since it's back the rainy season here, and it'd be nice to work on the beam ends and cutting smaller details indoors.

I already have lots of loops of 16" standard 3/8" non-safety chain from another saw to use, hence the desire to adapt. Might have to just bench grinder away the safety chain bumps and stick with the LP setup if we go the chainsaw route.

Somehow it feels wrong to be out looking at electric poulans when there's a decked and ported 880 sitting at home... got CAD?

 

[Philbert]

Somehow it feels wrong to be out looking at electric poulans when there's a decked and ported 880 sitting at home...

I would suggest looking at the Makita (e.g. UC4030A, 15a, 2600 fpm, 3/8", 0.050), or the Husky (e.g. 316E, 1600W, 2880 fps, 3/8", 0.050) electrics (or their Dolmar or Jonsered twins) as these are powerful, in-line electric saws with bodies like a reciprocating saw that would be easier to manuver in construction settings.

Fine Homebuilding magazine ran a tip on this topic (http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/tips/precision-chainsaw-cutting.aspx). They had some other articles on chain mortisers, etc. for timber framing.

A few years back they ran a comparison of electric chainsaws for conventional framing use, and as I recall, they chose one of the STIHL electrics, which look more like conventional gas chain saws.

Philbert

 

[discounthunter]

you need to find out what type of drum/sprocket assembly you have then find the drum/rim assembly equivilent. either look on your ipl to get dimmentions or take it off and measure it.