Uneven Maple Tree Growth

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lind777

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I have a maple tree that was planted about 15 years ago. The trunk is growing unevenly and one half of the tree is growing much faster than the other. One half also sheds its leaves much earlier than the other half. I dug around and it looks like the roots are going out. I may not have dug a very big hole for it originally and the ground around it is very hard. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Photos attached.
 
Was this area grass that you dug out?

The tree does appear to have a compromised root ball. Symptoms of uneven growth, the trunk asymetrically going into the ground, uneven fall display, etc., all send us looking to the roots first.

Your picture does appear to show at least a couple of girdling roots. If you did not dig a very big planting hole, and there are interface issues between good soil/bad soil, this could have exacerbated the issue.

Removing the offending roots might be a bit more than you want to tackle yourself, but since your tree is already struggling, needs to be done if long term results are desired. The root area needs to be better exposed to truly see what is going on. Preferrably with air or water rather than chance injuring roots with a shovel.

Be sure you cover the root area when you are not working on it to keep things from drying out.

Sylvia
 
Cut out area

Thanks for the reply. There was about a 3-4 diameter cutout with mulch. I just cut ouot another foot or so all around. The soil is very hard at the edges so not sure how to dig way down without damaging the roots. I already scuffed a few slightly. I will cover as well per your guidance when not working on it. How far down and out should I go?
 
You need to go as far as you need in order to see the buttress flair roots. Which I believe you can. What you need to be able to see is if there are any roots that are circling the trunk or circling buttress roots that could constrict growth and development.

Normally this process would be professionally handled with an air spade or air knife which blows the dirt away, with little to no damage to the root system. And I encourage you to call a professional to assist with this project.

I am concerned as to why your dirt is so hard. It shouldn't be for a good growing medium. Is it particularly dry or hard packed clay? If the soil strength is sufficiently dense, it can be restricting root growth as well. It may be recommended to try to fracture the soil in a radial pattern going out from the tree to encourage the roots to spread out. This might be accomplished in a variety of ways; trenching in a wheel pattern out from the tree, drilling vertical but slanted holes out away from the tree, etc. Again, a professional onsite would be of best assistance.

Roots need space, nutrients, air and water. Limit any one of those and there will be problems.

Sylvia
 
Time for a professional

Thanks for your help. I will engage a local arborist. Which side would be best to initially work on? The side that is stunted? Or is the side where the trunk is knotted the problem area?
 
The side that is stunted is the one that has the most likely girdling root issue. But the other side should also be examined to determine what is causing the "knotting".

Sylvia
 
:agree2:

Lind777, just curious, where is the street light closest to this plant?
 
attached is one view of dealing with girdling roots.

from the looks of your first picture maybe you could plant a few more trees--lots of space, and this maple has major issues it seems.
 
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Treating the tree with a mycorhizae might be a good idea. It will act as a secondary root system for the tree. Maybe do a drench or deep root feeding just on the bad side of the tree, encourage root growth in that direction and boost the soil at the same time? A good organic soil amendment like Bolster or a PHC product can turn bad soil around. Can help with the compaction issue.
 
The basal trunk area appears to be rather swollen. I would suspect besides the STRONG possibilty of girdled roots there is a possibilty of graft failure. This looks like a hybrid maple and if it is grafted that swelling could be a telltale sign of incompatable grafting causing a blockage in the conductive tissue. Cleft grafting is prone to this in maples as excessive callus tisue forms around the graft actually causing the blockage. I would think that this tree is in serious trouble if it's both girdled and graft failure. 15 years is about the age these things start to show. If it is JUST girdled, root removal is still very viable. Good luck...
 
Would it be better to spend $300 on a new tree versus spending that amount or more on trying to save it? I would do the soil prep correct this time around. I think I did not cultivate the soil far enough out for sure. Thanks for your comments.
 
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