Using longer chainsaw bar as suggested for milling

[janisda]

Hello
There are a bunch of cut trees that I would like to turn into boards. As local services charge the same amount for slabbing the greatest of my ash trees as it would be to buy a new chainsaw, I am seriously tending to buy one.

But before I make my decision I would like to experiment. I have revived an old Husqvarna 262xp 62cc saw. Instructions say that the longest bar is 20". As Alaskan frame takes away, I even don't know 10cm? (4in?) then I would like to get as long bar as possible.

Can anyone answer me or add any other comments if it is possible to use longer bars if combined with low profile chain and bar and semi-skip or skip chain?

 

[buzz sawyer]

What is the width of your trees? 62cc is a little small for anything over 12" in my opinion. Remember, a chainsaw mill takes a wider kerf so you get fewer boards compared to bandsaw mill.

 

[J D]

Going to low-pro chain would likely be more hassle than it's worth. I would think best performance would come from .325 in either full skip or Granberg configuration but you would likely have to make that yourself. There will be off the shelf options for 3/8 & I doubt you'd notice much if any significant difference.
If your power head is in good order & running strong with a muffler mod & tuned a tad rich it may well pull a 24" bar ok. I'd be wanting to get extra oil on it though.
A 24" bar will still only give you an 18" cut unless you mount it by drilling the bar/tip & bolting rather than clamping, in which case you'll get closer to 20"

 

[Brian72]

I'd pay to have it milled. It'll take you days to cut what a mill can do in a few hours. Chainsaw mills are fine for simple projects or wide stuff that won't fit on a mill but it's very slow and dirty work even with a big saw. I'm not trying to discourage you from buying a mill but there's a whole lot more involved than just cost.

Sent from my moto g power (2022) using Tapatalk

 

[TomW]

I agree with Brian. Milling is slow, dirty, loud work that taxes a saw.

 

[BobL]

There are a bunch of cut trees that I would like to turn into boards. As local services charge the same amount for slabbing the greatest of my ash trees as it would be to buy a new chainsaw, I am seriously tending to buy one.

If you are basing a decision to mill these yourself or have them milled using this criteria then have them milled.
What it means is you are working, time wise, for nothing, not to mention the dirt, noise and effort.
Better to put your time into making something with the boards.

 

[janisda]

If you are basing a decision to mill these yourself or have them milled using this criteria then have them milled.
What it means is you are working, time wise, for nothing, not to mention the dirt, noise and effort.
Better to put your time into making something with the boards.

The thing is that we got those trees from our garden because it felt not safe anymore. The greatest ash tree is 110cm (43in) in diameter. For this one to cut it costs the same as Stihl 660 (if used, already together with slabbing equipment). In my local area only method to slab this one I can think of is with chain saw. OK, also, by chainsawing around it till 80cm (31.5in) square and then using mill but then I loose 30cm (12in).
I think it is not for nothing because I get the saw as a reward that I can use later on these other logs. Also, we are having our own small forest gives some logs from time to time as well.
I understand that for usual situations it would be better to use mill but for this bigger tree what do you think? Is it really not worth it?

 

[HumBurner]

On a dollar basis, it's probably not worth it.

On the advantages you mentioned, getting some equipment out of it and some experience, it's worth it.

Other advantages to CSM are milling in place, which means not having equipment going in/out of your yard, garden, or whatever, IF equipment can even get in to it. There's also the satisfaction of doing something yourself and keeping as much of a closed loop as possible.

All this will be at the sacrifice of some board feet. You're also not likely supporting Lowes, Home Depot, etc., which is a HUGE gain.



For me, milling in place, or close to it, is a big advantage.


I have a 266 that is likely going to end up on the edging mill this summer wearing a 16" bar. You could mill some small stuff or rip boards with the 262, but it's not going to like the abuse long term.