Variable length attachment for Climbign Friction Hitch

[rfwoodvt]

Hoping someone can help. While at TCI Expo I saw a display where a climber had what looked like a double eyed tether that he attached his friction hicth carabiner to on one end and onto his saddle on the other. This allowed him to use it in the tradtional split tail config to allow a good body thrust.

What was unique about this tether was it had an additional eye just below the top eye so that he could shorten it by attaching that eye to his saddle thus bringing the schwabish closer to his hip for a more tradtional eye&eye prussic set up.

anyhow I only saw it from a distance and was wondering if anyone else saw it, could explain its working s and maybe even have some pics of it.

Any help is welcome.

 

[sawinredneck]

If it's what I think you are talking about it's called the "Mickey Mouse" rig, as the pulley has two ears that look like Mickey Mouse when held upright. The pulley is on you're main line below you're friction hitch and pushe the hitch as you climb. Same principal as a lockjack, just cheaper and minimul chance for mechanical faliure.
I looked into it, but have been told it's not for novice climbers and tends to twist if not setup perfectly.
Andy

 

[rfwoodvt]

very close...very close

ThanX TreeCo!

That is very close to what I saw at TCI. Main difference is instead of the steel ring at the top, there was an inline, thimbled eyesplice.

During the demo the climber showed how to change from extended to in-close mode very smoothly and rapidly. Didn't quite get how to do that from the zipped slide show on this particular set up tho.

Its a good start tho. any one else see the set up at tci and could share some thots?

ThanX!

 

[Grace Tree]

The the Anchor Bridge setup developed by Rich_H. The one I have uses the thimble instead of the steel ring. Email him. I'm sure he'll be happy to tell you about it.
Phil
http://www.arboristsite.com/member.php?u=8982

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I have one and it works real nice especially with a rope guide!

The only problem is when working the very top of the tree, when your climbing line is cinched up short. The falling end (opposite your hitch end) gets "crowded" because of the extended 'biner!

Once you move away some, 4 ft. or so, all is good!!!

This is a VERY good setup!!!

 

[PUclimber]

Anchor bridge

Yes it is the anchor bridge system developed by Rich Hattier of Lanphear Supply company. Here are the details of the rig. What is included is two in a sense eye and eye sections of rope. One slightly shorter than the other. This way you run your eye and eye split tail at a distance further away from you. This while body thrusting or foot locking the tail you can pull it straight through so you're knot is being tended while you're going up. While extended the knot is attached to a thimble on the long side of the bridge by a #3 boat snap. The snap is not locking by any means but it doesn't have to since it's not holding weight. It is merely used to keep the two lines together and to help tend the knot. Then once you've ascended the tree you take and unclip the boat snap from the thimble and bring your carabiner back down to your saddle in order to get your eye and eye closer to your saddle to work off. This is great for limb walking back in as well. All you have to do is extend the bridge back out and start walking in and tail your line by just pulling it instead of having to pull above the knot and tend the line below it. Another nice thing about this anchor bridge system is the fact that when you go to make your cuts in the tree and it's extended with having the ends girth hitched on your saddle you have two clean sections of line in front of you without all the clutter of your carabiners and your knots. You just have the two clean bridges.
If anyone is interested in ordering one or anything here is how to get ahold of Rich.
Phone # at Lanphear supply 216-381-1704
toll free 1-800-332-tree
email [email protected]

I have done some time using this system and absolutely love it on certain jobs and climbing situations. Especially those with long limb walks.

 

[rfwoodvt]

Any Pics?

The the Anchor Bridge setup developed by Rich_H. The one I have uses the thimble instead of the steel ring. Email him. I'm sure he'll be happy to tell you about it.
Phil
QUOTE]

Hey Small Wood, thanX! I'll try to connect with rich.

Meantime, any chance you can send some pics of your rig? Also any chance of sending some pics of it in the "close-in" and "extended positions?

 

[Grace Tree]

Rick:

I use a Lockjack and only one leg of the Anchor Bridge system so I could send you pics but it would probably confuse you. I'm sure Rich can walk you through it; I'd just confuse you. I think he has some out of town competition events in the near future so if he doesn't answer right away don't get discouraged.
Phil

 

[rfwoodvt]

Me Too!

Rick:

I use a Lockjack and only one leg of the Anchor Bridge system so I could send you pics but it would probably confuse you. I'm sure Rich can walk you through it; I'd just confuse you. I think he has some out of town competition events in the near future so if he doesn't answer right away don't get discouraged.
Phil

Hi Phil,

FWIW I use the Lockjack too....thats why I was looking for pics, I figured I could cipher a way to use my LJ if I could see how it was set up with a distel,schwabish or VT/MT.

Essentially the tether could be used to make the LJ a twin or sport depending on what the situation is.

Would love to see your rig.

 

[Grace Tree]

Here's a link to another thread about the LJ. In my post there's a link to photos showing the Lockjack with the long leg of the Anchor Bridge system and a shorter one that I got from Rich. I use the longer on my Glide and the shorter one when I'm wear my Master because with the longer (blue one in pics) one it puts the LJ almost out of reach. One word of caution if you're using a LJ and the bridge extender and you're using a saddle with a sliding bridge. If you couple up short (in work mode) you can end up with a whole lot of hardware over by the side Ds.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=545586#post545586

 

[rfwoodvt]

How do you shorten the long bridge w/ the LJ

Phil,

How do you go about shortening the long bridge into the "work" position with your LJ? Do you clib a 'biner through the eye and onto your saddle? if so, is that embedded eye rated for that kind of load?

With the original AB that eye actually had only a brass ring to achor the PMP to slide the hitch up the line. If the new thimble merely replaces the brass ring, has it been spliced in such a way as to be strong enought to act as an anchor eye?

Just something I'd be concerned about, but may be a non issue.

 

[PUclimber]

Well the way it is now is you have a thimble spliced into the mid line by a locking brummel. This is actually rated to climb off of as I have a footlock prussik loop that I have that you can footlock up and then it's got a thimble spliced in as to use as a floating false crotch. If you do the lock right and have enough bury lenght in your splice you're good to go. Also if you guys have any input on ways to change it knowing Rich he'd love to hear about it.

 

[Grace Tree]

Phil,

How do you go about shortening the long bridge into the "work" position with your LJ? Do you clib a 'biner through the eye and onto your saddle? if so, is that embedded eye rated for that kind of load?

With the original AB that eye actually had only a brass ring to achor the PMP to slide the hitch up the line. If the new thimble merely replaces the brass ring, has it been spliced in such a way as to be strong enought to act as an anchor eye?

Just something I'd be concerned about, but may be a non issue.

The Master has two center attachment loops. I'm girthed onto the lower one and when I clip short I just clip into the upper one. As to the thimble question, I don't want to answer for Rich so I'd really encourage you to email him. I have the slides of the AB system if you want me to email them to you. They're over 2MB so be warned. There's a zip file with the slides on this or the "other" board and if you do a search you should be able to find it. Really, what I'm using with the LJ is kind of a distant cousin to the AB system. It's more like the using LJ twin.
Phil

 

[rfwoodvt]

PU and SW:

What you have both said is what I assumed, just wanted to be sure. I do know that the inline thimble places stress in the line such that it theoretically should not be as strong as the end-eye but strong enough.

SW, I'm using the Master-Pro and have all those loops to work with too. The idea of being able to switch from the LJ "Sport mode" to the "Twin mode" is quite appealing.

Now, it looks like I have some spectra tech cord laying around and a bunch of tenex.......guess I need to get splicing eh!


I'm also gonna fart around with using an adjustible length AB by attaching a friction device (grigri, microscender or other prussic) to the saddle and then putting the AB through the friction device to allow infinite adjustment.

I like this idea better than the fixed lenght with a clip in as the fixed lenght leads to a loop/bight of line between the legs that would tend to snag. The friction adjustment would just have a danglie, less likely to snag.

I know it is one more piece of hardware on the saddle but, all things consider I think it is worht it.

The other thought is I've used a sling on my competition rifle that if you pull down on one side and up on the other it extends and if you do the opposite it retracts and there is no loose end flopping around.

Maybe with a couple of shackels I could work something similar.

ThanX for the help!