vemeer 1230 chipper

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josh Farris

tree man
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I am going to look at a late 80's 1230 Vermeer chipper but I'm unsure on what it is worth because I cannot find a similar one for sale anywhere so if anybody has any idea if 4000 is too much to pay for a machine that has 1700 on it? It seems to be in really good shape and I believe it has the Ford Industrial motor. Any help will be appreciated thanks
 
How's the bearings and is the disk in good shape? I run a 1250 and get along fine paid 6500 with 700 hrs it's a 1993. The only difference between a 1250 and 1230 that I know of is the pivoting tongue. Mine also has the 300 ford. It's been a good motor not the power of a diesel but without auto feed you are babysitting it anyways.

Also one other thing to check out is the gear pump that drives the feed wheels they aren't overly powerful and mine failed before 800 hrs. It was 1500 to get one from Vermeer and a wait time for production to make one. I got a more common eaton gear pump from the local hydraulic shop. It was 450 and has more power and didn't take much modification to fit in the stock location.
 
How's the bearings and is the disk in good shape? I run a 1250 and get along fine paid 6500 with 700 hrs it's a 1993. The only difference between a 1250 and 1230 that I know of is the pivoting tongue. Mine also has the 300 ford. It's been a good motor not the power of a diesel but without auto feed you are babysitting it anyways.

Also one other thing to check out is the gear pump that drives the feed wheels they aren't overly powerful and mine failed before 800 hrs. It was 1500 to get one from Vermeer and a wait time for production to make one. I got a more common eaton gear pump from the local hydraulic shop. It was 450 and has more power and didn't take much modification to fit in the stock location.
thanks for the info i bought it a few days ago and it seams good it has 1700 hours the feed wheels seems to be working fine the bearings seam to be all good
 
Good deal hope it works good for you. One other thing there a grease fitting on top of the clutch housing that is really hard to see. It's up near the top next to the pulley that drives the disk. It lubricates a bearing that supports the shaft coming out from the clutch driving your belt for the disk. If it doesnt get greased it fails and takes out the clutch and smaller pilot bearing inside the flywheel. Don't ask me how I know Luckily it didn't ruin the shaft itself as they are 3100 dollars new. Keep things greased up and tightened down you'll be good to go.
 
Good deal hope it works good for you. One other thing there a grease fitting on top of the clutch housing that is really hard to see. It's up near the top next to the pulley that drives the disk. It lubricates a bearing that supports the shaft coming out from the clutch driving your belt for the disk. If it doesnt get greased it fails and takes out the clutch and smaller pilot bearing inside the flywheel. Don't ask me how I know Luckily it didn't ruin the shaft itself as they are 3100 dollars new. Keep things greased up and tightened down you'll be good to go.
One question what do you set your Anvil Gap at
 
As close as I can get it. I'm sure there's an actual spec somewhere but I don't know it. I just rotate the disk by hand while looking down at the anvil and keep sliding it in til it's almost touching. It usually takes a flash light or headlamp to see what's going on. There is one knife that is slightly closer than the others and that's what you set if off of. Also make sure the anvil is square if it's not it can clear the outer knives but the inner ones still hit or vice versa. Just make sure you rotate it around by hand completely and everything clears before you close it up. The tighter the gap the less stress on your engine and the better the chip quality....assuming your knives are sharp.
 

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