Video of felling gums properly

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You weren't lieing! It was a corker! Crickey!!!

I liked the throwbag trick, never seen it before.
 
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wow i really like your videos.. they are great .... makes me miss oz so badly ...i really miss the birds .... just curious why do cut the hinge so high up on those two ? ...
 
Yeah, the customer wanted them up high so an excavator thats levelling the front area can dig them out.

Do you guys know about the Safe Working Load (SWL) and Breaking Strength (BS) ratio?

Over here on hardware (shackles, biners etc) SWL is 20% of BS.

And ropes its 1/6th or 16.66% of BS.

Important to match your gear up. I think the USA ratios are 10%.

That bull rope I use is 9300kg BS and 20,502lb BS in your scale, so its SWL is 1550kg or 3417lb. I can confidently use and use this rope without worrying about overloading it or cycles to failure.

The shackles varied between 3250kg and 4250kg SWL ... well in excess of the rope and the pulley is 1800kg SWL, the biners were 1000kg SWL but I used two. Be safe. :)
 
Over here its 10%.

However on some items we think that 20% is ok as well.

From what I have read the bowline on a bite doesnt equally share the weight after its loaded meaning that one loop could have more tension than the other, which could cause a failure because of the unequal loading failing one biner, then the second. I use a shackle or a porty in situations like that.

Love the vids!
 
That rope is half price of samson and made right here in Brisbane, I don't see the sense in paying twice as much for a bull rope as it's rated well for the task it has to perform, and if it gets trashed as they do with trees landing on them ... no big deal.

My lowering rope on the other hand is samson double braid as weight for dia size vs BS is important, up trees you want light but strong gear. 9/16 samson double braid is 6000kg BS for example and the equivalent in the cheaper rope from the Brisbane guy is 4600kg BS.

With regard to the BOB loops not sharing load evenly ... possible but depends on how well you tie it, you could always use higher rated carabiners or shackles ... but we wouldn't have had much more than 1000kg's on it anyway.

With the redirect the ute was on a slight downhill run and we just let the weight of the ute on that hill provide the tension. On the second tree the weight of the ute alone started the pull over easily.

In the video the trees were pretty straight and the ground on a slope, even though it looked the other way around.

Thanks for the feed back guys ... just showing the way we do things and the ways we are taught.
 
Yeah Ekka, I have 2 ropes of a lower quality just for that reason (now), I was just pointing it out.

I didnt think that the biners were at risk of failing, but I was just going to bring some attention to the lack of load sharing between the lops on a BOB. A figure 8 with 2 loops shares the load better (one of the best) according to On Rope (book).
 
Lumberjack said:
Yeah Ekka, I have 2 ropes of a lower quality just for that reason (now), I was just pointing it out.

I didnt think that the biners were at risk of failing, but I was just going to bring some attention to the lack of load sharing between the lops on a BOB. A figure 8 with 2 loops shares the load better (one of the best) according to On Rope (book).

I dont like figure 8's much. I've had some tough times untying them especially if the ropes wet from rain or dew on the ground and loaded heavily. I agree that the figure 8 is a stronger idiot proof knot but untying them ....

... I climb with a figure 8 terminal knot and occasionally even that bugger gets a bit hard to untie, then again I do weigh 100kg plus gear. :)
 
Unless you are felling a tree with a big crown, then a back cut with a step is not as safe as in line with the apex of the scarf/notch, this is especially true on trees with twisting grain. You can actually cut the holding wood out.

The reason for the step is if the crown hits first, it will keep the but from jumping back.

I like to cut and pull so that the tree falls slow, and have a wide faced crotch so the hinge will not break. ( I realize you did not need that on this job, turf damage and but jump were not an issue ;))

On the second tree I would have used a standard bo'lin or fixed the shackle in mid line too. This takes the compression of the crown out of the system, which is good if you have a large tree with a lean, you can tension up the system right away.

For a connector knot I like a 9 on a bight, beacuse of the loading issues and it's so much eaiser to tie :)
 
I like to use a port-a-wrap to hook the bull rope to the hitch of the vehicle. It is easy on the rope and is easy to untie.
 
JPS, can you post info on a 9 on a bite knot, I'm not familiar with that one and google came up blank.
 

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