VIRGIN MILLWORKER

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
As mentioned weight on top will help force the flitches flat as they dry. The more weight the better. Also could make stacks taller as the stack will weight lower layers.

With large logs, I often use the center 6 X 6" as beams (box the heart"). This makes the most stable beams and contains the pith. These are good to start stacks on and/or weight the top of stacks. Not really practical with smaller logs.

It would be good if your bottom course was a little higher off the floor for ventilation.

When I worked at a mill we had a "bander", which was a device to cinch up metal strapping to hold the stack in place and compress any boards with warp/twist. You might be able to do the same with a few ratcheting tie downs around the stacks..
 
Ok thanks for the quick responses guys. Im going out to restack now. I have picked up some better stickers a bit straighter and more hard. I also made some shims to level the base im going to set. Probably going to stack 2x4 to get it up off the ground a bit. I'll post so.e more pics when I finish. And whats the deal with the bark should I strip in now while im at it?
 
What you have stacked, is flitches, unedged-boards. They have the bark and waste wood on the edges. If set outside bugs love bark and unseasoned wood. That depends on wood species and location.

I have a small logosol mill that I can stack the flitches, on edge, and mill off the edgings . That gives me square boards that I stack. Also gets rid of favorite places for bugs.

Stacking flitches is fine, if you do it so they can: dry, resist warps/twists, and bugs.

If you have, used cinder blocks or bricks, that will get the stack off the floor, just keep the base level. Ventilate area, fans and/or a dehumidifier if closed door.

Keep an eye out for signs of bugs, holes in the wood or frass/"sawdust".

Don't stress out too much. You look to be doing fine so far.
 
Looks like you are off and running! Make sure you have enough air flow in the garage, otherwise you will have surface mold. You can use racket straps around the stack to keep things locked together (similar to the "banding" mentioned in another comment).
 
Yep you definitely want to start and finish sticker placement at the ends of the slabs.
I use 3/4" thick stickers on lumber up to about 36" wide 1" for wider than this.
I place them about 18" apart.

I like to do stickers 1 1/2" X 1". Then if you cut them a little off , or you grab one that is not milled right, you still put the sticker down wide side.

A wancky sticker will make a row (s)of board warped too.

Now I have skimped on stickers too. Sometimes an edging from a flitch will fill in, it it's width.
 
Guys I come out to start the oak and this is what I found. Should I mill it or give up? I cut it open at the end and I dont see any bugs
1df033883a873321818100f6461f66d9.jpg
e651cbf4d716daa31ac1a48ecc4b6c50.jpg
9cca455653408fbcbeec04baa8ada91f.jpg
 
Wow thanks for the advice here guys. Lol. Still learning the acronyms and lingo so excuse me for sounding stupid. I'm going to stack in my garage. Will that work? Ive already sealed the logs with roof sealant while waiting for my CSM to arrive. They are on the ground but I dont have a skid steer. They are on open clean dirt. I plan on stacking them large to small in garage with 1X1 peices of wood in between. Maybe spaced out 6 inches apart. Or would that be too close? I just didnt want them to sag or warp from too much space. And as for the "stress side" of wood where the rings are compressed. Do I want to start milling on the opposite side of the stress? So if a pine for example is leaning uphill the backside would be the stress side. I would roll the log and start milling on the side thats leaning up,hill? Amd,vise versa for hard wood? Thanks for the response.

6" spacing would be overkill. We usually go with 4-6ft, depending on what the lumber is.
 
What is the blue stuf?
The bark came off at the end of the log so i painted it as a deaperate attempt to seal it. That part was getting cut off before milling anyhow as it was on top right where I would set my guide rails. Lol, pretty stupid I know but I dropped the tree and then ordered my mill and started doing research. Went in to straigh panic mode. [emoji853] it looks like bugs digging in though. Right through thw paint too. Little tails of saw dust coming out from a hole. I cut into it amd didnt see any further damage.
 
Andhow this was the other half of the tree. It had no sighns of bugs so I milled it uobas quickly as possible. I think this is oak? Please forgive my ignorance.
6bd0ecc2092464ff8e287bd7b8e14665.jpg
1068919c3b913e54dd765c4fb0b75113.jpg
355d5f9521aeae629ccbebd6639991a5.jpg
72324ade7b1ce350e8042b5cca712c80.jpg
 
Andhow this was the other half of the tree. It had no sighns of bugs so I milled it uobas quickly as possible. I think this is oak? Please forgive my ignorance.
6bd0ecc2092464ff8e287bd7b8e14665.jpg
1068919c3b913e54dd765c4fb0b75113.jpg
355d5f9521aeae629ccbebd6639991a5.jpg
72324ade7b1ce350e8042b5cca712c80.jpg
The flares on the left side of the heart wood shows it to be oak. Color different between sapwood and the heart wood says it may be red oak. If I'm wrong someone will point it out & we both learn more.
 
Ok so borax as in the cleaner? I looked it up but do I need to mix anything with the borax? Will it damage the wood? Can ease elaborate on this? I know your all probably shaking your heads by now but thanks in advance
 
Back
Top