walkerized 385

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heffayinthebush

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I've noticed a used walkerized 385 on ebay...., just wondering how it compares to my 066 magnum. Any comparison, or just pipe dreams.
 
Hi Rolf, although a Walkers saw is ok for most of us, you can get more hp from the builders here. I have an 385KD that is about 38hp. I wouldnt pay to much on ebay for a used 385. Just buy a new one or buy mine for a paltry 1100 U.S. delivered personally by me to your doorstep. If you liked the 357 by Walkers, you will love the 385 KD, DG, DD, PP, JD, WJ.
John
 
A walkerized 385 will whoop your 066, as long as the saw has been taken care of. Probably around 8hp. Dont let Gypo fool you. Until he came to AS, we about lynched him because he would not shut up about how much he loved his Walkerized 372 and 357. Now they are "ok" ;)
 
I have since Doctorized my Walkerized, but that was then, this is now. I can still cut circles around 10 woodticks with any saw of their choice with my 026 JD in a woodtick boogie though, and why wouldnt I be able to? I still cant differentiate between any of my saws, because they are all pretty fast no matter how long it takes.
 
Originally posted by Gypo Logger
Hi Rolf, although a Walkers saw is ok for most of us, you can get more hp from the builders here. I have an 385KD that is about 38hp.
John

:confused: Give to the guy straight!!! Whew!
 
That prolly wasn't a kidneystone, but part of a piston ring. Also, you can't compare your 357 to any other saw fairly. After all, how many saws out there have 275 degrees of exhaust duration, let alone an exhaust port that runs more than 180 degrees around the cylinder circumference, literally becoming one with the transfers? I'm having JDHotsaw do me up a 357 wherein he promises me that with 360 degrees of exhaust duration, I'll clean your clock. We'll see who has the fastest saw then, Robert. More is always better.
 
Thats all fine Doug but the new saw I am working on has a liberal dose of JB weld in the top of the exhuast and intake ports (much like my 1st 088) enabling me to lower my ports about 1 1/2". I then modify the piston by drilling a 3/4" hole just above the connecting rod. By doing this my piston is doing double the work due to the fact that it is traveling by the intake and exhuast ports twice as many times as your normal saw. Also I was able to lighten the piston even more by grinding the tranfer ports into the piston itself instead of the cylinder wall. Well thats enough secrets for now. Franks Planks Brother
 
Another trick that may have been overlooked is to put a couple of ball bearings in the jug, then run the saw, this in essence, shock peens the piston head and creates mini finger ports of sorts, thus creating a larger displacement, and inadvertantly removes pesky carbon buildup.
Frank's Planks
 
Interesting play on words, John, namely "shock" peening versus the commonly used term "shot" peening. Your choice of the former term here is however, most appropriate.
 

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