Water mist cooling to help prolong life of rings and pistion life when milling ideas.

[Assembler]

Unless the water content applied was little enough so it was evaporating off and controlled to just being applied to the cylinder in a manner it would work that way, but I agree with the statement above. It will eventually saturate your filter and creep into the cylinder.

This is a important point as one should move the carburetor further away from the crankcase of the saw and make sure that no water is even close to the intake area of the saw. This of course will not work well on a smaller size saw. This will work much better on a big saw that one would use for milling type of cutting.

 

[Tobystihl]

I don't believe you will get uniform cooling using water mist, resulting in hot spots in the cylinder structure, the expansion rates of aluminium are very rapid and variations will result in an out of round cylinder...

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I've used water mist to raise the octane rating on a high performance V8.

 

[Assembler]

I don't believe you will get uniform cooling using water mist, resulting in hot spots in the cylinder structure, the expansion rates of aluminium are very rapid and variations will result in an out of round cylinder...

Very good point however this also happens with air as well as the back side is going to be hotter then the front where the air first hits and the different surface flow rates that usually happen as well. Thus no air cooled engine is going to be completely round in shape after just a few minutes. The well lubercated rings are designed to account for much of the out of round shape however not all as hot spots can show up on the rings and piston edges. If the heat can not be transferred fast enough then damage will be done. Reducing the over all temperture of all of the aluminum upper cylinder area will go a long ways in stopping this type of damage.
If the general temperature of all the upper aluminum (steel sleeve in my saw) is reduced by at least a 100 degrees this will go a long ways in cooling the entire saw. Tests will give a better idea what is going on over the entire 8 minuites of one cut to help show reduced results in real time.

 

[Assembler]

I've used water mist to raise the octane rating on a high performance V8.

Unlocking water (H 2 O) can have this effect. However I will not be putting water through the saw. I will be removing more BTU's then just factory air cooling can do thus reducing the upper cylinder temperature a 100 degrees is the goal.
The reason for this is no air cooled saw is designed to be cooled well enough over say a 8 minute long hard cut and the ring and top of the piston edges can be damaged all depending on a number of factors cooling being the main issue.

 

[Assembler]

Unlocking water (H 2 O) can have this effect. However I will not be putting water through the saw. I will be removing more BTU's then just factory air cooling can do thus reducing the upper cylinder temperature a 100 degrees is the goal.
The reason for this is no air cooled saw is designed to be cooled well enough over say a 8 minute long hard cut and the ring and top of the piston edges can be damaged all depending on a number of factors cooling being the main issue.

For a very low cost of a after market water tank mounted on top of the mill and a hose connected to a windshield pump to spray a water flow mist on the upper cylinder area of the saw should make more difference then any costly engine parts modification with a very good reduction in piston and ring edge temperature lowering.in real time over the 8 minutes of cutting time. After all I will be cutting at times logs up to 48" wide and heat build up is a real issue.

 

[Blackbruin]

I just dont mill in the sun and when it's awful hot. Let saw sit in between cuts, run quality synthetic oil 32 or 24 to one in good non ethanol gas...mod the muffler and at least have it ported to maximize factory intake and exhaust...
If you would have to run a high velocity fan. It's an air cooled engine, that's why it has fins....

 

[Assembler]

I just dont mill in the sun and when it's awful hot. Let saw sit in between cuts, run quality synthetic oil 32 or 24 to one in good non ethanol gas...mod the muffler and at least have it ported to maximize factory intake and exhaust...
If you would have to run a high velocity fan. It's an air cooled engine, that's why it has fins....

I like your tip about the oil and thanks. Making the saw breath better is a good idea up to a point and will help reduce the load on the engine. Sawing below around 80 - 85 degrees will also help some. The ethanol gas does not effect the temps that much however will eat away any gaskets etc. where the fuel flows.
The issue is still there when working the saw harder or more of a load as far as the rings and edges of the piston not being able to transfer away the heat BTU's fast enough because of the cylinder temps. especially away from any hot spots. I will be sawing big wood from time to time thus about as big of a load as you can get on the saw engine in general. Getting a temp gauge does no good to help lower the hot spots in time to reduce the temps.

 

[sawfun]

Water injection mixed with methanol worked well for a buddy of mine, but the naturally aspirated car had a high static compression ratio. I wouldn't recommend it for most 2 cycle applications. As has been said, let the saw idle and use a small fan if you must, and porting, especially the muffler will all help.i don't think I would delete the gasket or have the cylinder turned down if heat is an issue. Otherwise run Methanol as it burns much cooler than gasoline, it also needs to burn a lot more volume. Good luck.

 

[Assembler]

Water injection mixed with methanol worked well for a buddy of mine, but the naturally aspirated car had a high static compression ratio. I wouldn't recommend it for most 2 cycle applications. As has been said, let the saw idle and use a small fan if you must, and porting, especially the muffler will all help.i don't think I would delete the gasket or have the cylinder turned down if heat is an issue. Otherwise run Methanol as it burns much cooler than gasoline, it also needs to burn a lot more volume. Good luck.

I agree with you big time on reducing some of the restriction of the muffler as this will reduce the load of the engine. Since I will be doing this to a 1970 - 1971 saw it is almost q straight pipe from the factory as is. Yea straight methanol is a lot cooler to burn and would be great for a hot saw use. Thanks