Im building a mobile welding cart and need to fab a top. What thickness or gauge steel is best to weld on top of? I use a small stick welder and flux core.
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
Welding
- Thread starter Jasonrkba
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JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
1/4" if you can afford it. If not - as thick as you can afford.
Plate will be 24in x 36in so pretty small. I am using a pressure washer cart. I plan on buying some seamless tubing to build an adjustable (up and down) top. Here is what I have so far. I've just started. I may put my little stick welder on there if it will fit with the flux core. Im a novice but really enjoy fabrication. I have to buy a tig torch and argon tank for the little green guy below.
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I would use 3/16's since its going to be moveable and weight is a factor, i would also put locking front wheels on the cart as well and get a magnetic ground.
I have locking wheels on it but hadn't thought about the ground. I'll definitely look into that.
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
copen
ArboristSite Member
This is good advice if it will be used as a table. You really don't want it flexing. I made one out of a heavy grate that worked out well, but it had nothing below it but frame and casters. If it's just gonna hold stuff, slag hammer, gloves, vice grips etc., it probably won't matter much.
11 gauge ( 1/8") will work just fine. Did a lot of my small fab work on a 4x3 sheet. Be sure when you build your table you should support the middle of the table and around so you can leave the sheet loose on the table so the top can be moved around or took off.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
I built mine using 1/8" plate. The flux core welder is light enough to pick up with one hand. The stick welder I assume will be on a shelf under it. If you find after you build it that it flexes more than you like just weld a piece of angle under the part that moves. Save your money for other things.
Bed frames and bicycle frames.
Bed frames and bicycle frames.
My production table was 3/16" 10' x 20', plate was braced and welded down and everything leveled. When laying up big trailers and such you welded by walking on the top of the table to do the welding. All you had to do is ground the table. Also a skeleton table is handy, good reason to leave the top loose on your table. Weld you up different jigs for different angles you plan to use so you won't have to waste time again and again setting angles. Buy a chop saw, large band saw if you can, does much better and cleaner cuts than a torch on small production and saves a lot of time cleaning up cuts for welding.
JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
It’s not so much flexing under weight as it is the distortion from the heat. Once the surface is warped it’s pretty useless.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
The OP is building a cart for his welders and not a table. Good advice about a welding table though.
user 172763
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See if you have a metal scrap yard somewhere close to you. You can buy a bunch of stuff at much lower prices. You can also buy some scrap metal to start practicing on, figuring out your heat and wire setting for different thicknesses of metal. Aluminum and stainless are different little beast to weld. If that cart is ever going over anything but cement flooring, I would suggest bigger wheels in front, or you won't be able to move it. There's also a Welder's Handbook, I have one somewhere from about 20 years ago. If I can find it I will give you the author's name. It was very informative for someone starting out as well as people who already know how to weld.
JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
Sorry this did not sound like a welder cart but more of a portable welding table. If that’s the case then disregard my suggestion. Anything will hold a small welder.
My idea is tubes inside of tubes to slide up and down. Perfectly drilled holes to pin the table top level. The top will have an angle iron frame under it.
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
If he's building a cart for his welder he can use almost anything but he doesn't need to integrate it with a welding table. Welding can be a messy business what with all the smoke and dust. I always located my small Mig or my portable feed Mig away from the welding process and this helps keep the cable without kinks. It help keep grinding dust and weld spatter away from the unit. Also welders have to circulate air to stay cool , any dust in the air will get sucked up and stick on the interior of the welder. I made filters for my welders to catch the dust, some of my Migs are 42 years old and still weld as good as any new ones.
A LOT depends on where your steel supplier gets the steel.
Some steel that is 3/16" or under in the size the OP wants could be curved so bad, the center sticks up 2 inches.
This is a common problem in computerized punch presses.
We used to make 3/16" steel doors,, 3 feet x 7 feet. ONLY one supplier could supply steel flat enough to go into the press to add the holes.
You REALLY need to check the steel before agreeing to buy the piece.
The steel supplier may even know which thickness of steel they have that is "flat".
Some steel that is 3/16" or under in the size the OP wants could be curved so bad, the center sticks up 2 inches.
This is a common problem in computerized punch presses.
We used to make 3/16" steel doors,, 3 feet x 7 feet. ONLY one supplier could supply steel flat enough to go into the press to add the holes.
You REALLY need to check the steel before agreeing to buy the piece.
The steel supplier may even know which thickness of steel they have that is "flat".
