Well I only had one saw...

[senechal]

After chunking down as much as I felt it was worth, I started looking at the base and the hamster wheel started to turn.
The details: Red Maple grown into a sun room at my Mom's cottage.
The tools: 1/2" rigging line with a 3:1, and a MS192 with 14" bar.

 

[gr8scott72]

After chunking down as much as I felt it was worth, I started looking at the base and the hamster wheel started to turn.
The details: Red Maple grown into a sun room at my Mom's cottage.
The tools: 1/2" rigging line with a 3:1, and a MS192 with 14" bar.

Wow!

That seems like a lot of work with that little saw. Good job.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I think I just $hit myself.:yourock:

Shout out to the 192.

 

[treemandan]

well it looks like that's all you needed. What is it called when you whittle down the trunk like that to accomodate the saw to make the notch?

 

[Nailsbeats]

well it looks like that's all you needed. What is it called when you whittle down the trunk like that to accomodate the saw to make the notch?

Time consuming. That's what it's called around here, probably different other places.

 

[toddstreeservic]

well it looks like that's all you needed. What is it called when you whittle down the trunk like that to accomodate the saw to make the notch?

chainsaw carving. Except usually it turns into a bear or eagle or something.

 

[treemandan]

Time consuming. That's what it's called around here, probably different other places.

I'm sorry. I was asking the profesionals that question, not some hack who has no idea how cold his beer is
I do it cause I only has the 44's. I blew my wad allready buying tons of other stuff last month but the thought of getting a bigger saw keeps me up at night.
That saw is going to have to be on hold cause whatever money I got coming in is going to stay IN for a little longer than the last 10 grand.
You shuld have seen the crap I pulled out my ass when all I had was a top handled homelite from 1970 and a craftsman 2.4 cid and a 50 feet of rock rope and a three strand from home depot and a saddle made from true blue.
ya gotta do what you gotta do.
You guys keep that 3120 cutting straight? Any problems at the bar?

 

[Nailsbeats]

Yeah she cuts good. That Cannon bar is a niece piece. Spendy, but you don't want to have to buy more 60" bars everyday. Here in Wisconsin, we'll drink beer piss warm, makes us no nevermind.

 

[treemandan]

Yeah she cuts good. That Cannon bar is a niece piece. Spendy, but you don't want to have to buy more 60" bars everyday. Here in Wisconsin, we'll drink beer piss warm, makes us no nevermind.

My biggest fear of big bar saws is , well, maintaining the bar.
Do you find that on bucking cuts the cut wants to go with the weight of the saw? How about flush cuts? Bowing? Getting oil to the end.
All the big saws I ran were someone else's AND they ALL were quite F'ed up.
You know I have seen a lot of "Stihl" guys packing the 3120.

 

[treemandan]

Actually everytime I saw someone bust out with and 88 or something my heart would drop. Usually by the time they were done messing around trying to get to cut staight I would have it down with the 44.
On horizontal cutting the bar seemed to bow before it met the wood and just screwed everything up.
Once or twice I saw them cut good but the bar and chain was new.

 

[pdqdl]

I have a 3120 with a 24", a 36", and 50" bar. All in .404 guage, full comp chain. It's my favorite saw, but you don't dare run it without the earplugs handy. A complete thrill to use when you have it with the 24" bar chopping up a smaller tree on the ground. Not really any fun at all to use when you are 20' up on a huge oak dropping 4' diameter log chunks.

Yes, the big bar has a greater tendency to curve in a cut, and I think it is a matter of ratios. The height of the 50" bar is not much different than for any other bar, but it is much longer. So it's height:length is a much smaller number than for almost any other saw. Imagine how big a curve you could put in a cut if your 24" bar was only 1/2 as tall as it is now?

Bowing on the cut has never been a problem for me, but it does tend to throw the chain very quickly if you are a bit loose on the chain and then gun the throttle or drop it into the wood while you are horizontal. Start the cut way out on the tip of the bar, then walk it forward on the trunk until you are up to the dogs, then dig in and cut a big swath! That way the weight of the bar is always suspended by the tree, and the chain doesn't get any chances to jump out of the groove.

My biggest problem with the big bar is that it seems to suffer from more wear on the chain and the bar than other situations (smaller saw or shorter chain). I have always presumed that is because it has a LOT more horsepower going into a bigger load than other saws.

Strangely: the big bar often gets wedged in the cut by sawdust. You need to be careful to keep reaming the horizontal cuts to keep the chips clear, otherwise you often develop a tight pack of chips between the bar and the wood right at the tip. Once trapped, it is dam difficult to get unstuck. I have always supposed that it is because of the large volume of chips that the saw makes in the cut.

I've had it since 1996, and it has always run great, although the bar studs get too much stress on them when you use the big bar. The holes in the crankcase have wallowed out now so that the bar studs fall into the oil tank if you are not completely carefull to prevent it. I would mushroom/oval/knurl the studs, but Husqy makes them too hard. Besides, getting too rough with the studs will just continue to enlarge the holes in the crankcase.