What do I buy?

[JohnS]

I am driving myself wild with a mental war between saws.

Here the deciding points I am going over and over:

I don't use saws for a living

I want a larger saw that I can try some light milling with and have for firewood and general clearing

I probably like Husqvarna better because the Air Injection really does work and in rebuilding my 359 recently they seem like simple saws to work on.

Stihl 460 seems to strike a perfect spot for what I want at 76.6cc but it's not a Husqvarna. However, 372XP is a little small for any milling it seems and 385XP is probably overkill for clearing and firewood here in NJ and PA.

I want to buy at least on more saw before this new EPA crap gets to the saws. I have a landscape business and can tell you that when Redmax started the Strato Charged BS with the Blowers, Edgers etc that I run they where useless. I got a season at best out of tools that used to still be running when every other piece was worn out. Maybe this stuff will be different but I'd rather have to ask about it that be the test monkey.

I have a 260, the 359 and virtual ownership of a 262XP.

I have gotten this CAD condition after playing with(porting and Muff modding) the 359, but I am not made of money. I am actively looking for burnt saws to refurbish because my 359 was declared dead and I am quite tickled with the way it runs after spending $80 or so and a days work. Not many around that aren't busted up on the outside.

I like Husky more, but not fool enough to Stihl isn't a solid machine. I just can't deny that the 359 airbox is squeeky clean when the 260 is already loaded up. All in though, I think the 460 is making a strong argument.

Forgive this womanlike rambling post, but who would do what in my shoes.

JJS

 

[2000ssm6]

For milling I'd want a monster, say a MS660 or a 395xp...

 

[blsnelling]

372XPW is 75cc.

 

[computeruser]

Any of the saws you mention would be great for larger firewood and for general tree work. So define "light milling." That answer will decide the saw issue for you.

 

[JohnS]

Light Milling

Probably starting with a trunk around 2 feet in diameter give or take a little. Wouldn't want anything finished much over 12". So maybe I square it and then split it into two smaller and then start making boards. That's what I picture doing - but what's probably clear to all is that I never did it.

 

[JONSEREDFAN6069]

like brad said 372xpw, or a dolmar 7900. thats a very good saw.

 

[blsnelling]

Or a muffler modded 460. These saws would be a minimum.

 

[computeruser]

2' is 90cc+ territory. Even then, it's a workout for the saw.

(caseyforrest's pics, not mine)

 

[JohnS]

So a 372 would do it

With some modding ya think the 372 would get me into it. I would say that if milling works out for me then I'll just hunt for a monster and rebuild it.

 

[JONSEREDFAN6069]

i've never done any milling or used the lumber, does it warp when drying? sorry to get off topic here.

 

[Bushman_269]

Jred 2188 or Husky 390XP
Husky 395XP
Stihl MS460, 650 or 660
Dolmar 7900

Any of the above should do what you want. It all comes down to what color and size you want and the budget you are comfortable with. You may even want to consider finding a good used 3120.

 

[blsnelling]

i've never done any milling or used the lumber, does it warp when drying? sorry to get off topic here.

We have a milling room on the forum here. I don't know much about it. You'll probably have better luck over there.

 

[excess650]

I want a larger saw that I can try some light milling with and have for firewood and general clearing

I probably like Husqvarna better because the Air Injection really does work and in rebuilding my 359 recently they seem like simple saws to work on.

Stihl 460 seems to strike a perfect spot for what I want at 76.6cc but it's not a Husqvarna. However, 372XP is a little small for any milling it seems and 385XP is probably overkill for clearing and firewood here in NJ and PA.


I like Husky more, but not fool enough to Stihl isn't a solid machine. I
Forgive this womanlike rambling post, but who would do what in my shoes.

JJS

Probably starting with a trunk around 2 feet in diameter give or take a little. Wouldn't want anything finished much over 12". So maybe I square it and then split it into two smaller and then start making boards. That's what I picture doing - but what's probably clear to all is that I never did it.
JJS[/QUOTE]

I can tell you that milling is work, and hard on the saw. A 24" log will yield (roughly) a 17" square cant(70%). A 24" Alaskan will allow for a 22" maximum width cut with a 28" bar, so won't clear the sides of a 24" log. Options here would be to roll the log 90* after the first cut and and make a perpendicular cut, or use a Granberg Mini Mill to make your side cuts from surfact cut on top. The Mini Mill is the way to go, IMO, as it saves rolling the log. This is important if you're working by yourself.

A 30" Alaskan will make a 28" cut with a 36" bar, and a 36" 34" with 42" bar. Unless you would/could order longer vertical sections for the Alaskan, you're limited to about 14" depth of cut. It would be awkward to cut with one hand that much higher than the other. I've cut 10.5", and it was OK.

My first attempt at milling was with a 272xp with 28" bar, 24" Alaskan, and cut a 10.5" square cant from dead, dry hemlock. It worked the saw hard. My 066 with big bore kit (99cc) cut the same wood much more quickly, and used much less fuel. I've since milled up to 30" wide slabs from mostly dry, white oak with the 066BB. I cut some dry Douglas Fir(?) slabs yesterday up to 26" wide, 10' long, and it was no picnic.

I would consider a Stihl 460 or Husky 385xp to be minimum saws for milling. A 650, 660, 390xp or 395xp would be better. The 395xp is reputed to have more grunt than a stock 660, bit is heavier. When milling, the powerhead weight is virtually meaningless, but when bucking or felling, it is notiecable.

 

[excess650]

With some modding ya think the 372 would get me into it. I would say that if milling works out for me then I'll just hunt for a monster and rebuild it.

Forget the 372 for milling. Its forte is speed and finesse, not torque.

There is or was a Husky 2100 in the Tradin' Post on AS for $300. You'll pay nearly that much for a 660 or 066 needing a top end. It'll cost that much for an OEM top end for a 660/066 or other big saw.

 

[JohnS]

My first attempt at milling was with a 272xp with 28" bar, 24" Alaskan, and cut a 10.5" square cant from dead, dry hemlock. It worked the saw hard. My 066 with big bore kit (99cc) cut the same wood much more quickly, and used much less fuel. I've since milled up to 30" wide slabs from mostly dry, white oak with the 066BB. I cut some dry Douglas Fir(?) slabs yesterday up to 26" wide, 10' long, and it was no picnic.

I would consider a Stihl 460 or Husky 385xp to be minimum saws for milling. A 650, 660, 390xp or 395xp would be better. The 395xp is reputed to have more grunt than a stock 660, bit is heavier. When milling, the powerhead weight is virtually meaningless, but when bucking or felling, it is notiecable.[/QUOTE]

As someone who has milled with both brands - am I making more of the Air Injection benefit than I should be. Like I said it's clear they're both quality saws. One downside to the Husky is I have nobody I'd want to deal with long term around me. Got to be 100 Stihl guys in every direction. Seems like parts are more money for the Husky as well.

 

[excess650]

As someone who has milled with both brands - am I making more of the Air Injection benefit than I should be. Like I said it's clear they're both quality saws. One downside to the Husky is I have nobody I'd want to deal with long term around me. Got to be 100 Stihl guys in every direction. Seems like parts are more money for the Husky as well.[/QUOTE]

The filters on the big Stihls work just fine. The Husky 3120 doesn't have Air Injection either.

 

[weimedog]

Probably starting with a trunk around 2 feet in diameter give or take a little. Wouldn't want anything finished much over 12". So maybe I square it and then split it into two smaller and then start making boards. That's what I picture doing - but what's probably clear to all is that I never did it.

24" inch hard wood needs power. Under 20inch and a "normal" saw like a 372 would be fine..you get into the 2ft range...think displacement. If your talking pine trees or some other soft wood thats a different story. Look at my avatar..that 24-32 inch hard "sugar" maple. My little Husqvarna 365 wouldn't have a prayer.

Since your thinking CAD...think two saws. A firewood modern/new saw and another for milling. Find some big displacement older saw to mill with. Milling is tough on saws anyway so find something "expendable". I run a McCulloch 797, 123cc of power & torque with a 36inch bar & 3/8 full skip chisle chain to start with...it was satisfactory. That entire setup cost me around $600 bucks ready to mill. Going to "ripping" chain helped as well...which brings up another issue. A saw setup for milling with the chain ground right for milling, isn't one you want to waste on firewood.