What is the smallest chainsaw I can use for Milling

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ms0099rg

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I would like to try mill with the timber jig. My question is what is small/cheapest saw I can use? I have a friend of a friend selling 2 saws. MS290 Stihl and Stihl 036.

Again let me thank you for your time.

Matt
 
I would like to try mill with the timber jig. My question is what is small/cheapest saw I can use? I have a friend of a friend selling 2 saws. MS290 Stihl and Stihl 036.

Again let me thank you for your time.

Matt

You could probably get by, though frustratingly slowly, with either of those. The general recommendation is 70cc or more, the bigger the better. I reckon a small saw milling is better than not milling at all.
 
I would like to try mill with the timber jig. My question is what is small/cheapest saw I can use? I have a friend of a friend selling 2 saws. MS290 Stihl and Stihl 036.

Again let me thank you for your time.

Matt

This is a how long is a piece of string question.
My questions back to you are
1) how wide a log
2) how long of a continuous cut
3) what type of wood
4) how often do you want to cut?

Working in reverse
With a 290 at 55cc? and the 036 at 62 cc with a 20" bar a well sharpened chain and all the planets aligned I would guess 6 ft long softwoods logs up to about 14- 15" wide.
The 036 could probably cut all day but the 290 I would treat a bit more carefully.

I've used a 290 as a firewood saw for a while - I really like that saw.
 
Thanks again

My questions back to you are
1) how wide a log... not what ever I can get my hands on 20in?
2) how long of a continuous cut... 8 to 10 feet
3) what type of wood..... mostly hard wood Oak and Walnut.
4) how often do you want to cut? ....Weekend warrior

I just dont want to spend a ton on saw.

044 price is ?
 
Thanks again

My questions back to you are
1) how wide a log... not what ever I can get my hands on 20in?
2) how long of a continuous cut... 8 to 10 feet
3) what type of wood..... mostly hard wood Oak and Walnut.
4) how often do you want to cut? ....Weekend warrior

I just dont want to spend a ton on saw.

044 price is ?

you can get an 044 for anywhere from 250 to 400-500 400-500 would have to be mint sometimes if you find a really good deal ive seen as low as 100 for a running 044 but that is really rare 038 magnum same size engine more tourquey a little cheaper cause there a little older and heavier:msp_biggrin:
 
Thanks again

My questions back to you are
1) how wide a log... not what ever I can get my hands on 20in?
2) how long of a continuous cut... 8 to 10 feet
3) what type of wood..... mostly hard wood Oak and Walnut.
4) how often do you want to cut? ....Weekend warrior

In that case neither of those saws is appropriate.
As has already been suggested the minimum I would look at is a 70cc saw.
 
I know a case where a Poulan 4620 (46 cc, 20 inch bar) something-or-other, purchased reconditioned, was used for milling with a Granberg small-log mill attachment to mill the trunks of two red maples (Acer rubrum) that were about 20 inches in diameter and about 8 to 9 feet long. At maximum width, the bar length was exceeded. The saw did not burn up; it is still working. That was the start.

Now use a Husqvarna 394XP. (94 cc, 42 inch bar)

Purchase price on the Poulan was either $139 or$149, or maybe it was $129 plus tax. Small and cheap for a start, but it did not stay that way.

Your mileage may vary.

abbott295
 
I know a case where a Poulan 4620 (46 cc, 20 inch bar) something-or-other, purchased reconditioned, was used for milling with a Granberg small-log mill attachment to mill the trunks of two red maples (Acer rubrum) that were about 20 inches in diameter and about 8 to 9 feet long. At maximum width, the bar length was exceeded. The saw did not burn up; it is still working. That was the start. Now use a Husqvarna 394XP. (94 cc, 42 inch bar) Purchase price on the Poulan was either $139 or$149, or maybe it was $129 plus tax. Small and cheap for a start, but it did not stay that way.

There are always exceptions to general recommendations especially if the operator knows what they are doing. Along the same lines there's also the Souther Chentlman a few years back that bought the big saw with the long bar and cooked the saw on the first log. Milling is like making good espresso coffee - there are 3 major input factors, the machine (sawmill), the operator, and a natural product (log). All three need to cooperate to produce quality lumber.
 
[video=youtube;K--HTUhYpFk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K--HTUhYpFk[/video]up to a 28 inch bar the ms460 works pretty good for me so far ,it cuts up to 20 inch slabs ok 12 ft long , this is cedar ,fir works it a little harder in the cut
 
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I started with a 62CC John Deere (Efco rebranded) and a 28" bar milling mostly 14" wide red maple wood, 8 to 10 feet long. It wasn't quick and I had to touch up the chain almost every pass.

18" wood bogged it down too much for reliable cut.

So it's doable, I didn't cook the saw and still use it for "normal" cutting.

But when one can pick up a mint 088 WITH a Mark III and case for $450 why sweat with the small stuff :)
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No arguing here, BobL. It was an exception, exceptionally lucky; the operator did not know what he was doing when he started. And it was slow.

MS0099rg: Get the biggest saw you can find for the money you have to spend.

abbott295
 
Maybe you are better off buying what you need from Lowes. I understand being on a tight budget but you will not be happy with anything that frustrates you when trying to do work.
 
Wood species and average log dia has a lot to determine what you should shoot for as far as saw size. I have done a lot of milling (mostly Douglas fir) with my 372XP and a Granberg Alaskan III (36") with a 32" bar and picco ripping chain. You can go with a little less cc's and still be very effective using the small kerf ripping chain. It made a big difference on my milling speed when I switched. I started with 3/8" chain. Of course for the really big logs I have an 075, but for most of my milling (up to 25" of so) the 372 does nicely. Mind you I don't do a lot of slabbing, more dimensional cutting, if you are planning on slabbing and averaging 20" each pass, you want as big a saw as you can find for the $$. My 075 was free(non running), cost me about $40 in parts to get it to milling condition. It had a 36" roller nose on it now. I do a lot of edging with a Mac 10-10 and it does well. I find that having more than one saw already set up to do different tasks, really speeds up milling production. I like used saws that way I can afford more cc's per $$.
 
I have a Husqvarna 45 Special that is a 44cc saw that mills pretty good. The saw is really strongly built and runs excellent. I paid $40 for it and the guy said that the saw wouldn't run and it had lots of scoring on the piston. When I got it home I noticed that the choke lever had been broken off a little. I got a replacement for it and I checked the piston on it, no scoring what-so-ever on it. I put the new choke lever back on and got it all back together and pulled it a few times and it fired right up! Ran amazing and idled really good too. I use it to this day to mill with.
 

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