What Rigging Line to Buy?

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Oldschooljeep48

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So I have been looking into rigging line and was wondering if the type of tree to be rigged makes any diffrence. I know the TYPE of rigging you do will alter your seletion, but if your cutting down some pine, does the sap screw up your line? Can you use a natural crotch on pine? Do you have diffrent lines for diffrent trees?

Thanks in advance!
 
I am partial to 3/4 inch stable braid but I do a lot of heavy rigging. If you are not rigging really big stuff 5/8" would be fine and would be lighter to work with. Most of my light to medium rigging is done with 1/2" 16 stand line (retired climbing line). I'd say I use the 1/2" on about 80% of my lowering. Both of these types of ropes are fine for natural crotch rigging.

Pine sap isn't going to hurt your rope but it can be a sticky mess. The ropes are self cleaning when you use them on another tree (hardwood). I have heard some guys mention cleaning the sap off with acetone but I have never done so personally. If you live in an area where there are a lot of pines sappy ropes just go with the territory. I do machine wash my ropes periodically in a large, front loading machine at the laundromat and hang them up to dry.
 
We also use 3/4" StableBraid and retired 1/2" climbing lines as bull ropes or rigging lines.

I would never consider a harsh chemical like acetone for cleaning ropes!

We have found that leaving the sap in too long will harm the ropes. Depending on the species the sap came from, it can harden on the fibers and make them brittle. It also greatly increases the heat of the rope running through gear or over crotches.

If our climbing or bull lines get too sappy, I usually just soak them in a tub with Woolite or another mild laundry soap. Soaking the lines breaks down the sap pretty well.
 
Good to know. I wanst sure if I should just buy a cheaper 3-strand for the pine.

What about using that 3-strand on a Port-A-Wrap?
 
Im with these guys but not brand paticular. make sure that the exterior of the rope is durable. I prefer a 16 braided jacketed rope. it can be stiffer, harder to tie knots it but bullet proof. to be provocative braided rops are strong but have a tendency to snag:confused:
 
Good to know. I wanst sure if I should just buy a cheaper 3-strand for the pine.

What about using that 3-strand on a Port-A-Wrap?

The PortaWrap tends to induce twist into a rope. 3-strand has an inherrent twist already. Combine those two statements and you'll understand why I have never even tried 3-strand on our Porty. I think it is a recipe for a rats nest of twists.
 
The PortaWrap tends to induce twist into a rope. 3-strand has an inherrent twist already. Combine those two statements and you'll understand why I have never even tried 3-strand on our Porty. I think it is a recipe for a rats nest of twists.

I knew there was a reason other than the "material" of the rope...
 
:agree2: 3 strands nice to grip but she can sure work natural crotch pretty good. Darn neer cut a branch if half if over used on a small one:chainsaw:
 
I have used 3 strand on a porty. I was cutting a ash and it was all I had the crew forgot to load the double braid on the truck it worked ok but I don't think I would do it again. The line was starting to kink up but I just changed ends with each drop and it worked itself out. I usually use double braid for most of my lowering needs and the three strand for the light quick dirty stuff.
 
If you are doing natural crotch, the 3 strand will last longer. Braided rope is better when used with blocks/pulleys. Braided will work on natural crotch, but will eventually end up 'glazing' due to the heat. (More surface contact than 3 strand).

That being said, I prefer Braided, even for natural crotch work. I like the way it feels and the way the knots set. I just retire my ropes more often than I would with 3 strand.

I've never tried 3 strand in a port-a-wrap. Braided all the way.:)
 

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