I went and moved the log around (man I need a tractor - moving a log that way is MUCH easier on the back) and trimmed it up, then got the rails on. Advice welcome on this setup. Luckily I was able to use the natural slope of the hill it was on for decline - couldn't lift even an end of it with the tractor so there was no raising it. Also, it's tall enough that the first few cuts won't be on my knees. Maybe once I get to the halfway point I'll be able to lift an end with the tractor and get something under it.
I'm using 2X4s for rails (as is probably obvious). They are stabilized in three places in the middle. What I spent the most time on and would love thoughts on are the slab divisions I set up. As you can see in a couple of the images, I have my level across my rails and my tape hanging down to the middle of the log. That measurement (from the same place on the same level, sitting on the rails) is 20.75" on both ends of the log. I am almost certain the top end (the rounder end) is set so that the black line is going right across the heart. On the opposite end (the oblong end) it is harder to tell exactly where the heart is, but that's about the middle of the log as far as I can tell. My goal is to get two slabs right off the heart so that if someone wanted to make a ridiculous table then they could book match it. Failing that (which would be silly anyway) you could get two REALLY nice single slab tables out of that set of slabs. Then there should be 2-3 more cuts of that size coming off each side which will also be pretty darn nice. I expect that each slab could easily make a table by itself.
My calculation is that if the rails are 20.75" from those black lines which represent the center on both ends, then when I eventually start a cut there, I should come out in the same place on the other end. Those two planes (the plane of the top of the rails and the one through the log) should be parallel, right? I can't see any way that that is incorrect.
I'll be cutting with an 084 with a 60" GB milling bar running full tooth .404 with the teeth still at the normal cross-cut angle. The chains are new and, taking a page out of bobl's book I am not going to grind them over to 10 degrees until I can do so in the normal course of sharpening. I was able to cut the walnut in the other thread I posted recently with that setup without much difficulty.
Anyway, would love critique on the setup. I won't be able to start making cuts for a couple of weeks at least (probably at least 3, actually) so there is plenty of time to tell me what I am doing incorrectly. Just don't want to mess up this piece of wood. All help is appreciated and don't feel you have to softball it - I can take it.
