old blue xl 12
ArboristSite Lurker
NEW TO THE WOODBURNING THING,WONDERING A GOOD SIZE ROUND PIECE TO PUT IN THE STOVE AND WHERE I SHOULD ADJUST THE DAMPER SO IT BURNS ALLNITE?
WHAT SIZE PEICES FOR ALLNIGHTERS AND DAMPER PLACEMENT ?
- Thread starter old blue xl 12
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
zogger
Tree Freak
Biggest piece you can fit, or two pieces that fit well together, air intake just a crack open, exhaust damper around 1/2 closed. Close the draft too much and it won't burn, just smoulder, no good, throws little heat either. Make sure your all nighter chunk goes down on a good bed of coals. If the stove is too awkward to load with just one big or two medium pieces, use your largest regular chunks and fit them tight together and pack that sucker. Everything else the same. Now that's in a smoke dragon, a more modern stove, etc, will go stove by stove, you
will need to name your make/model and chances are someone here will have experience with it.
will need to name your make/model and chances are someone here will have experience with it.
old blue xl 12
ArboristSite Lurker
MY STOVE IS AN HEARTHSTONE CLYDESDALE MODEL 8491
Experiment. Try different combinations and see which works best. I don't know about everyone else that owns a wood burner, but I know my own stove like the back of my hand. How? I played and experimented with it. I encourage you to try this. The harder the wood, the longer it will burn.
In my boiler, round pieces will last significantly longer than splits of the same size. As zogger said, shove in as many as you can and fill the gaps with little pieces.
cigmaker
ArboristSite Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 138
I think most important thing is having either large round or split dry. Cutting the air back on a newer stove with wet wood leads to nothing but problems. Large rounds take FOREVER to dry.. getting ahead several years on your wood is always a good plan. As stated above a tight load of DRY large splits will give you a longer burn. Looking at your stoves specs you should have no problems getting an overnight burn though.
mga
wandering
shhhhhhhhh!
no need for caps.
no need for caps.
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
I stuff a few large splits 6-8" and a couple of regular size, let it get hot then shut all the way down.
Large pieces bone dry.
Experiment some and you'll get the feel for your stove.
You need dry/seasoned wood of course.....and you'll have to play around and learn your stove.
Some will need more draft than others. Some can be turned way down.
The weather can play a factor too. If it's real windy out you'll find it messes around with your chimney's draft.
My new Drolet HT2000 is ok to turn down overnight with large unsplit rounds as long as I leave some of the stoves damper open and have a good bed of coals.
I can even kick the flue pipe damper back to about 30 degrees closed and it will keep enough chimney draft.
I like to load hardwood splits or rounds with hard knots in them as they will burn up slower.
You need dry/seasoned wood of course.....and you'll have to play around and learn your stove.
Some will need more draft than others. Some can be turned way down.
The weather can play a factor too. If it's real windy out you'll find it messes around with your chimney's draft.
My new Drolet HT2000 is ok to turn down overnight with large unsplit rounds as long as I leave some of the stoves damper open and have a good bed of coals.
I can even kick the flue pipe damper back to about 30 degrees closed and it will keep enough chimney draft.
I like to load hardwood splits or rounds with hard knots in them as they will burn up slower.
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
The three on the bottom are about eight inches, with the one in the middle having a knot in it, this will give eight good hours of heat with the air shut all the way off, oh yea it's also two years seasoned.
Guys try placing the biggest rounds you can fit across the front rather than end in first if you know what I mean. The idea is the air flows in from the front to the back and up and out the flue. If you log is blocking the air flow it will burn slower and not as hot. Its best to put a smaller log in the back and big one at the front as the front log gets the fresh air and burns faster. Give it a go!......
I'm a bit out of place in this forum. Ill be wearing shorts and tee shirt for the next 6 months and no way Ill be putting on my fire here in the southern hemisphere.
I'm a bit out of place in this forum. Ill be wearing shorts and tee shirt for the next 6 months and no way Ill be putting on my fire here in the southern hemisphere.
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why is that?
Maple?
I don't think you're out of place at all, just out of season. We get our cold weather in October until March (Southern Ontario, Canada) each year and you get yours the opposite is all.
Nice hearing from some brothers in burning from down under.
Ironworker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Little one up top, oak and ash for the rest.
Nice!
I love all of those.
I haven't burned a lot of Oak in the last few years, but always have Maple and Ash around.
I have two medium sized Red Oaks to drop that are on my property.
I also need to scavenge a huge old Red Oak that fell a couple years back near me and a few more small ones up the road.
Probably go get them soon and may cut the ones I have first.
They'll put the new saw to the test I'm sure.
I love all of those.
I haven't burned a lot of Oak in the last few years, but always have Maple and Ash around.
I have two medium sized Red Oaks to drop that are on my property.
I also need to scavenge a huge old Red Oak that fell a couple years back near me and a few more small ones up the road.
Probably go get them soon and may cut the ones I have first.
They'll put the new saw to the test I'm sure.
Similar threads
