what the hail is wrong with my echo3450??

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deploy

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Hello my friends. You know it sucks because this saw was/is hardly used. I always use a clean filter and fresh 50:1 fuel ratios. Yes I measure the ratios with devices designed for measuring ml.'s and even do only quarter of a gallon gas fills when I get gas because I know a whole gallon will not even be close to being used. It has been cutting like a butter knife trying to cut a plastic zip tie kinda.. [ Jumping out of the cut line, like the ???? wood is too hard almost for it.... ] The trunks I am testing on are pieces of the old huge tree that was cut about a year and a half or two ago.... ARE chainsaws supposed to be used for cutting old dried tree like this or are they only for soft, wet, fresh tree slicing??? Perhaps when dried these trunks are supposed to be splited only with a wedge or something??

Ok the only thing I can think of that me be related to the problem is that the saw, when I first ever ran it and used it [of course after breaking it in], unfortunately was pinched in a major way. I was trying to do a top to bottom slice on a fallen tree limb 12" or so in dia. It most likely wont happen ever again. [ A floor jack and a stack of two by fours was the only way to lift the load and remove the saw.] Yes and when it got stuck I have to admit I tried to gas it hard once, thinking it would somehow, you know, cut through I guess, lol.

On top of that, new chains and even a new 14" bar and chain combo, of the correct specification, was installed. Yeah the new chains would work ok at first but then start to do nothing 2 tankfuls later, cutting the same type of wood. [Maybe its the wood again, ahh I know you guys will let me know.]

How can I know if the sprocket needs replacment?? Is there any play allowed in regards to the fit of the clutch drum on the bearing on the shaft?? Are stihl chainsaw sprocket bearings plastic or rubber with metal races also?? I couldnt beleive this bearing was a rubber flexible type. It slides left to right about a mm or two at the most, and wiggles a bit. Is this normal? I would imagine that this isnt supposed to be that loose but then again the dude I brought it too said that the drum or sprocket was perfectly normal.. However this sprocket drum part has deep marks where the chain would ride on it. Are the saw chains drive teeth, which ride in the bars groove and allow the chain to be moved by the turning sprocket, supposed to be sharp to the touch??? Im thinking maybe that this could be the reason why the sprocket looks so worn like this. I also should say that I installed a brand new sprocket yesterday but havent tried it yet.

How tight is everyones chain? Mine is one of those low kick back types. And I always used to keep it just a bit loose, nothing that would derrail the chain, but something that can be turned by hand effortlessly..

I could shure use some answers here. This thing used to slice nicely like a warm knife through butter, but ever since the pinch it hasnt cut like it used too. The motor starts on the first pulls and still runs sweet... Doesnt die out or anything. I also try and let the saw do the cutting and dont force it into the cut. But it doesnt do any cutting like I said. I remember I was frustrated and even tried to push a little bit into the cut because it was just sliding in the groove, wide open throttle. Pushing and forcing didnt help one bit.

How do these echo 3450 run for everyone else? Does anyone experience similar problems like this? How do these compare to a stihl ms 180 or even 170?? Seriously, just for occasional use and reliability and effortless cutting. I dislike the way this saw is working for me right now and dislike airfilter setup on this saw.

One last thought. Now last time I tried to cut using a newly sharpened chain, I did observe that as the bar and chain was starting to sink into the cut the bar would start vibrating left to right slightly and quickly but noticeably, like jumping left to right, trying to avoid cutting the line any deeper. Is this significant or normal?

Its nice being here again. Be happy and positive everyone. :angel:
 
is there any chance the wood is so hard that you are taking the cutter back ,without taking the depth gauges down..thats kinda what it sounds like to me.
just a guess
 
deploy said:
Yeah the new chains would work ok at first but then start to do nothing 2 tankfuls later, cutting the same type of wood.
That sounds like you're hitting dirt, rocks, or something else that is dulling your chain. You should also note that dirty wood (as in wood that's been down a while) will have dirt embedded in the bark that will dull your chain more quickly. You should be sharpening before the chain gets so dull that it stops cutting.
deploy said:
However this sprocket drum part has deep marks where the chain would ride on it.
Yes, you definitely need to change sprockets if you have visible wear marks. You might want to go to a dealer and compare with a new sprocket. If it looks different, you need to change. If you change the sprocket though, you must change the chain and preferably the bar at the same time, as a worn sprocket will damage your chain and bar, and when you put the new sprocket on with old chain, it will be damaged shortly.
deploy said:
How tight is everyones chain? Mine is one of those low kick back types. And I always used to keep it just a bit loose, nothing that would derrail the chain, but something that can be turned by hand effortlessly..
That sounds right. Your best place for advice will be a local full-service dealer. He will be able to examine your saw and tell you exactly what is wrong, as well as show you how to improve your sharpening technique. Some things are best shown, not told, and chainsaw maintenance is one of them.
 
I can but I don't want to be mean. deploy needs help -and knows it so I'm glad you are helping. I'm just flabbergasted by the degree of ......Oh nevermind. deploy, keep the chains out of the dirt. Have them sharpened properly or learn to do so yourself. Be careful and have a good time cutting.
 
sounds like a good saw just sounds like you need some hellp with sharpning and cutting also always check the chain is on the sprocket thats how the clutch drum would gets deep marks and chain gets sharp on the drive links. if the saw is hardly used its unlikely the sproket is worn out but its good to start a new chain with a new sproket. ok so if its chain is sharp and depth gauges are set and chain is on the right way chippies should be flying in no time. have fun
 
ok, seriously i think the problem is you're trying to cut a huge log with a tiny saw. these saws are made for trimming/light duty. i have a 3000 echo that i use for building and construction work. it is a good little saw but i wouldn't think about sticking it into a big log. if you are burying the whole bar/nose into a dried out hardwood log, it is gonna jump around on you. these saws just don't have the weight and power to do this kind of cutting. now i got a 18'' on my dual port 066 that i like to go out and cut firewood with for fun, and you can bury the entire bar in a 30'' hardwood log of any species or dryness, and it will chomp right thru no problem. you can also mash the gas and stab it straight in like a sword (bore cut). basically with this much power and speed you can upcut, downcut, crosscut, ripcut, sideways cut, upsidedown cut, bore cut, slant cut, and any other cut i may have missed. not so with a small trimming type saw. put a good sharp chain of the proper pitch and gauge for the saw on, and go cut some 10'' or smaller stuff, and tell us the results. good luck.
 
alright rocky! way to jump on him! maybe he is a beginner, or not as experienced as you. got any video of your early days with a saw? how bout some stories? i know i got a few. i do agree with ya on the dirt thing. could be dirt embedded in the bark. like you said it only takes a second to shank up a good chain. would be nice to know what species of wood and if hes crosscutting or with the grain or across the end grain. i've ripped some blocks (parallel with and across the end grain) with a small saw on occasion and they will jump around on ya. come on Deploy, get in here and defend yerself.
 
Deploy, Do a search with "cutting crooked" for a title. you will get about three hundred posts about topics you should be getting up to speed on. If you are serious about finding out, you will have to familiarise yourself with a fair bit of standard bar, chain and sprocket maintainance and sharpeneng technique. If you need help further let us know. It just is obvious from your questions that you either need some background independant study or there is the suspicion that you might be pulling our leg.
 
What's wrong?

When I read he was waiting for the floor jack and some 2x4's I was thinking he was trolling, not that he doesn't know how to use a hammer and wedge to release the saw from the pinched position it was in. :eek: He doesn't own one or carry one to the job. Dead giveaway he's new at it! If the saw is under powered with a dull chain he's got a problem. I've used the model he is talking about and it is no match for my 335XP Cali or the 346XP both ported. Still with a sharp chain and well versed operator it will do most cuts (including bar burried and plunge) just not fast. If Deploy has been useing it with a dull chain and a pinched bar (there should be a heat mark where the chain burns the bar as it passes through the pinch in the bar, making heat instead of cutting, sucking up half your power) your sprocket is probably shot too. Best to replace all three, bar chain and sprocket. Bigger wood requires a bigger saw (more power and sharp chain) unless you know what you're doing you're just trying to knock yourself out and giving the saw an abuse test it may not recover from. The biggest What's wrong is you're trying to overwork your saw and too inexperienced to know you should have a bigger (more power) saw in big wood. Then there is the problem with not knowing how to use a wedge and hammer to release a pinched saw (I'm waiting for the floor jack and 2x4's). The limb pinching the saw tells you the limb has a load on it and the tree may roll over on you as you cut through or may spring up and hit you as the cut releases the loaded limb. Drop the wedge in the kerf to prevent the pinch in the first place. Use a plastic wedge, you risk running your chain into the wedge. Better plastic than useing an iron one that would take the cutters off the chain if you hit it. Then you really need to know how to sharpen your own chain by hand if you don't carry extra loops with you. It may not be the saw. It might be the operator but get the saw checked out first and put 911 on speed dial until you get some more practice with the saw.
 
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