What wood is desired???

[axlr8]

What kind of wood do you guys look for when milling? Fresh cut timber, or dead fallen seasoned wood??

Im looking at this from a structural standpoint, such as 2x4's, 4x4's....etc

We have a lot of hardwood here, (oak, hickory, some maple,walnut, elm) and then we have some softwood, (cedar, some pines) what do you guys like for this deal???



I got about 50 Bd. FT. of Dried walnut slabs the other day......for free because the family was moving! So, i got anxious, and woke at 330 the next am, and planed them out, squared up a few more, and I LOVED IT! I can see myself getting into milling VERY easily!

 

[Dave Boyt]

AXLR8,

Depends on how it will be used. The pine is easy to cut and nail together, but won't last long exposed to the elements. You'd need to mill & stack it within a couple of weeks, or else blue stain will start in. A little won't hurt, but pine rots pretty quickly. Same with hickory, except for the part about being easy to cut & nail. Eastern red cedar & white oak are much more forgiving. Still good after a year or two on the ground. I've cut walnut that's been on the ground for eight years. Sapwood was rotted off, but the heartwood was outstanding. Sounds like a good score on the walnut. Get yourself a band mill and give it a go. Lots of folks on the forum to get advice from.

 

[Cliffhanger9]

AXLR8,
Depends on how it will be used. The pine is easy to cut and nail together, but won't last long exposed to the elements. You'd need to mill & stack it within a couple of weeks, or else blue stain will start in. A little won't hurt, but pine rots pretty quickly. Same with hickory, except for the part about being easy to cut & nail.

not to hijack the thread but curious what is blue stain?

 

[Dave Boyt]

Blue stain is from a fungus that attacks pine, and some other softwoods. A little of it can be very attractive for some uses, though it is usually considered a defect by commercial producers. It sets in within a week or two in the summer, and is actually an early stage of decay of the wood. To avoid it, mill the wood and have it stacked for air drying with spaces between the rows of wood for air circulation as soon as possible. If you see blue stain in oak or other hardwood, that's a whole 'nother matter. That is caused by metal in the wood (nails, wire, etc.). You want to avoid cutting that! Here's a link to a photo.

http://www.sustainablelumberco.com/...ntain-pine-beetle-blue-stain-pine-mantles.jpg

 

[axlr8]

Id be using it as like structural timber for interior construction, IE, pole shed wall sections, wall frames, workbenches....ETC, I WISH I COULD AFFORD A BAND MILL!!!!! Maybe i should check in with the local sawmill, and ask for a quote???!

 

[Dave Boyt]

Just load 'em up on a trailer & bring them on down to Missouri. I'd be glad to slice them up for you! Seriously, check the sawing and drying directory at woodweb.com. They have 16 custom sawmills listed for MN. Most commercial mills won't deal with small orders. Best of luck. Let us know how it works out. WARNING: working around a small sawmill can be addictive. Once that happens, the only solution is to get one. There's no turning back. Fortunately, there are several great support groups.

 

[Jim Timber]

Give me a few hundred bucks and I'll finish my bandmill.

I'm debating rigging up an alaskan so I can make the wood to build the structure to house my bandsawmill... I've got trees, but no money.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Blue stain is from a fungus that attacks pine, and some other softwoods. A little of it can be very attractive for some uses, though it is usually considered a defect by commercial producers. It sets in within a week or two in the summer, and is actually an early stage of decay of the wood. To avoid it, mill the wood and have it stacked for air drying with spaces between the rows of wood for air circulation as soon as possible. If you see blue stain in oak or other hardwood, that's a whole 'nother matter. That is caused by metal in the wood (nails, wire, etc.). You want to avoid cutting that! Here's a link to a photo.

http://www.sustainablelumberco.com/...ntain-pine-beetle-blue-stain-pine-mantles.jpg

Dave always gives good info in his post, but i just wanted to add that useing DRY STICKERS ("to get the spaces between the rows of wood") is important too, to NOT having blue stain. All of my stickers are 7/8" by 7/8" and i mill them way ahead of time, that way i always have DRY stickers.

SR

 

[Dave Boyt]

Not only dry stickers, but a dry environment. A layer of roofing tin with an air space between it and the top layer of wood to keep the rain off is important. Weigh it down or tie it down so it doesn't blow off. When I cut for people on my portable sawmill, I explain the importance of stickering the wood and keeping it dry, but I'm sure some of it isn't stored properly and warps and/or rots. Expensive firewood!