What's Better: .325 or 3/8" Chain???

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Is one or the other better for general mixed softwood/hardwood firewood cutting purposes? Seems to me like the industry is going over to .325, but is there any reason to use regular 3/8" instead?

I'm trying to standardize on one size chain for all my saws and am thinking of using .325 x .050. But are there good reasons to consider 3/8" chain instead?

Thanks...
 
Originally posted by Mike Maas
325 is better but it's small and is only recommended for saws around 50cc. Bigger saws would tear it up, smaller saws can't pull it efficiantly.

I am talking about saws in the 45-50cc range (I have 3 of them). My milling saw (90cc) uses 3/8".

What makes .325 better on the 50cc size saws? They typically have more cutters...is that it?
 
Mike

I`ve got to question your assumption that bigger saws will tear up .325 pitch. What do you base that on? Awhile back it was mentioned by someone that they were running .325 pitch on an 066, of course maybe you`re right, they are kind of wimpy, LOL.

The thickness of the components which relates to strength, is ???? near identical to 3/8 pitch chain. From what I`ve seen, .325 pitch is primarily for small saws because of the smaller profile tooth which requires less horsepower to pull.

Chip clearance can be more of an issue with .325 chain.

I wouldn`t standardize to .325 unless all of my saws were under 60cc.

Russ
 
It's interesting that a .325 chain worked on an 066, but in day to day use in the woods, I don't think it would hold up as well.

The part of the two chains are not almost identical. Take a tie strap for example, lay a .325 on top of a 3/8 tie strap. Although the guage of the metal is the same, the physical size of the 3/8 is much taller, longer, and the distance from the hole to the nearest outside edge is greater. This equates to more strength, IMO.

You could also compare the little axles(what are those things called anyway?), the 325 is smaller diameter. And the cutters are where the strength difference is most obvious to the naked eye.
 
Mike
I`m going to post a picture as food for your thought. It shows two .325 chains and a 3/8 chain, all made by Oregon. Note the relative size of the components on the middle chain.

I may be mistaken but I believe that Ken Dunn or someone else of similar stature mentioned the use of .325 chain on a race saw. How does that compare to everday use in the field? I dunno, but suspect that the forces placed on it were greater than the average chain sees. Tell me what you think.

Russ
 
I was using the Stihl 23RS .325 chain for timber falling on 24" and 28" bars without any problems. I converted it to square on my Bell chisel grinder and it cut very aggressively and smoothly. A modified 044/MS-440 was running 8 and 9-tooth sprockets no problem. It was a good, lightweight set-up that was easy on your hands and back. I feel some trees upwards of 40" DBH with ease.
 
THe forces on a race chain may or may not be greater. In the field chains a subjected to knots, pinching, derailing, and other things. In a race, it's subjected to more power, but straight grained wood, limited numbers of cuts, and perhaps lower forces due to smaller sharper cutters. I ain't no expert there.

Maybe the 3/8" chain needs to be stronger because of the larger cutter, heavier chain and wider kerf.

I noticed Jacob said "used to" use this set up. Why change? I have thought about using .043 for the small saws for the advantages he mentioned, I was always worried about the strength issues.
 
I don`t know about that .043 chain, looks pretty crappy, but I have been wondering whether or not the .043 drive tangs would be a good basis for a narrowed race chain run on a custom bar. I realize that it`s lo pro so the pitch would be slightly off.

All of the potential hazards you mentioned Mike would definitely take a toll on a chain and the suddeness of impact or pinching might be catastrophic. Good points. I believe that once a guy makes a race chain he may enter many races with it, so a cumulative stress would probably be the issue here. I also believe that the wider kerf of the typical 3/8 chain is the demon that chain builders are chasing because of the wasted hp. Seems obvious doesn`t it? Oregon 95VP is a good example of a narrow kerf at work, that chain cuts pretty well for such a small tooth, also pretty smooth which seems like an indicator of efficiency. What`s my point you say? I don`t know!

Russ
 
I believe .325 is suitable for saws from about 45cc to about 59cc. I like to see the change to 3/8 pitch starting at about 62cc.

One suprise I got was that the 2141 Jonsered (41cc) will actually pull the .325 fairly well.

It all boils down to sizing the amount of wood removed in the cut to the available horsepower.

About 20 years ago Oregon had a 3/8 pitch chain in the 76 marked driver catagory. It had about a .325 sized cutter on 3/8ths pitch; have not seen any of it in a long time. Midsized Echos ran it.

Forty (40)cc and below is mini-chain territory
 
Hey Guys- I was using the set-up before fire season when we were in small timber ( commercial thinnings and whatnot ). During fire season it's better to have big saws and long bars, for falling snags-burning or not, plus a big saw out on fire gets everyone's jaws yapping.
 
Grinding .325

Hello
Can anyone tell me if I can grind .325 chain on my Silvey RS11 without changing anything different from the 3/8.
With a smaller tooth I assume the stone would have to be dressed down thinner? Will the angles come out the same? Also will chisel bit files go too deep on the tooth? On 3/8 I usually like to barely touch the drive link on the opposite side, so it seems like with a smaller tooth the file would be down in the tooth too far.
 
I don't change anything but depth and tooth stop between grinding .325 and 3/8 ths.

I usually dress off the back side of the wheel to keep it from cutting too far down into the chain chassis.

You shouldn't have any problem.
 
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