When to skip....

[MasterBlaster]

Can some 'splain the importance of going from a standard tooth pattern to a semi-skip(or full) when the bars start to get longer?

I've allways gone to a semi-skip when the bar get longer than 28", and full skip at 36"

Am I thinking correct?

 

[MasterBlaster]

But the whole skip has to have it's place, I'm curious when it is needed - 4 foot bar? Longer? Different wood?

I realize the advantage of less teeth to file - thats cool. What interests me is when is it necessary to skip/semi-skip so the chips come out more efficiently....

What bar length?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

It's not as easy as what size bar.
There are many variables, as Brian mentioned. Saw power, chain speed and the size of wood you're cutting are most important. Bar length comes into play, but not much.
If you have a 3 foot bar on an 066, the best cutting speed will depend on the size of the log. A 20 inch log, with this set up, will be cut fastest with full sequsence, a 40 inch log will cut fastest with a full skip. The exact point where it pays to switch one way or another is up to you and your cutting style.
Our three foot bar gets about 4 or 5 cuts on average before it's dull. Sharpening that long thing is the worst job, IMO, so I use the full skip.
The 24 inch bars get one or the other chain, and personally I like the full skip, in spite of lost cutting time. We don't cut firewood, just saw logs and delimbing, so the lost time is minimal. Full comp is a little smoother and faster at the 24" length, the skip is easier to sharpen.
As a side note we run bigger sprokets than most and mod the saws(more variables).
You need to do some timed cut comparisons and decide for yourself.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Thats the response I was looking for - thanks, guys!

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel

I know a guy that runs all odd number Stihl saws except for his 066.


Hey, aren't the odd numbered ones the cheaper, homeowner models?

 

[Stumper]

The authorities on this site say that skip chain is slower in timed cuts. They are great guys who really know their stuff (who am I to argue with he likes of Art Martin). A local cutter who processes about 400 cords of firewood a year and places high in all the local saw competitions insists that skip cuts just as fast. My own experience has been similar. I have not noticed skip chain cutting slower than full comp. It does cause slightly greater vibration than full comp. Chain speed seems to have an effect. I run Skip on my faster saws and 8 pin sprockets. The saws cut fast and sharpen up fast when it come time for that. I run skip tooth on everything 24" and over. I also have been running it on a 20"bar on a Jonsey 590 and a Dolmar 120si. That combination-Dolmar 120si, 8 pin sprocket, Stihl chisel full skip is the fastest cutting saw I've ever run.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I, like Stumper, have not experienced any slower cutting with full skip over full comp. I have been experimenting with full skip on some of my saws. I run .325 full skip - full chisel on a 16" bar on my Shindaiwa 377. The saw came with .325 full comp. I don't think the saw has quite enough a$$ to run full comp. Full skip is another story, wih a ported muffler this saw screams with full skip.

 

[Tony Snyder]

I live in 24" bar country as far as loggers are concerned. They may use some semi skip once in a great while, and no full skip.

Vibration becomes an issue on long bars with full skip in hardwood.

I have never experimented with semi skip on medium displacement saws.